both links work for me, all you are looking for is a 40 amp relay or higher

 

Alright so with the help of 2kdrift, I understand how I am going to hook up this 40 amp relay..

The only thing i want to change is instead of taking it to the battery for hot, can't i take it to the starter for my hot?

Is there any potential issues that could come of this?

My battery is behind my passenger seat and i don't prefer to run a wire all the way back there.

 

You can also run the wire from the starter power wire or the fuse box rather than the battery.

 

*UPDATE*

Installed 40 amp relay and 12 inch SPAL fan.. Problem resolved!!

Just got back from driving for almost an hour and temps never exceeded 196 with spirited driving... I had the same fan settings in S300 (fan on above 175) so I need to do some adjusting with settings but she is running MUCH cooler.

Thank you all for the help... Damn SPAL makes a good product

 

Kool. Im actuall curious of the fans primary wire temps. I can only think theyre heat soaked from the bay.

 

Just another update.. I know it's been a while. The 12 inch SPAL fan has greatly decreased my engine coolant temps, but i am smelling coolant in the engine bay and I have always smelled coolant. I am beginning to think this SKUNK 2 radiator is junk. I took the car to the track the other night and ran 7.71 @ 91mph and hit two passes and the engine coolant temperature jumped up to 219. I also noticed the coolant reservoir is empty.

I have noticed some white specks on my samco radiator hoses and i think it's dried up coolant..

I would love to know the difference between 1.1 and 1.3 bar radiator caps and how this effects anything.

If i buy another radiator, who can i get to make me a fan shroud for my 12 inch spal fan so it will bolt up?

Are triple row radiators worth it or something I should consider?

 

Wow.. We're talking about just over 3 years worth of silence. Has it done well til now, or did it do ok then start progressing to what it is now?

 

Lol. The car sit's a lot and i never drive it. My wife's Dad recently started taking his Mustang to the track, which prompted me to get some 23 inch M & H Slicks.

The car seems to be fine around town, but since I have installed this radiator, I just always seem to smell a hint of coolant. I feel like i should be able to make a pass without my ECT jumping up past 219-223.

Let me ask you this. Let's say I get a better radiator and that better quality radiator is still just as close to my turbo manifold. It's just going to get hot too isn't it, or could that make a difference?

Also, what causes the reservoir to get drained?

 

Maybe not.. See below..
Coolant loss. You mentioned white flecks on your hoses. Almost like water spots? Also smelling coolant in the engine bay. Telltale signs of a leak. A quintuple core adamantium radiator cant keep temps cool if you're losing coolant. Lol! Pressure test and find that leak, yo!

 

So I started looking around and found a very tiny hole on the top of the coolant reservoir underneath the lid..

Could this be my leak? It’s at the tip top where coolant doesn’t even touch, just wondering if there’s any type of pressure that could cause it to blow out up there

 

That's hard to say if it's your culprit, but I wouldn't rule it out. Pressure test your cooling system before changing that out to determine further. Good catch!

 

I'm running a 12-inch SPAL fan with a shroud that Go-Autoworks makes to fit their 1/2 width radiator.

 

I suspected as much. I hadn't seen the thread links, but that's a nice catch.

Using a higher pressure cap keeps the coolant from reaching its atmospheric boiling point longer, thereby keeping the coolant within the engine system longer before relieving excess pressure into the reservoir.

Honda coolant makes good use of higher boiling points, so using a 1.3 bar maximizes the utility of your coolant better. It can assist in keeping the engine return to cooler temperatures faster (especially turbo applications), but not necessarily lower coolant temperatures overall

 

I wonder if that would fit mine, do you have any pics?

I greatly appreciate the help... I am really hoping to get this issue resolved.

gonna order a 1.3 bar cap, try and find a new coolant reservoir that’s not $56 from Acura and pressure test and see what we got

 

this is the best pic I have with it off the car. He had to re-drill the holes for the SPAL bolt pattern, but no big deal.

 

Go Autoworks redrilled the holes or somebody else did for you?

I just called and talked to Greg and he said as long as skunk 2 used factory bolt location for fan shroud, it would work.

So I ordered the fan shroud. Did it come with those Allen bolts to attach fan to shroud?

 

Yeah, Greg redrilled the holes. As you see it is how it shipped to me - I ordered radiator, fan, and shroud all together.

 

Good to hear the Spal fan fixed the issue! I find it strange that you had that tiny hole on the reservoir. I believe if the coolant drains from the reservoir after bleeding the system its because there's still air in the system.

