Schister66

I've seen more than one turbo ingest the screen. No thanks...

I would consider this though: Xenocron Tuning: Xenocron Turbo filter #[tf212]

LightningTeg

I would literally have to drive through foot deep water for that to reach the bottom of the filter. If it was an emergency, it would be easy to pull the coupler off. The frame and intercooler block it from rain. I've had my filter in that location for a few years now.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Those are exactly the ones that get ingested

The better ones are from Turbo-Guard, although I'd still never run a screen period. But my domestic constituents have great success with this company for several years, and they invest 3 times as much more on turbochargers than the Honda community at large.

Standard Screen


Turbo-Maxx



Here's the site itself.
Turbo-Guard » Turbo & Supercharger Mesh Screen Filter

Schister66

Its a formed metal screen...how is it going to get ingested exactly? The shitty ones i'm referring to are literally screen (for screen doors) held together with a worm clamp over the inlet.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I know exactly what it is.. From several turbochargers I've had to repair /replace it was from this product. But in all fairness, Xenocron has warned people about how its not a warrantiable item simple because the possibility existed that with the right conditions, this screen could be sucked in.

I'm looking at more material construction overall, not just the screen itself.

Schister66

^^Well, good to know. I'll mark that off my list. I thought it seemed like a reasonable alternative at first.

Wahski

Dammit, I installed an AEM Dry Flow on my GReddy kit to replace the Airinx filter it comes with. Guess I'd better keep an eye on it.


Of course, you can always use a kitchen sink strainer and sell them for $40 a pop like this guy

Trackforged Turbo Screen! - S2KI Honda S2000 Forums

LightningTeg

Oh wow

B and B

iTrader: (3)

"Not to mention a significant aesthetic improvement over a normal filter."

The sewer-pipe coupler looks like poop.



10 hp gain, lol

VegaS10

This is my setup. I ordered it with my kit from GAW. As stated earlier, I live in the country and go down dirt roads on occasion...plus the ef bay is cramped as hell.

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

Going backdoor gave me some flexibility to do cold air.

Wahski

While we're on the subject, is it bad to have the filter right behind the radiator? My turbo kit originally came with a heat shield that goes between the rad and the intake but since I bought the kit used it didn't come with one. Just curious if there noticeable performance loss or risk of damage having the intake blasted by hot air all the time.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

And all the people practically sucking his dick over it

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Having your filter behind the radiator isn't doing you any favors but then again neither is having it in the engine bay.

Think about how hot coolant is at operating temp. Now realize that the air exiting the radiator is nearly that hot. Feeding a turbocharger hot air results in extremely high compressor outlet temps, much hotter than if you fed it near ambient air, now realize that the intercooler has to work even harder to cool that superheated air. Depending on core size that extra heat can easily render an intercooler heatsoaked and useless. All of this leads to higher than ideal IATs.

Same thing applies to a filter within the engine bay. Think about the wave of heat that hits you in the face when you pop the hood after a long drive. That is what the air filter is sucking in.

The colder the air you can supply to the turbocharger the more efficiently it operates and the lower the compressor outlet temps will be.

LightningTeg

Yeah its like going from driving in the summer time to driving in the winter time and how that that affects how a turbo car feels.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I can see the logic behind that shaped screen though.

Being an industrial grade sink strainer means it's made out of a higher grade SS that is slightly thicker. Also since it's one formed piece with a somewhat conical shape means it's not only rigid and likely wouldn't deform under high airflow conditions but it has considerably larger surface area than a flat piece of screen. So even though that screen size occupies a large amount of the available airspace the extra material and shape make up for that.

Plus using a commonly available strainer like that means if you should ever damage or lose one it isn't hard or expensive to replace.

And that isn't a Home Depot rubber clamp. It's a machined nylon ring with an inner groove to positively retain the screen. The theory behind it is solid and is proved by the power gains if the testing was done on the level.

For 99% of the people that live in urban areas with a typical filter inside engine bay setup would rarely be in a situation where any significant amount of dirt, dust, and debris would be ingested by the turbocharger. Now if your filter/intake is located somewhere else or near the ground then that is a different story.

Just remember that whenever you encounter a setup where the air filter is a restriction means that the filter is severely undersized for the application. This mostly happens due to space constraints or not fabricating a proper intake off of the turbocharger.

Like with my builds I'll be building a proper air box to feed the turbocharger that draws air outside the engine bay at the high pressure area in front of the bumper. That design factor along with an adequately sized filter would feed the turbocharger the coldest air possible (boxes will have heat reflective material on every surface exposed to higher than ambient temps) at all speeds with the added benefit of pressurizing the air box at high speeds, without being highly restrictive.

Without the OP giving us measurements of his available space and how the turbocharger is located, along with photos, it's going to be hard to advise on a suitable filter.

LightningTeg

Now that I have deleted my p/s, I definitely have the room to put the filter right off the turbo. But Im thinking its better off where it is for air temps and to help smooth the airflow out before the inlet. Am I wrong in my thinking?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You're absolutely right. It's always a bit better to have some sort of extension to draw in the air, and not the turbo directly from the filter itself. The differences are rather minor, but it does help with the turbocharger to recover spool a bit faster.

If it ain't broke... don't fix it.

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Just wanted to give an update and a part number for future reference for anyone who may need a 4 inch filter.. that being one of the most compatible on the market... Thanks to greg @ go autoworks for the help.

K&N Filter Part number - RU 2510

Now i am needing something to wrap my oil feed line and vacuum line that is closest to the turbo manifold without breaking my bank.. anyone know where i could get a section of something possibly a foot long? Anybody have any extra laying around for sale?

Right now my feed line is about 3.5 inches away from the manifold

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Check out Hose Candy, Jimmy.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Or even Summit has great thermal sleeving.

Heatshield Products HP Thermal Sleeving 204002 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Heatshield Products Fire Shield Sleeves 210040 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

LightningTeg

I'm using the summit brand I believe

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Nice.. it's fairly priced too. Should i put the sleeving around the 1/4 vacuum line and oil feed line as a whole or wrap them separately? or does it even matter?

I figure it would probably be good for that rubber to be away from that metal feed line... what could i use to secure the tubing to keep it from moving.. maybe metal zip ties?

Thanks guys

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

LightningTeg

I wouldnt use zip ties unless you can get them tight enough. I tried that on my vacuum line which runs to the wastegate on the other side and the sleeve slid back and eventually the line collapsed from the heat (1/4 Nylon push-lock DOT air lines though, the insulator slides almost glides on it lol).

I ended up going with small hose clamps and it works much better.