EF Top Mount Update
I always tought that my 3" down pipe was big 
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Hiboosta, IL, USA
Re: EF Top Mount Update (White Smoke)
Damn this got pushed off my recent topics and never came back, HTs got to fix that bug.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Midwesta »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that looks awesome, where in IL are you from?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Aurora / Naperville area
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OnePointFive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lookin good scott. so that's where the CRX has been this summer hope all is well at NIU..
btw, are you and 'dad' for hire? i was wondering if you guys would be up for mocking up a top mount mani for my hatch. LS swap with a t3/t4e 60 trim turbo. PM me if you're up for it...
the rex is coming along great. i remember when it was white and without a hood </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're still out in Dekalb you gotta show us where the crazy partys are on Halloween we have some crazy costumes planned. Dadfab is going to be taking some time off when this project gets done, it's been taking way too long. We had an electrician come over last week and we've been pricing welders this week so we might be able to do a lot more stuff out of the garage. I'll hit you up if all goes through.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ELSpool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I love how the SC61 is a small turbo now..nice setup, looks killer, good luck with hitting your numbers! </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I'm saying, SuprDave is already trying to sell me a bigger turbo and I haven't even put a mile on the last one I bought from him.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nevin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what traction bar are you running to fit that 4in dp? are you going to produce these or is it just a one off?
a/c compatible? </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's a Dadfab traction bar. It's based totally off a full-race bar I have, I respect the work they put into designing it but I needed a few additional things on it. The Dadfab bar has tow hooks, radiator mounts and a front engine mount. The piece is pretty much one-off unless my dad loses his full time job and decides to start up a business.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Marlon88 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Nice setup
Huge downpipe I always tought that my 3" down pipe was big
What internals are you running in that monster engine !?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's a B18C, AEBS sleeves, bore right now is at 84mm, Arias 9.2:1 pistons, Crower Billet rods, ACL bearings, running underneath a B16 head w/ Supertech springs & retainers, and GSR cams.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuprDave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm predicting 250whp and 13.9s.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's if I run out of money for tuning and end up trying to do it myself again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Clutchmasters Twin?
How do you like it?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's the Tilton Twin, the car hasn't been gone anywhere yet but I like how it looks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Midwesta »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that looks awesome, where in IL are you from?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Aurora / Naperville area
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OnePointFive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lookin good scott. so that's where the CRX has been this summer hope all is well at NIU..
btw, are you and 'dad' for hire? i was wondering if you guys would be up for mocking up a top mount mani for my hatch. LS swap with a t3/t4e 60 trim turbo. PM me if you're up for it...
the rex is coming along great. i remember when it was white and without a hood </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're still out in Dekalb you gotta show us where the crazy partys are on Halloween we have some crazy costumes planned. Dadfab is going to be taking some time off when this project gets done, it's been taking way too long. We had an electrician come over last week and we've been pricing welders this week so we might be able to do a lot more stuff out of the garage. I'll hit you up if all goes through.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ELSpool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I love how the SC61 is a small turbo now..nice setup, looks killer, good luck with hitting your numbers! </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I'm saying, SuprDave is already trying to sell me a bigger turbo and I haven't even put a mile on the last one I bought from him.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nevin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what traction bar are you running to fit that 4in dp? are you going to produce these or is it just a one off?
a/c compatible? </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's a Dadfab traction bar. It's based totally off a full-race bar I have, I respect the work they put into designing it but I needed a few additional things on it. The Dadfab bar has tow hooks, radiator mounts and a front engine mount. The piece is pretty much one-off unless my dad loses his full time job and decides to start up a business.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Marlon88 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Nice setup
Huge downpipe I always tought that my 3" down pipe was big
What internals are you running in that monster engine !?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's a B18C, AEBS sleeves, bore right now is at 84mm, Arias 9.2:1 pistons, Crower Billet rods, ACL bearings, running underneath a B16 head w/ Supertech springs & retainers, and GSR cams.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuprDave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm predicting 250whp and 13.9s.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's if I run out of money for tuning and end up trying to do it myself again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Clutchmasters Twin?
How do you like it?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's the Tilton Twin, the car hasn't been gone anywhere yet but I like how it looks
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Posts: 1,104
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From: Los Angeles, Ca., USA
Re: (jaydmcrx)
JUst a couple of questions,
Why is the -3an line for your t/o bearing running right behind your dp/manifold? It almost looks like it is touching the dp.
How did you do your clutch pledal/mc setup?
On my CRX I ended up chopping off the whole clutch pedal and brackets from the stock pedal assembly, then I welded a bracket in there for a tilton reverse mount pedal assembly. I'm running a 3/4" mc for the clutch and it is a bit of a chore to drive on the street.
I get about 1/4 of pedal travel from dis-engaged to engaged. I have the carbon/carbon clutch so it does not have as much weight to it as yours, but I dought it will make that much of a difference. I've been playing with the idea of switching the mc out for a 5/8th's one to get a little more play-room.
