Engine break-in without tune
hi all, i'm rebuild my engine, a b16, with arias 9,1cr pistons, eagle rods, oem brearings....
When it gets done, i'm going to do a HARD Break-in method. My main doubt is, as the first miles are the most important(like 20miles) for the right break in, i'd like to know if the richer afr will damage my rings. Or the diff will be worthless, and i should not care for it. I'm going to run hard for about 40miles and then get it tuned.
Very thanks!
When it gets done, i'm going to do a HARD Break-in method. My main doubt is, as the first miles are the most important(like 20miles) for the right break in, i'd like to know if the richer afr will damage my rings. Or the diff will be worthless, and i should not care for it. I'm going to run hard for about 40miles and then get it tuned.
Very thanks!
I would get it tuned before you do anything "hard" to it. I ran my brand new motor "gently" on a basemap, but hard? You're asking for something to go wrong then. Get it tuned while you run it hard and it will break in nice and "easy".
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rikawa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm going to run hard for about 40miles and then get it tuned.
Very thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are a little backwards. get it tuned, then run it hard.
Very thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are a little backwards. get it tuned, then run it hard.
Well, I see, but what is more important?
1- Have a good break-in (run hard for the first15miles) and then get tuned on a Dyno..... or
2- Tune in a Dyno and then take it Hard.
I think the 1st option is better for the ring assentment(sorry for may bad english), but i'm afraid if the 9,1cr will make my afr too rich and get my rings damage. I know it'll be richer than stock, but Will it be rich to take any damage to the rings? Remeber, just for the first miles, then ím ging to have it tuned.
That's just my doubt.
Thanks again!
1- Have a good break-in (run hard for the first15miles) and then get tuned on a Dyno..... or
2- Tune in a Dyno and then take it Hard.
I think the 1st option is better for the ring assentment(sorry for may bad english), but i'm afraid if the 9,1cr will make my afr too rich and get my rings damage. I know it'll be richer than stock, but Will it be rich to take any damage to the rings? Remeber, just for the first miles, then ím ging to have it tuned.
That's just my doubt.
Thanks again!
im starting my new motor up tomarrow infact and i was alos wandering about this. i had a base map made for me i turned the boost all the way down and im running stock injecotrs for now. if its to rich ill just turn the fuel presure down if i feel shes running to high ill turn it up a little. im gunna run it for 500 miles change the oil then another 1500 and switch it to synthetic.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mattcivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im starting my new motor up tomarrow infact and i was alos wandering about this. i had a base map made for me i turned the boost all the way down and im running stock injecotrs for now. if its to rich ill just turn the fuel presure down if i feel shes running to high ill turn it up a little. im gunna run it for 500 miles change the oil then another 1500 and switch it to synthetic. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldn't switch to synthetic until after about 5000 miles if you at all switch to synthetic. At 1500 miles you'll still be breaking the engine in, IMO.
I wouldn't switch to synthetic until after about 5000 miles if you at all switch to synthetic. At 1500 miles you'll still be breaking the engine in, IMO.
Its best to run it hard for the first 15 minutes due to the fact that when you get your block honed, the cross etching acts as a file and seats the rings well. You have about 15-20 minutes tops for this. I also changed my oil after this and again at 600 miles...
Yes, an engine needs a good break in, but running it hard on a basemap is just plain stupid. Also, you guys that are changing your oil like 4 times. Break in the rings for 500 miles, change the oil, you're done.
I would use the stock injectors and stock ecu and let it run in closed loop-no boost. You will then have the ecu controlling to 14.7 afr and will not screw up your engine. I would not run in open loop or someone elses base map unless I had a wideband.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtecD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, an engine needs a good break in, but running it hard on a basemap is just plain stupid. Also, you guys that are changing your oil like 4 times. Break in the rings for 500 miles, change the oil, you're done.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that sounds like my style. i think people have there own style but im sure all the above listed will work in there own way. 500 miles for me then oil change then another 1500 and im going to switch to synthetic im sure it will be just fine.
that sounds like my style. i think people have there own style but im sure all the above listed will work in there own way. 500 miles for me then oil change then another 1500 and im going to switch to synthetic im sure it will be just fine.
Well when I broke in my motor I did this
1: Fired car up let it idle at 2000 Rpm for 20 minutes shut the car off drained the oil
2. After the oil change I then took it out for a drive I took it up to 5k in first then let it coast back down to about 1800 rpm and did the same in all the other gears after this the rings should be set
3. At 500 miles I changed the oil again
4. 2000 miles I changed to synthetic..
Everyone seems to have a different theory or opinion this is mine it has worked good for me in the past..
I had a 400hp GSX broke the motor in the same way and that motor is still going with over 50k on the build
1: Fired car up let it idle at 2000 Rpm for 20 minutes shut the car off drained the oil
2. After the oil change I then took it out for a drive I took it up to 5k in first then let it coast back down to about 1800 rpm and did the same in all the other gears after this the rings should be set
3. At 500 miles I changed the oil again
4. 2000 miles I changed to synthetic..
Everyone seems to have a different theory or opinion this is mine it has worked good for me in the past..
I had a 400hp GSX broke the motor in the same way and that motor is still going with over 50k on the build
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1FastCoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was talking about running it hard for the first 15 minutes without boost..not on boost because its not tuned of course...</TD></TR></TABLE>
A friend of mine got his brand new ALL MOTOR engine tuned by a FAMOUS tuner here in So Cal. The tune was terrible. ONE quarter mile pass and the engine was HISTORY
Please, listen to me and TUNE FIRST before breaking in (just don't use the same guy my friend did
)
A friend of mine got his brand new ALL MOTOR engine tuned by a FAMOUS tuner here in So Cal. The tune was terrible. ONE quarter mile pass and the engine was HISTORY
Please, listen to me and TUNE FIRST before breaking in (just don't use the same guy my friend did
)
I'm almost done with my engine build and I plan to fire it up and idle for a little bit about 10 minutes. Then...I'm having it towed to the tuner and let him break it in. Don't screw all that money and hard work. Screw the guy that wants to see what you got
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