bump for love

 

tttt cel's?

 

not to hijack this thead and go completely off topic, but last summer a friend of mine boosted his EG h22 with a greddy D series kit, which he paid 400 for, and we cut the d flange off and i made a flange for it to fit the h22 and welded it on. the turbo was a td04 (thats all i know, it was tiny) and the car pulled like hell right off idle till vtec hit, then fell completely on its face. this year he bought my old t3/t04e 57 trim and the car is a total animal compared to what it was before. the turbo was too small and it choked the car up so bad.

so i guess the moral to my story is its better to be too big rather than too small. my f22/f20b hybrid really liked that 57 trim, as does his h22. i think its a really good DD street turbo. i suggest you look into that one, it will do you good. And if (well not really if but when) you want more, just takes a change of the wastegate spring, or a boost controller.

as for CELs, i have one, the IAC cause i cant find a replacement for my F20B one that the plug got broken off of. with a chipped ecu you wont run into any cel problems if you eliminate the right things.

 

ya the dyno wants me to make sure i come without any

 

I guess I'll chime in, I have an F22B2 Auto boosted using a T3/T4 turbo and log manifold, externally wastegated. Right now I am running around 5lbs and I tune with the Greddy Emanage Blue. My wideband is PLX Devices SMR-AFR combintation and I also have an EGT. The biggest issue I have had so far is heat issues and cooling problems other than before I begin tuning I definetly had knocking issues in the summer time - Lost an engine that way. anyhow as far as CEL's i got none related to the turbo but I suffered a heater sensor circuit malfunction. At your level I reccomend you get a piggy back unit and stay away from the FMU's, and AFC's. I like the emanage becuase its all windows based and easy to use. It costs a bit to get all the extra components. but you can control ignition timing, injector pulsing, etc... Hope this helps.

 

i'm going to steer clear from the piggy backs because i have only heard bad things about them. it's a band-aide fix from the sounds of it. i'm just chipping a p06 with Crome. thanks for the help

 

I dont know about a band-aid but speaking for me i think its a great tool and haven't had any issues with it.

 

lol sorry if that came across offensive at all. i honestly did not mean to sound like a *****. but i was talking to a guy at a local dyno, and he said i could probably get a p06 chipped with Crome and a dyno tune for $400. Sounds like a good deal that i can afford (usually id ont' get that lucky haha). but i think i'm going to take h23isnotabigblock's advice for the t3/t04e 57 trim.

 

I had piggy back engine management (Dastek Unichip) when I was 1st boosted. I encountered loads of problems so have since changed to a P28 with Crome and it been plain sailing ever since.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accord_raffi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol sorry if that came across offensive at all. i honestly did not mean to sound like a *****. but i was talking to a guy at a local dyno, and he said i could probably get a p06 chipped with Crome and a dyno tune for $400. Sounds like a good deal that i can afford (usually id ont' get that lucky haha). but i think i'm going to take h23isnotabigblock's advice for the t3/t04e 57 trim. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you wont regret either of those choices. i too am running a chipped ecu, i got mine from phearable.net, i have yet to get it tuned other than a basemap, but i keep changing my set-up so that doesnt help. i think this one is here to stay, and i will probally just end up getting an ostrich and doing it myself with crome.

i think you will really like the 57 trim, IMHO it is probally one of the best street turbos for out cars. even in my heavy accord it wasnt hard to get it into triple digits, and the rough *** twisty roads i live on it was plenty of power, and tire spin kept becoming an issue too.

now that im going HX35 and mid to high teens in boost its going to be

glad i could be of some assistance!

Eric

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accord2nrz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess I'll chime in, I have an F22B2 Auto boosted using a T3/T4 turbo and log manifold, externally wastegated. Right now I am running around 5lbs and I tune with the Greddy Emanage Blue. My wideband is PLX Devices SMR-AFR combintation and I also have an EGT. The biggest issue I have had so far is heat issues and cooling problems other than before I begin tuning I definetly had knocking issues in the summer time - Lost an engine that way. anyhow as far as CEL's i got none related to the turbo but I suffered a heater sensor circuit malfunction. At your level I reccomend you get a piggy back unit and stay away from the FMU's, and AFC's. I like the emanage becuase its all windows based and easy to use. It costs a bit to get all the extra components. but you can control ignition timing, injector pulsing, etc... Hope this helps. </TD></TR></TABLE>


dont take this the wrong way, but why piggyback and try to change and fight sensors and signals, when for around the same price you can change the actual programming, rather than manipulate it. in my eyes piggybacks are good for cars like supras and neons and stuff like that, which cant be chipped, and have to be band-aided.

even the supra guys have problems with them though, cause of the way they work, they tell the computer the sensors are reading what they actually arent, to get a result. the problem with that is the computer has maps it runs off of when it sees certain criteria, like i know with the afc on certain cars if you ritchen (or lean it)out you also increase timing, becasue of the predefined maps, which is bad in boosted apps. with a chipped ecu it sees the sensors true reading and alters it from there. that is why i (and many others) call it a band-aid, cause it covers up one signal with another. also the pcm is always learning, and as it learns it changes, and a tune that is good one day might be detrimental the next. i have heard that weather change affects them alot. some of the 2jz people have had to unplug O2 sensors and all sorts of stuff, just too much of a head ache for me.

also there are alot of user friendly windows based programs to alter your factory pcm too! (ie: crome)

i just never understood why people would spend all this money band-aiding a honda, just chip your ecu and have it set-up for your set-up, plug the computer in and go.

sorry for post whoring!