 

Well the SPAL fan didn't completely fix the issue, or maybe it did and i took the car to the track and it exposed this coolant loss issue which resulted in these high temps. The engine coolant temperature would reach 220's cruising with the crappy fan, but after the SPAL they never exceeded 200... even after a couple of pulls, if it did.. it wasn't by much.

So the car sits a lot and I just don't tinker with it or drive it much. So another little update, Like i was saying a few replies up.. I took the car to the track went 7.71 @ 91mph and on the 2nd consecutive pass my engine light came on and it was because of over heat protection in hondata set to kick the light on if ECT reaches 220.

I parked the car and let it cool off.. no problem. Went to leave later that night, i started the car up and heard a god awful noise.. almost sounded like a lifter.. I immediately shut the car off and noticed the alternator belt was shredding and slinging a piece of belt around. I ended up limping the car home and once i got home and was looking at it further, i noticed the alternator pulley had a knick in it and the belt was toast. The engine light came on and it was throwing codes P0118 (engine coolant temperature circuit) and P0113 (intake air temprature circuit high input) & P0123 (Throttle/Pedal position sensor.) Is it possible the low voltage due to my alternator belt issue was causing these CEL to kick on? Also how in the hell could this have happened? A rock flew up in there? That's my only possible explanation.... I’m thinking P0118 could be contributed to low coolant?

The hole in the reservoir has to have been there, and i just haven't noticed it. I picked up a mint used reservoir from @chuck chainz. I ordered a fan shroud from greg at go autoworks and today i started tinkering with the car and it looks like the skunk 2 radiator could be leaking possibly from the end tanks. I went ahead and ordered a b series dual core radiator from greg today too.

I am waiting to borrow a buddies coolant pressure tester to confirm the leak in the radiator... regardless something is leaking, the engine bay smells like a slight hint of coolant.

I was just going to replace the pulley on the alternator, but this thing is old as **** and i am thinking about just getting a Denso remanufactured alternator and calling it a day.. I hope i don't have issues with it.

 

Pmd.

 

Do you know what temp the engine was actually tuned at? usually tuners will get it up to 180 deg and once they reach that temp they tune all parameters and its saved, What im trying to get to is 200 deg cruising is a bit high to what im used to seeing even in a boosted B series cruising you should be at around 175 to 185 deg. Once the engine warms up and if indeed it was tuned at 180 deg the tune will be slightly off do to the higher temps im sure.

Its a very good chance a rock flew up there and destroyed the Alt. belt, I have seen this happen on a B series with no timing cover and the Alt belt got caught in the timing belt and water pump which caused severe damage. [ The engine light came on and it was throwing codes P0118 (engine coolant temperature circuit) and P0113 (intake air temprature circuit high input) & P0123 (Throttle/Pedal position sensor.) ] These codes sound like a break in the wiring signal, usually a check engine light (cell) will trigger when the sensor itself gets damaged or there's a break in the signal in the wiring harness. Check to see if any part of the engine harness behind the intake manifold is damaged or pulled. Its possible the Alt belt flew back there damaging the IAT sensor and TPS sensor wiring, it may share a ground causing the other sensors to trigger a cell.

Deff. replace the radiator and see if the smell of coolant goes away and put a new alternator and reset the ecu and see what happens.

 

*UPDATE*

Buddy came over with a coolant pressure tester and I noticed a slow drip underneath the exhaust.

This clamp on the heater core was too far back and causing a drip.. I loosened the clamp, moved it up and snugged it down.. put the pressure back on it and no leaks. Unsure if I am going to have to replace the heater core or not, that port could be damaged. No leaks as of now.

The Skunk 2 radiator isn’t leaking, but I already ordered a Go Autoworks radiator anyways.

I’ll install the new go autoworks radiator with shroud.. follow the instructions posted in thread earlier and bleed the system.

I hate that I bought another radiator, but I’ll sell the skunk 2 and make some money back.

 

The car was tuned at operating temperature, not sure of exact temp. Yeah, holy ****. I’m glad I have a timing cover, don’t have to worry about that.

Is it a possibility those engine lights could have been triggered from the low voltage though?

I will definitely replace alternator and belt and report back

 

I wouldn't suspect the car threw those codes from shredding the alternator belt.. Reason why is because I lost my damn crank pulley going down the road once before and the alternator of course, was not spinning. Only light that popped on for me was the battery light. If your alternator fried out entirely... Possible, sure.. Probable, no.. Keep an eye on on those codes.. As for your radiator.. Half size? PM the price shipped to 71852! I may be interested..

 

Agreed.

No cause like mentioned above it wouldn't damage the sensors or the wiring physically, but the belt could have tore the harness like I mentioned and could be the cause of those check engine codes. But if all looks good slap a new alt. on and see what happens.