JeeK

iTrader: (1)

I have a B20 block and a full C1, Both are currently sitting at about 9:1 CR. I want 10.5 - 11:1 for my JRSC set up. As far as WHP I'm aiming for mid to high 200s with water/meth

Current plan is B20 block, GSR crank, GSR forged rods (already own) and pick up some forged 84mm pistons and use the GSR head.

Can anyone with experience see any reason to go with the C1 block over the B20?

B20VtecVillain

For that horsepower level you will be fine with either block. The only drawback to the B20 block is stock sleeve strength. If you were to have the GSR block bored to 84mm and sleeves, it would be a lot safer to handle power over the realm of 400+. The stock B20 sleeves are reliable in stock bore up until that point, but strength decreases rapidly once you start opening the bore on stock sleeves. For your power goals though, I believe the B20 will be fine, and the only thing you are really giving up are the piston oil squirters in the GSR. There is a bit of science to the hybrid VTEC engines as well though, so make sure the engine builder is familiar with the requirements of a reliable LSV/B20V build. If it is done right, you will enjoy a great setup that has gobs of TQ and a blast on the street. I have been running a 12.5:1 B20V all motor for about 2.5- years now, over 13,000 street miles and probably 100+ passes. Making a tad under 230whp and revving to 8400-8500. Have had Zero issues, and am currently in the works of boosting the same engine with a GTX3076R for the upcoming season and I expect great results. My only fear is again, my stock B20 sleeves once I get over 400.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Why would you use the gsr crank in a b20 block?

Dark_Teg

"GSR forged rods (already own)"

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

ok sell the rods and buy ls rods.

Bitches love a longer stroke

LTCxD2B

Use the c1 with the forged rods since u already have them smh that little bit of displacement ain't **** with a super charger

JeeK

iTrader: (1)

I won't be pushing too much hp on this set up, its going in my EF8 and the reason I didn't go turbo even though i owned 98% of the parts is i want to have AC and refuse to cut anything to make **** fit (tight engine bay, EF/ED problems) Plus it will be an auto-x/track day car, need instant power more than high numbers. The engine will be mated to a short ratio YS1 with wavetrac LSD

The oil squirters and girdle are the only reason I even ask this question, I don't think sleeves will play a roll in this set up. I don't wanna sleeve the C1 as cost is a major issue here. I've just put so much money into this car and need to start spending money on other aspects of life hahaha.





Yes the reason I will use the GSR crank is for the rods I own, I rather not sell them as its a hassle and I'm not trying to spend more money right now.

The displacement comment is a good point, a GSR crank/Rods will destroke the B20 to around 1.9L IIRC

I guess if I only gain ~.1L it might not be the best idea to give up the squirters and girdle... but this is why I'm looking for outside opinions. I have been indecisive about this for almost a year now and it's time to get my build sorted out

B20VtecVillain

Didn't realiZe/read you were using GSR crank and rods. Since thas the case just use the whole C1. No need to use extra parts to run VTeC since your on a budget and you can make those power goals easy with 1.8L and a blower. Hell, you'll be close to those #s peak with a stout GSR on motor alone, so the blower will just bring that power and TQ in faster and earlier in the rev range.

DC_Legacy

For the driving conditions he's prob going to use it for from the sounds of it, it prob would be best to ditch the GSR crank and rods but given he already has them I dont see where there will be a terrible loss or difference in power netted between the 87.2 vs. 89mm Crank.....

Personally I like the idea of keeping the Bore to Stroke ratio as close to one another as possible so I like seeing the 84/85x87 builds....

JeeK

iTrader: (1)

Ahh I guess using the C1 would be the easiest, and I get the benefits of the squirters and girdle. Just gotta ditch the 9:1s and get something higher

B20VtecVillain

Indeed. 9:1 with a blower wouldn't net you much power. Honestly if good fuel is available to you I wouldn't go less than 11:1, just make sure to get the tune setup properly before you thrash on it any.

JeeK

iTrader: (1)

Less than 11:1, wow. I've read a into the SC a lot before buying it, seems most people with knowledge have recommended 10.5-11, maybe 11.5 max? I notices some companies dont really offer too much, some jump from 10 to ~11.5

Supertech seems like the most economical option right now, just starting my research on them now. But they would limit me to 10.1:1 as the next step up is 11.9

B20VtecVillain

Honestly your tuning is going to matter a lot more than which pistons you run, but 10:1 area wouldn't be terrible. For your power goals though, with a higher comp base build and a low boost pulley setup you would probably make your desired power with significantly lower IATs than you would with a low comp build and spinning the blower harder to make that power. Fuel will also be a limiting factor as well. If you have access to E85 and a tuner experienced with that fuel, you will be able to run more compression and more timing safely than on pump gasoline. Im getting ready to start tuning my 12:1 B20V turbo setup soon and switching from gas to ethanol, hoping to have a stout TQ monster on my hands. Just praying my stock sleeves hold up for atleast this one season under boost!!

JeeK

iTrader: (1)

I've been searching for high comp jrsc builds since yesterday, only found one at 12:1. So much talk from people that obviously don't have experience saying run low comp, but from the few decent posts I've seen I'm leaning towards higher compression and lower boost. I have a b20 crank pulley and. Gsr one. The alternator pulley that came with the kit is ruined and there are no replacements. So I will go with an ASP stepper pulley, GSR. Crank pulley and the 4.2" nose pulley. I know if it was a 4" nose pulley it would be about 9psi so hopefully I can get it around the 7 range

Mid 11s seem to be a good compromise, but that would mean super tech are out of the question. Wiseco are about 100 bucks more, just gotta confirm what compression ratios I can get with them