So should I get a pusher or puller??? I just want this heat issue taken care of.. I prefer not to swap radiators and I would like to get the biggest fan possible.

I believe that is the one I have.. I'll have to check.

I know this might sound stupid, but wiring is not my expertise.. Could you all explain how I am going to wire a relay in and where will it go? Is it absolutely necessary or a must I mean? I don't want to have issues so I'll do whatever is right.. I just don't know how to wire a relay. I'll have to have some help

 

No. Not necessary to wire in a relay, but it is nice. User 40amp fuse as I stated.

Puller. Stick with puller style

 

That depends on the fan you go with if you decide on the spal I linked you relay would be recomended. you will get more performace out of the fan and not worry about blowing out fuses

the relay is basically just a switch

Heres what I did
1. Gave my fan a constant ground at a nearby body ground
2. I then used my OEM wiring harness to connect to coil (pins 84 and 85)
3. Ran HOt wire straight to battery on common (pin 30)
4. ran a wire for 87 or 87b I forget which I used to fan, easy enough to test with a paperclip in the T stat housing connector that connects to thermoswitch

 

See 2kdrift? See what happens when both people play nice in the sandbox? Both are right, no one has to be "proven" wrong, and Jimmy benefits for both ideas..

 

Right now the fan on the car has a two wire harness that's plug and play.. Let's say i get the new fan, it's going to have two wires.. you took one of those wires and grounded it?

For step 3 you ran a whole new wire to the battery or an existing wire?

I don't see a link to a relay..

Here is an update:

I done what you said and picked up some purple ice.. drained and used funnel got all air bubbles out.. set Hondata s300 so the fan would stay on any temp over 175 degrees.. something like 175 degrees or 157 mph

I drove the car tonight it stayed around 210ish and on the highway with spirited driving it reached 219 and stayed there, I didn't turn the heat on to try and bring it down until a few mins later.. It stayed 219 the whole trip until it got back to the garage.

I changed the over heat protection to 225 degrees and i never seen a CEL, However that is WAY to hot for my liking because i feel like if i wanted to get it hot i certainly could have.

Not to mention it's 75 degrees since it rained today and cooled everything off.

If i had to bet, I am guessing this fan flows somewhere between 700-800 cfm.

I am wondering if a good fan 1200+ cfm will fix?

I just need a link to one? I believe I am going to have to have 12 inch

 

your talking to yourself here right?

 

Apparently so. Oh well. You try to get along with others by finding some common ground, and one has to expect to get spat on for doing so. Ah, such is H-T.

 

One thing though.. using a puller fan all it does it blow that hot *** heat directly onto my charge piping.. it's not better at all to do a pusher? I know what you are advising TheShodan, but i believe 2kdrift set his up as a pusher.

My IAT is factory.. how does one go about getting it into the charge pipe for an accurate reading?

 

Well done Jimmy, as I stated in the previous page, the SPAL series is easily DOUBLE the CFM of whawt you currently have, in the standard puller style. Easily 1600cfm-1800cfm. But you want the PULLER style.

SPAL 30102029 - is the 12"



12" Specifications

SPAL 30102044 - is the 13".



SPAL 13" Specifications


Now. Be careful. The outer diameter of the 12" is actually 13" at the end of its fan shroud, while the 13" is actually 13.5" at it's shroud. You need to measure your radiator so that it doesn't have it's outer shroud too far outside it's core area. Similar to the C&R, Skunk2 may have designed it so that it's a bit shorter than the Mishimoto and other aftermarket at the core.

Stop the Hondata settings stuff, and go back to the 185 * setting and try leaving it there.

There you have it.. But I'll see if I can again measure on the other SKunk2 Alpha I have here. It may take a day as I'm getting pretty swamped.

 

No. The Intercooler pipe isn't going to give a **** about that fan pulling in cooler air.. It's more concerned about the speed and cooling of the exchanged air of your intercooler, not some fan. Trust me. You're starting to confuse ambient temps to charge air temps. Bringing IN cooler air is easier, then getting hotter engine bay air out. PLUS, your issue isn't overheating from hot air, it's from higher cylinder temperatures with your coolant. One thing at a time, my friend.

One thing at a time. Leave the IAT sensor alone. Get this running correctly first, then worry about that IAT when you have an intercooler issue (like it being not efficient enough). Again, don't confuse ambient engine bay temp air, with exchanged charge temp air, that you're intercooler is responsible for.

