Ok so I got a bone stock f22a4 cb7 and was wondering if you guys though dropping 8k would be a good budget to make this bitch faster than what it is now? Please no smart asses just looking for help just like you first looked for help any is appreciated thanks.

 

in order to see if 8k is enough you have to verify target hp...

 

Tops 400 ish but for shure high three hundreds rite around 370 380

 

i think with 8k you can do more than 400 hp...

you must take ideas here:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/must-see-turbo-mani-h22-accords-c-p-s-compatible-1612858/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/turbo-f22-build-h22-rods-4g63-pistons-low-compression-2546957/

after reading the links, you sould make a market research in order to find the best modifier for your car.

for your power target i would use a GT3582, precision 6152, 6176

of course you will need forged internals, better crank and rod bearings, arp head bolts, 1000 cc injectors, etc

 

Those threads were helpful very helpful thanks man

 

Is 6k good enough to rebuild engine and the rest of the stuff for the set up?

 

its up to you to figure that.

do your market research.

i allready suggested turbochargers with reasonable cost for your application so you
can do a matket research. Also you can buy a bolt-on intercooler and pipe kit for your car (with large intercooler for 400hp min).

for the rest parts let the expert do the sellection (injectors, exhaust manifold, ecu remap, map sensor, etc)

i believe that in the beginning you dont have to change camshafts or any valvetrain..

 

You dont need a new crank (unless doing H22) they are forged from the factory. A stock f22 can usally hold around 250-300whp safely. You can run them like that for awhile with a good tune on it, you will for sure need a cam for it as the peak around 4000 rpms and suck after that. You can get into a nice turbo kit for around 2k-3k and will make you happy. The F22 does like to produce TQ so above 300 you might have to deal with alot of wheel spin.

 

The title of this thread makes no sense at all

and there's no need for an aftermarket crank. most of them are **** anyways and a decent aftermarket forged billet crank will eat most of your budget.

the only reason to run an aftermarket crank is if you are trying to stroke or destroke a motor. hell most of the 1200-1600hp b series drag cars are still using stock cranks.

OEM Honda cranks are forged and nitride coated and are very very strong. Honda put a lot of R&D into the crank, why swap it for a part that was created in a CAD program and has very little research behind it and has lesser manufacturing processes and quality control?

you need to stop waffling back and forth and decide on a solid goal and purpose for your car and do a lot of research as well as talking to professionals before purchasing anything.

if you aren't mechanically inclined and are nervous or unsure about how to do something, or you don't know what you're doing, or know what quality parts to purchase or know what parts are quality (sorry but this is the vibe I get from your posts) then I highly suggest that you take the car to a reputable shop, tell them your goals and budget and let them choose the proper parts for you as well as install them and let them tune the car

this way you know it's done right and using the right parts.

there are a lot of little details when piecing together a turbo setup, a lot of which are often overlooked by first time turbo guys. these over looked details often lead to disaster and very expensive lessons in how not to do things.

plus a lot of first time turbo guys try to buy cheaper/lower quality parts which is also another costly lesson in what not to do as ultimately all of those **** parts have to be replaced with much more expensive quality parts... or those **** parts lead to catastrophic engine component damage which costs even more

when in doubt let the pros do it... there's a reason they're there and they get paid for what they do and that reason is simple... experience

 

The f22a4 has an 85mm bore and a 95mm stroke (google is your friend, so is the search function on this website... use them) you can't "bore" a stock cylinder for a stock sized piston. all you can do is hone the cylinder to give it a fresh crosshatch if using OEM pistons but since you have to pull the motor out and rebuild it I say go on ahead and put forged internals in it. in that case if using an 85mm piston a machine shop would have to hone the cylinders for the proper piston to wall clearance.

Also if you're driving around with rod knock STOP DRIVING THE CAR. By now your crank is definitely fucked, meaning you have to source a new crank in good condition. Honda cranks cannot have the bearing journals turned down. If you keep driving with rod knock the rod will eventually seize on the crank and throw a rod through the motor... meaning you need a whole new bottom end, block and all.

this could also damage the head beyond repair as well as every component in the motor if they aren't already, meaning you need a whole new motor, complete from oil pan to valve cover...

by now the bearing and crank debris has no doubt damaged the oil pump and the cam beyond repair. I say get a complete new motor anyways, it's much cheaper than sourcing individual parts and the potential issues from mixing and matching parts between motors.

is the car 5spd or auto? if it's auto then don't even waste your time.

make a list of what parts (what type of part, bran, etc) you need to reliably build a turbo car and we will tell you if you're even close to knowing what needs to be done

I still say take it to a reputable shop, especially after you've told us you're still driving around with rod knock (and yes I can see the posts you delete)

 

i ve spoken for crank (main) bearings and not for new crank..

i agree that honda crank can be used without even ballancing up to 800hp