Eric


Modified by h23isnotabigblock at 1:23 PM 4/2/2008

 

Thanks man and no need to worry on the post whoring b/c in the end i need every bit of info. i can get.

 

I chose my route for 2 reasons in the beginning, 1 I didnt have a spare ecu laying around to send off and get chipped and 2. I am already experienced with the emanage. If I know how to make it work and its advantages / disadvantages then why not. I have had no issues with it whatsoever to date. I'm not shooting for major HP out of this motor. The one im building in my garage, yea that'll be up there. But 250 - 300 on a daily driver is plenty for me.

 

ok now i'm rethinking things, YET AGAIN! haha. Idk if i want to risk getting a used turbo, which would be the only way i can afford a t3/t04e. so i may just the garrett t3 super 60. right now i don't have high goals. prob sub 200whp. i figure i'll get that with the super 60. it maxes out at like 300hp so even IF i built my motor i would only want power to a max of 250whp. anything more is overkill for me, at least on a honda (no offense to you guys, just my preference).

 

You'll be surprised how close you come to that sub 200 mark. You need to consider your supporting systems, fuel, cooling, etc... But yea i don't reccomend buying a used turbo unless you can inspect it for shaft play and all that jazz.

 

well the closer to 200whp i get, the happier i'll be lol. i'm only expecting like 160whp. i figure i won't risk too much by getting it new. i'm not really sure how honest ppl will be with selling turbos so i don't wanna mess up. especially since idk how well to trust myself to rebuild the turbo if need be. what do you suggest for fueling and cooling? For fuel so far i'm getting precision 440cc. i'm not sure if i want to do a pump and/or fuel rail at all yet. kinda depends on the money situation.

 

Depends on your HP goal, sit down and calculate your fuel requirements for your given HP at 80% injector duty cycle and you'll know what to get.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accord_raffi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well the closer to 200whp i get, the happier i'll be lol. i'm only expecting like 160whp. i figure i won't risk too much by getting it new. i'm not really sure how honest ppl will be with selling turbos so i don't wanna mess up. especially since idk how well to trust myself to rebuild the turbo if need be. what do you suggest for fueling and cooling? For fuel so far i'm getting precision 440cc. i'm not sure if i want to do a pump and/or fuel rail at all yet. kinda depends on the money situation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

for the price of a pump its cheap insurance. the old pump is just that old, and probally not even at stock spec. anymore. i would def do that. for your HP goals a rail is not needed. im running evo 560s right now, and im looking to upgrade due to the fact that they will be maxxed pretty soon when i switch to the hx35. lmk if you might be interested in them.

for the pcm i would highly suggest phearable.net, they are a site sponsor and i have recommended them to 3 people that have been very happy. they will be able to get you a decent basemap and the price is sometimes better than you can find a virgin p28. i was going to sent the p06 i have but it ended up being easier to just buy one already chipped.


good luck!

Eric

 

how much did it cost you through phearable, and what did you chip your ecu with? The dyno told me that Crome would be fine for my goals.

Also, since i have to use an obd1 ecu for my ems, is that going to give me any problems for to pass inspection? i know for obd2 they just plug in the thing into the obd2. since i'll be using an obd1, am i going to be able to pass inspection?


Modified by accord_raffi at 7:06 PM 4/3/2008

 

well i think the inspection might be taken care of now. i guess since i'm using an obd2-1 harness i just have to put the obd2 back in, put the old injectors in, and just stay out of boost

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accord_raffi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much did it cost you through phearable, and what did you chip your ecu with? The dyno told me that Crome would be fine for my goals.Modified by accord_raffi at 7:06 PM 4/3/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont remember the cost, but it was less than 200 shipped to my door, just do on the sponsor forums under forced induction and he always has an add posted. im not sure what program he uses but it dosent matter cause the tuner will make a new chip with crome if need be. like i said before im just going to rock ostrich and say the hell with the chip.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accord_raffi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i think the inspection might be taken care of now. i guess since i'm using an obd2-1 harness i just have to put the obd2 back in, put the old injectors in, and just stay out of boost</TD></TR></TABLE>

i love living in a backass down for this reason. none of that **** to deal with here! no emissions at all, just the basics.

Eric

 

now that i've ordered my manifold and know which cheap *** fmic i want, i'm trying to figure out the what piping to sue. i am planning on a cheap universal kit off of ebay, but i was wondering, can i use my short ram intake as a means to get around the battery? the short ram is 2.75" and i want to use 2.5" piping so if i just get a silicone reducer would my air flow be affected much?


Modified by accord_raffi at 11:23 PM 4/13/2008

 

bump

 

morning bump

 

First off, you are not supposed to 'bump' threads here. You can add info you're learned, but no one-liners like "tttt cels'?"


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accord_raffi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">which would be the only way i can afford a t3/t04e.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That statement tells me right away you are NOT READY FOR A TURBO.

The MOST important thing about turbocharging is MONEY. If you don't have it, you'll fail. For your first turbo car, you'll need 2x the money you project spending. That is because 1st timers are bound to blow a motor/turbo, crash, need a new trans, etc. Nobody's perfect. As you can see far above, the guy who turbo'd his Accord for cheap ended up blowing his motor, then had to rebuild it & sell it. A turbo kit is not as simple or safe as bolting on I/H/E and a FPR.

The third thing is the DSM manifold. It will fit with modding on an F22A1, and whatever uses the same flange. The other F22's move the bolts around, and this would require drilling all new holes, and leaving some headstuds totally unused. Otherwise you need to find someone who makes a "Log" manifold for your car. That will run you $3-400 for a decent manifold. Or you might find a crack-prone ebay version for $150 and enjoy it til the turbo flange falls off.