-[95cxhatch]-

I just bought myself a boosted EK from a friend. The car has been sitting in a garage for about 2yrs now doing nothing.

While in storage the previous owner started to begin a tear down - but stopped after removing the turbo/mani/fuel rail and other misc. components.

The car starts up with no problems but immediately begins to idle around 2k and then surges between 900 and 1700. Once the car is warmed up the idle calms down and usually goes back to normal - sometimes. I can't really point out a condition that makes the car idle normally. It seems very random.

On the highway the car runs perfect but when stopping at a light or pressing in the clutch it immediately goes into a surging idle.

The brake pedal goes to the floor also. The front left line was removed but we bled that caliper several times. If only one line was removed does every caliper need to be bled again?

This is my first boosted car so I am unfamiliar with the dynamics for now.

Engine is b18c1 with inline pro sc61 turbo kit running Hondata s300.

I plan on getting a tun in the near future if I can find a shop in Indiana somewhere! Does anyone have a recommendation or willing to help me tune Hondata?

Here are the specs on the car.. sorry if some of the info is irrelevant but I am copying and pasting from a spec sheet.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

EXTERIOR:

2000 Civic Hatchback Taffeta white CX model
Civic Type R front bumper chin spoiler
Civic Type R rear bumber chin spoiler
Civic Type R rear wing
Civic Type R mirrors
SI/CTR grill with badge delete
Rota Slipstreams 7.5 Black in color
BFG 225/50/15 Fronts
BFG 205/45/15 Rears
VIS Carbon fiber hood with paint matched sides
All moldings color matched to body

INTERIOR:

SI cluster
Carbon fiber gauge insert
Sony Xplod in dash flip out CD player
Greddy Profec B spec II installed underneath Head unit
Greddy Remote switching switch mounted onto steering wheel (overboost button)
Interior is clean with no rips or burns
Alpine Type R Speakers through out
Solo Short shifter
red DC sports Aluminum Shift ****
Autometer triple gauge pillar pod
EGT
BOOST
FUEL pressure
(all autometer black face gauges)

ENGINE:

GOLDEN EAGLE Godzilla sleeved GSR motor (1.97L)
Copper O'ringed
84MM CP Pistons
Crower Rods
GSR crank micro polished
Brand knew OEM Honda bearings and gaskets
Type R water Pump
Type R oil pump
Type R timing belt
Cometic headgasket
Moroso 6.5 capacity oil pan

Modern Cylinder head -full race- port and polish
Supertech 1mm over exhaust valves
Supertech .5mm over intake valves
Supertech Titanium springs (I believe they are 90-100lb seat pressure)
Supertech Titanium retainers
Hondata heat shield intake manifold gasket
Edelbrock Victor X intake manifold
Edelbrock 68mm Throttle body
Edelbrock adjustable cam gears
GSR cams
(Fake)Mugen valve cover with CNC cut outs for cam gear adjustments
Greddy twin catch can setup
GM 3 Bar map sensor
AEM fuel rail
Precision 1000cc injectors with GM clips
Honda resistor box with GM connector
Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator
-6 stainless fuel feed and return lines
Walbro 255lph "HIGH PRESSURE" fuel pump
New OEM Honda alternator
FAL fan
MSD wires
AVID motor mounts with race urethane
Hondata S300 with boost option of course

TRANSMISSION:

GSR trans with Quaife LSD
Exedy Twin Disc clutch
GM Syncromesh
2000 civic SI shift forks with prothane bushings
LS 5th gear

TURBO SYSTEM:

Inline Pro stainless steal manifold T3 style
Precision SC61 6169E .63 A/R
-4 stainless steel oil feed
-8 stainless steel oil return
One-Fab 3" downpipe with flex pipe
Inline Pro 2.5 aluminum charge pipes
TIAL Blow off valve
TIAL 44mm wastegate with dump underneath oil pan
Precision 750HP intercooler
Full 3" Vibrant exhaust no resonaters or cat
Greddy Profec B Spec II

SUSPENSION:

TEIN full coilover suspension with pillow mounts
Prothane full bushing kit
GSR front suspension with slotted rotors
GSR rear suspension with slotted rotors
Russel stainless brake lines
Z-10 traction bars

-[95cxhatch]-

While I was putting the fuel rail back on I noticed that the o-rings on teh injectors were torn in some spots... Not all the way through but about half way. I'm going to try replacing the o rings and go from there. This really feels like a vacuum issue but I could be wrong.

94delslo

so the previous owner removed various parts and before you bought the car and when you got the car he included them? im guessing you put them back on.

what im getting at is that if you replaced the missing parts (turbo, manifold, etc.) with different parts then your problem is your tune for sure.

hell, the cars been sitting for 2 years on the same tune...you should get it re tuned anyway. at least that's what i would do. but then again, a lot of ppl are running on a 2+ year tune and still running great.

-[95cxhatch]-

all of the components put back on were the original tuned components.

I helped him put the car back together then bought it after it was "running" again.

-[95cxhatch]-

I also have a slight exhaust leak where the downpipe and flex pipe connect. I don't think it would cause this rough of an idle though... thoughts?

-[95cxhatch]-

still have not replaced the o-rings - will be doing that tonight. I have noticed that if I hold the brake pedal to the floor while the car is idling it seems to smooth out. This is really makes me think this is a vacuum related issue. I do not see a check valve on the large tube coming out of the brake booster. Is there supposed to be one there? I'm going to post up a diagram of my vacuum lines this evening.

Bump - someone chime in here!

twkdCD595

surging idle can most definately be caused by a vac. issue.

double check all vac lines for possible leaks or whatnot and btw yes you should have a check valve in the large brake booster line.

Snafubmx234

IACV, Vac leak and yes, bleed all the brakes.

-[95cxhatch]-

is the check valve normally on the top center part of the large vacuum line coming off the booster? (see pic)

-[95cxhatch]-

I don't see a check valve....

philafelman

yeah, kinda sound like a vacuum leak. i was gonna say that it was a iacv problem, but when you said the brakes arent functioning well, kinda made me lean toward vacuum. do you have a gauge? maybe the hoses have become brittle and cracked after years of sitting.


and in the center part of the hose in #13 of the diagram...that could possibly be the check valve.

-[95cxhatch]-

well I just replaced the o-rings between the injector and fuel rail. 3 out of 4 had a small chunk or tear in them. Still have the surging idle though.

Here is a crude diagram I made in paint of my vacuum lines. The boost gauge is showing around -25 to -30 in hg vacumm at idle. The car builds and holds boost mainly around 4-7k peaks at 13ish psi



This is starting to drive me crazy!

-[95cxhatch]-

another note - the CEL is not on! In some sick way I kinda wish it was so I had some idea what is causing this...

-[95cxhatch]-

all vacuum lines are new - replaced with goodyear 50psi fuel/vacuum hose

-[95cxhatch]-

I unplugged the vacuum line going from the brake booster and manifold and plugged the port.

still have surging idle...


I have found a tune shop about an hour away from here so I'm going to take it in and get a look at this Hondata setup.