I know this has been asked before but I couldn't find anything when I searched.

My friend is building his car up a little more for next year. The car is a daily driver. And he plans on racing it every weekend that he can. This past year he was running a T4 60-1 and he is switching to a t66. He knows he will have more turbo lag and wants to spray a 100 shot in 3rd and 4th only since those are the gears he gets the most traction in. He currently is running Hondata which will control up to 28psi. He is looking at running 34-35 psi which is the reason for the different engine management.

Does anyone have suggesions on engine management. We were looking at Haltech and the TEC3. He is looking for something that can control the boost and nitrous.


Thanks in advance

 

woah....

block sleeved?
underwear waterproof?

engine management... how about bowel and bladder management?

if thats a daily driver then whats he gonna boost on the street?

 

He only boost 17psi on the street about 450whp.

 

You need something that supports a 5 bar map sensor. Haltech, motec, pretty sure autronic. Not sure about the new DFI. Find out who the tuner recommends and is comfortable with.

 

Motec man, next subject.

 

isnt hondata suppose to be coming out with software or something that will let you run bigger then a 3bar sensor?

 

You can do it on Hondata NOW.

Take a look at the 'sensor calibration' for the '3 bar' map sensor.

There is NO reson you can't install a 5 bar sensor and input the
approriete sensor curve.

Even if you don't change the 'sensor curve' in RomEditor, just change to the
5 bar sensor and re-tune.

The only limitation is map size (16 x 16 or what ever). So if you used a
16 bar map sensor (hypothetical) each column would be 1 bar of boost...


I suggest he stay with Hondata.

Jeffrey Atwood

 

I'll have to check that out. It would be nice to stay with Hondata. The tuner was talking about using Haltech or a Wolf system.

 

sounds like hondata will work if not maybe Power FC?

 

Hondata will probalby work.

What does this car run? Because with the bigger turbo AND nitrous, I'm a little skeptical as to if he needs 34psi. Is he going for a dyno queen or a drag car?

2 bar on that turbo plus nitrous will be ample power for 8's without even the extra 6psi. I'd be surprised if his chassis and the rest of his setup can support 8's though.... Just something to think about. You hit a point where more power and more boost doesn't mean a faster time because you aren't getting it to the ground.

 

35psi and nitrous... perfect for the aem ems. seperate nitrous maps and 5bar map sensor, boost control and all. even run a coil on plug setup to have the ignition power to support all that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trbob16a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hondata will probalby work.

What does this car run? Because with the bigger turbo AND nitrous, I'm a little skeptical as to if he needs 34psi. Is he going for a dyno queen or a drag car?

2 bar on that turbo plus nitrous will be ample power for 8's without even the extra 6psi. I'd be surprised if his chassis and the rest of his setup can support 8's though.... Just something to think about. You hit a point where more power and more boost doesn't mean a faster time because you aren't getting it to the ground.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats is what I was thinkin, and this car would probly suck on the street.

 

afc hack

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Buraku &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">afc hack</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats pretty funny but I still have to give the big

 

My tuner recommended Speed Pro (aka F.A.S.T.) EMS, so that I have on my car. It works great.

Bigger turbo and NOS, more power, you should also think about traction unless, of course, if your friend will be running on slicks.

Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Buraku &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">afc hack</TD></TR></TABLE>

or maybee try uberdata

 

urber data is still in the process of suporting a 3bar map. 5 bar is in nonexistance.

 

He is running slicks, will be switching to 26's to try to get traction. I told him he should wait and see what he can run with 35psi, then add the nitrous if he is able to get traction. With 24" slicks his 1st and 2nd is pretty much useless only in them for a second. The car is still a street car so I doubt he would see 8's without some weight reduction. He is trying to hit low 10's high 9's with full interior. But part of him does like the big dyno numbers(although 575 doesn't seem like that much anymore) but he was never able to run more than 20psi at the track because of no traction. I will pass on the info from you guys and we'll see what happens. Will keep everyone up to date.

 

Actually with the 60-1 the car is streetable, but with the t66 he is hoping to spool around 5K rpm or so. That way he doesn't have to drive all the time under boost since the car is pretty loud when boosting since he runs an open downpipe. Plus he doesn't have a roll cage in it yet. Looks fairly stock except for the huge intercooler behind the bumper.

 

http://www.hydra-ems.com/

not only can it control a 5 bar map sensor, but it has full dedicated 32x32 maps for anti-lag fuel and ignition. it can control vtec, sequential EFI, drives low impedance injectors (eliminates resistor box and allows a little bit more accuracy as far as open times..), individual cylinder fuel trims (this is HUGE. this is something that hondata can't even dream about right now. certain cylinders usually blow first due to being hotter than the others (end of coolant flow) or being at the far end of the fuel rail from the inlet, etc. this allows you to add more fuel in the specific cylinder that's running lean.

everyone on the MR2 boards knows that it's usually #4 or #3 cyl that blows first, yet they all try to fix it with water injection instead of using a system like this to make sure the mixture in that cyl is at specified lambda.

honestly, this looks to be one of the best ems on the market, and it's only $1350 (compare to AEM). when i get around to upgrading the turbo on my MR2, i'm getting one of these...