They have very little, if anything in common.

 

We are good my friend, you have helped my heaps in the past. I always do try to play nice in the sandbox lol. Not trying to spat on you at all just saying

 

agreed, Pusher/puller either way its still blowing on your charge piping FYI.

Shodan is correct about the hot air not necessarily raising your IATS as the charge air is moving so fast within the piping its not gonna absorb the heat off your intake pipe. If you noticed I used heat wrap on my intercooler piping (cold side) which drops the tempurature of my charge piping if nothing else it makes me feel better

As far as IAT temp relocation its a nice thing to have but not a requirement, I paid go autoworks to weld mine in since im not a welder myself. You can find the bungs online and have them welded in

 

Check out this one. It's saying 12.625 inches wide and 13.125 in length.. gonna go try and measure radiator right now

 

the part number is sent you? It will fit not problems go ahead and measure but it will work fine. 12" fans will fit the best

 

12" Spal Electric Pusher Fan 1360CFM Spal 30102030 VA10 AP70 ll 61S | eBay

 

Wrong part number. That is for the Pusher. Please use what I recommend. I had that part number given for a specific reason. I'm trying to tell you. PULLER will be easier to cool the coolant in the radiator than the pusher with your engine / turbo kit configuration.

 

Been done before without issues. You're not the first person with that configuration. But it was mentioned to wrap / coat your exhaust manifold, downpipe, etc. Even the pusher would require that to help.

Here's my older setup from 2013-2015. Only 190F*, never went above 198F* in 90* ambient weather. One PULLER SPAL 30102044 fan. 40a Fuse. I"ll probably use a relay next year for better electrical conductivity to work with my earthing kit.






And here it is with the front bumper off...



Bumper on.

 

Dang man that car looks great.. Love it

Ordering fan tomorrow..

 

Thanks. It's a little busy with a few things that will be replaced/eliminated, but that's for 2017-2018.
-Haltech Elite 1500
-LoveFab Manifold / full v-band
-Block bore to 84mm/89mm (Turbo Tuff / Wiseco 10.5:1 )
-LS1 Individual "Smart" Coils (No OEM K-series here)
-AEM EPM w/ magnetic Hall-effect sensor on TODA RACING CAM Gears
-NASA Approved Cage
-Tilton Rally Pedal Kit
-Custom Doug Miller 3/4 Radiator
-GReddy Profec Boost Control w/ DENSO Solenoid upgrade
-6 Piston Willwood Brake upgrade 12.2"F/11.6" R w/ Brake ducts
-Custom headlight air duct
-Aquamist HFS-3 Meth injection w/ Foam-filled anti-slosh 2 Gal tank
Yada, yada, yada.

 

Yes grounded 1 of those wires that goes to the current fan (no need to have both goto the relay you only need to switch one of the wires)

setp 3 yes I ran a thicker wire Directly to the battery (also ran a thick wire for step 1) this is kinda the whole point to using a relay ....thicker wires = more current capability

heres the relay that I used http://www.ebay.com/itm/381339525799?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

I agree here. I ran my 13" spal with the stock wiring for a while and the car would still overheat. The stock wiring doesn't have the power the fan needs. I switched to a relay setup like 2kdrift is talking about and the fan pulls much more air.

 

Sounds like it's going to be nice..

When you say thick wire, what gauge would you say?

Wonder what CFM the fan flowed with the stock wiring? So it was a noticeable difference with the relay?

Is there a way for me to put my Honda connector on this SPAL fan and plug it in to the factory wiring harness and then run a relay?

I found the fan on Summit and they price matched it.. ended up getting it for $99 shipped and it should be here tomorrow

 

I'm not sure on the CFM, the fan was noticeably louder and my car didn't overheat anymore. You would have to run the stock wires to the relay like 2kdrift mentioned. If you are concerned about splicing the stock harness, then leave the connector and run your wires to the relay from the fan side plug.

Also I have been running for years with a 40 amp relay so you don't really need the 60/80 amp one that 2kdrift linked to if you just want to pick one up locally. Something like this one: http://www.autozone.com/electrical-a...?checkfit=true

 

think it was 14ga

agreed i the temco ones are overkill but there were cheap. I also did the same as you no splicing whatsoever

 

I'm not able to pull anything up