ThefirstPACT

So...I am in the very beginning stages of boosting my NSX. Yes there are kits available...however they have an "NSX tax" associated with them. I refuse to pay 10k for a kit that is less involved than a 4k Honda Civic kit.

I have a 1995 NSX-T and it is OBD-II, my options that I am looking at to tune are a standalone AEM or the AEM FIC. I do have emissions testing here in Utah and I do not plan on boosting very much, looking for around 380whp on the stock long block. This seems to be done on a fairly low amount of boost, the majority of boosted NSXs seem to be doing it on 5-7lbs. Does anyone see a problem with something this conservative on an AEM FIC?

I have a very capable friend who will be fabricating the "turbo manifold" for me along with the intercooler and exhaust. I plan on getting new injectors, in tank fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. I am still looking at options for a turbo. I am wanting something very streetable and matched to the horse power level I am trying to obtain. I am not looking to integrate the potential of more power into anything I am purchasing, as I have zero intentions on building the C30 currently installed.

So what do you guys think? I am open to options, opinions and anyone who thinks I am dumb for boosting an NSX haha.

Thanks for the help.

LightningTeg

I dont have any experience with NSX's, but if they are like any other Honda, it should be pretty straightforward.

If you truly are going to be content with ~400whp, I would maximize it instead of just trying to reach that peak number. GT3071R comes to mind.

ThefirstPACT

What is your take on the EMS?

What do you mean by "maximize" exactly? I mean I plan on getting quality stuff, but I do not need room to grow..if that makes sense.

The NSX is pretty straight forward, besides the EMS side of things.

LightningTeg

Power under the curve. So you want something that will be responsive and give a broad torque band, and still flow enough at peak. So you need to pick a turbo that is in its peak efficiency at your power goal.

AEM infinity is the new one that have out. I haven't heard anything less than positive about it.

ThefirstPACT

I see that the AEM infinity is out...but at that price point and what the system does...I really feel that it is overkill. I could see going with the AEM version 2, but I also feel that it maybe a little overkill as well. I am not looking for an all out monster of an NSX, I am just looking to up its power slightly.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

The FIC is a capable unit however it is limited in that you can only retard timing, not advance it. Plus it requires extensive tuning and setup of the features that limit or "clamp" the signals that stock ecu sees.

AEM should have a Series 2 EMS that is a plug and play unit. Simply replace the stock ecu and off you go. The Infinity is decent but very expensive, especially for a relatively low power/tame setup.

LightningTeg

I never actually looked into the price, I just figured they discontinued the old stuff.

ThefirstPACT

I have been looking at AEM's Series 2, however...I would have to convert back to "stock" once a year to pass Utah's smog. That is why I was leaning towards the FIC.

I am not a tuner, but I wouldn't foresee a reason to need to advance timing in a boosted application? Or is there certain cases where this is needed?

As for the extensive tuning...wouldn't this also be the case with the Version 2? With the FIC (from my understanding), I would only need to tune "in boost" since the OEM ECU is doing all the start up and drivability still..is this correct?

Thanks again for helping me "think out loud"...

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

The infinity 6/8 is only 1500

The aem v2 is 1400 i think

Id go infinity

Dont cut corners on an nsx. Thats just wrong

I dont know the ve curve of your motor but im sure it looses efficiency close to redline. Typically youll want to advance the timing after peak tq to carry the tq to redline

So yes advance and retard is needed to properly tune any motor

ThefirstPACT

Infinity for the NSX is over 2k and go up to 3.5k...
https://www.scienceofspeed.com/index...x-1995-05.html

AEM V2 is a basically $1900.
https://www.scienceofspeed.com/index...x-1995-05.html

So nothing is cheap for this damn car and like I said...going with either of those...I am going to have to go back to stock every year for smog.

rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

I can't think straight, that is my dream car. mega squirt? Ems that is.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Returning everything to stock is much less work than you think... Especially on a stock engine that doesn't have radical camshafts. I have to swap back as well for emissions, it's quite simple. Especially if you are using a plug and play ecu that retains the stock harness.

Here are the steps:

Replace stock ecu
Replace stock injectors
Replace stock sensors (MAP sensor mainly)
Disconnect charge pipe from turbocharger
Pull wastegate spring
Drive to complete readiness checks
Pass emissions
Replace components

By disconnecting a charge pipe and pulling the wastegate spring you will prevent any boost pressure from being generated so the stock ecu won't throw a code and enter limp mode. Contrary to what you hear this will not cause your turbocharger to over speed and suffer a failure, especially without a wastegate spring which will allow exhaust gasses to bypass the turbine wheel.

Geis

Yeah it'll just suck in unfiltered Air :s
I thought you were in one of the too cool for smog states Mr.toocoolforCali

Now all Ill need for smog is to connect my dumptube to the exhaust....
Naw I got a year and a few months

4drEF

<p>I had to look this up because I thought 1996 was the start of OBD2. &nbsp;Apparently some&nbsp;1995 vehicles had it and even a handful of 1994 vehicles had OBD2&nbsp;as well.</p><p>I learndid something!</p><p>I know with some&nbsp;ECUs there are ways to manually set all the ECU monitors to smog ready.<br />It might be worth your time to find out if you can do this with your stock ECU.<br />Getting the drive-cycle to trigger the catalytic converter monitor is a pain sometimes. &nbsp;My neighbor is going on over 2,000 miles and this monitor still hasn't set. &nbsp;<br />I don't think you would want to drive with unfiltered air for too long.</p>

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

<p>The very end of the 95 production year is when OBD2 was implemented... It depends on the build date of the vehicle.</p><p>and @Geis obviously an air filter would be used... don't be a fucktard</p>