superfuji57

One day I got a really bad leak from where the downpipe meets the turbo, but I still drove on it like that for a while. I just got the flange on the downpipe resurfaced (guy said it was warped to hell) and slapped the sucker back on still same loud *** leak, and I can feel the exhaust coming from in between. So I guess I'm left with the exhaust part of the turbo warped, right? I didn't think it could happen so easily =\

CLIFFS: Can the turbo exhaust warp bad when the dp is warped bad, too?


Modified by superfuji57 at 4:46 AM 8/11/2005

Arturbo

I doubt the housing is warped. The flange is alot easier to warp if anything.

superfuji57

I should take/post a picture. I can literally slip a thin piece of metal in between the turbo and dp facing the radiator =\

I just had the dp resurfaced, so that would have to be the only explanation right? Or am I just being a bitch and should torque the bolts to hell

superfuji57

I'm gonna cry I haven't boosted for like 9 months =*( Today was supposed to be the day.

Arturbo

Get a new flange and see if it still has that gap. Also, with the downpipe off insert the bolts to make sure the housing isnt stripped making it look like the flange is warped when it could be that the bolts are not all the way in.

toolowsol

Go buy some high temp RTV copper whatever sealant. I used that on my downpipe flange when I had a nasty leak, sealed it up and held strong for a year before I could fix my flange. It is red in color and holds up to the heat beautifly

lkailburn

^^^heheh the hmt fix

isn't that turbo exhaust housings cast? i didn't think cast COULD warp lol

i agree check the bolt holes and the bolts your using. and then check a new flange

superfuji57

Ok, so the threads aren't stripped. I sprayed some copper spray on there and tightened the bolts harder than I've ever done, and it STILL leaks exactly the same. If I JUST got the flange resurfaced, how could it still leak like that?

superfuji57

Will a new flange solve all my problems? I paid $40 to get this flange resurfaced, and I'm looking at ATPTurbo and it looks I'll be spending almost another 100 for the new flange and then I have to get it welded. I'm poor gotdamnit!!!

bubbahatch92

The guy told you to use Red Silicone not copper spray. copper spray is not thick enough to seal up large imperfections. Got to the auto parts store and get some red high temp silicone and try that. If not get a new flange put on you down pipe.

superfuji57

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bubbahatch92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The guy told you to use Red Silicone not copper spray. copper spray is not thick enough to seal up large imperfections. Got to the auto parts store and get some red high temp silicone and try that. If not get a new flange put on you down pipe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go buy some high temp RTV copper whatever sealant</TD></TR></TABLE>

Besides, I tried silicone a year ago to no avail.

lkailburn

use one of the thin fine cut metal 12" rulers. they are cut (not perfectly but) really flat and use that to check for warpage on your exhaust manifold.

i didn't know that cast COULD warp? are you sure there isn't a broken chunk missing or something.

get some pictures up too

SHystrdyGSRtdy

$100 for a dp flange?

superfuji57

Thanks for your help, everyone. Ok so here's the situation now. I received the new flange and plan on getting it welded tomorrow. But from the pics, can you guys see anything?

Turbo side



Downpipe side



The red stuff is silicone that i put on hoping to stop the leak. All of the silicone was pushed out by exhaust only on the turbo side, or at least that's the only side that it stuck to. The downpipe is still smooth just like I received it from the machine shop. Above the cleanest part is where the leak is coming from.

Does any of this mean anything, or should I just go ahead and get the new flange welded?

Cole D

Andy are you getting the new flange for dp welded today? This is Chris I spoke to you the other night on the phone

lkailburn

yo here's what you should do. go buy yourself a flat metal file like this:



and start filing down the exhaust housing. from filing you'll be able to see where any high or low spots are. if the surface is flat you will have even file marks over the whole area. if its uneven, you'll only have file marks in certain high spots and the low spots will be untouched. just be sure to keep the file flat and even pressured when filing. do the same on your first flange.

when i found out my ramhorn's head flange was warped i did this and then took an angle grinder with a flapper wheel to take down the high spots, then filed again, took down the high spots, etc until it was 99.9% perfectly flat. it worked like a charm and saved me 75+ dollars of getting it milled.

EDIT: just be sure to protect your turbo from the shavings when you file

Cole D

he already got the dp flange milled and it still leaked

lkailburn

ya i know, i want him to do it on the housing.i would do it on the milled flange aswell to make sure. it would take about 3 mins of filing but then you'd know it was flat. maybe they didn't mill it correctly, you never know. slim chance but

SL0WEGG

is it me or does the flange looked warped still?

superfuji57

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cole D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Andy are you getting the new flange for dp welded today? This is Chris I spoke to you the other night on the phone </TD></TR></TABLE>
Getting welded today, detailed Saturday

lkailburn

superfu-- are you going to check the exhaust housing? if you don't want to file it down go buy one of those fine cut 12" metal rulers. those are almost perfectly flat(the good ones) and you'll be able to lay that across the exhaust housing and tell if its messed up

Arturbo

what ever you do, don't file down the exhaust housing. Its very hard for cast iron to warp. Its your flange on the downpipe, I assure you. When you put on the new flange I'd make sure to clean the surface of the turine housing.

lkailburn

i didn't even know it was possible for cast to warp. maybe under extreme situations. but he still needs to check it. check it with one of the fine cut metal rulers.

he needs to call up the shop that milled his flange too. cuz if it still leaked after milling..and the housing is flat.. he needs a refund