How do you plan on running your radiator? heheh it looks like you have no room at all.
on a nice project and good luck! Trust me when I say I know exactly what you must feel like sometimes while searching for more room
Why is the -3an line for your t/o bearing running right behind your dp/manifold? It almost looks like it is touching the dp.
How did you do your clutch pledal/mc setup?
On my CRX I ended up chopping off the whole clutch pedal and brackets from the stock pedal assembly, then I welded a bracket in there for a tilton reverse mount pedal assembly. I'm running a 3/4" mc for the clutch and it is a bit of a chore to drive on the street.
I get about 1/4 of pedal travel from dis-engaged to engaged. I have the carbon/carbon clutch so it does not have as much weight to it as yours, but I dought it will make that much of a difference. I've been playing with the idea of switching the mc out for a 5/8th's one to get a little more play-room.
How do you plan on running your radiator? heheh it looks like you have no room at all.
on a nice project and good luck! Trust me when I say I know exactly what you must feel like sometimes while searching for more room
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From: Hiboosta, IL, USA
Re: (TrueNorthStar)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrueNorthStar »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JUst a couple of questions,
Why is the -3an line for your t/o bearing running right behind your dp/manifold? It almost looks like it is touching the dp.
How did you do your clutch pledal/mc setup?
On my CRX I ended up chopping off the whole clutch pedal and brackets from the stock pedal assembly, then I welded a bracket in there for a tilton reverse mount pedal assembly. I'm running a 3/4" mc for the clutch and it is a bit of a chore to drive on the street.
I get about 1/4 of pedal travel from dis-engaged to engaged. I have the carbon/carbon clutch so it does not have as much weight to it as yours, but I dought it will make that much of a difference. I've been playing with the idea of switching the mc out for a 5/8th's one to get a little more play-room.
How do you plan on running your radiator? heheh it looks like you have no room at all.
on a nice project and good luck! Trust me when I say I know exactly what you must feel like sometimes while searching for more room </TD></TR></TABLE>
I assumed that was where everyone ran it and I planned on wrapping it, do people usually take a different route with it? I'm running the tilton hyraulic release bearing to a tilton 3/4 master cylinder. I have a spare 5/8 tilton master cylinder but I can barely get the 3/4 to fit and the 5/8 is a lot longer.
I have a half sized radiator, from our original measurments it was going to fit with trimming the left side headlight housing. Now that everything is back in the bay its not working out too well. I'm probably going to have to run it on an angle, kind of sucks to see it on an angle but it might be the only way it's going to fit.
Why is the -3an line for your t/o bearing running right behind your dp/manifold? It almost looks like it is touching the dp.
How did you do your clutch pledal/mc setup?
On my CRX I ended up chopping off the whole clutch pedal and brackets from the stock pedal assembly, then I welded a bracket in there for a tilton reverse mount pedal assembly. I'm running a 3/4" mc for the clutch and it is a bit of a chore to drive on the street.
I get about 1/4 of pedal travel from dis-engaged to engaged. I have the carbon/carbon clutch so it does not have as much weight to it as yours, but I dought it will make that much of a difference. I've been playing with the idea of switching the mc out for a 5/8th's one to get a little more play-room.
How do you plan on running your radiator? heheh it looks like you have no room at all.
on a nice project and good luck! Trust me when I say I know exactly what you must feel like sometimes while searching for more room </TD></TR></TABLE>I assumed that was where everyone ran it and I planned on wrapping it, do people usually take a different route with it? I'm running the tilton hyraulic release bearing to a tilton 3/4 master cylinder. I have a spare 5/8 tilton master cylinder but I can barely get the 3/4 to fit and the 5/8 is a lot longer.
I have a half sized radiator, from our original measurments it was going to fit with trimming the left side headlight housing. Now that everything is back in the bay its not working out too well. I'm probably going to have to run it on an angle, kind of sucks to see it on an angle but it might be the only way it's going to fit.
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From: Los Angeles, Ca., USA
Re: (ScottEK)
I ran 3/16"s stainless hard line off of the mc to the passenger side firewall to a -3an bulkhead fitting. In the engine bay I ran -3an ss braid to the t/o bearing. It runs over the tranny to the little "window" in the casing.
What model 5/8's mc do you have? I have 2 of them that I am using for my brakes (stock pedal still) and they are actually shorter than the 3/4 by about 1/8th of an inch.
For my radiator, I placed it under the radiator support. Its a AFCO unit that I chopped the stock water necks off of and welded -16an bungs on the side of it.
What model 5/8's mc do you have? I have 2 of them that I am using for my brakes (stock pedal still) and they are actually shorter than the 3/4 by about 1/8th of an inch.
For my radiator, I placed it under the radiator support. Its a AFCO unit that I chopped the stock water necks off of and welded -16an bungs on the side of it.
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Hiboosta, IL, USA
Re: (TrueNorthStar)
Here are the comparison pics of the 3/4 and 5/8 Tilton master cylinders.
I went in the garage and there was a freaking homing pigeon (maybe racing pigeon) chilling on top of my crx. It was totally cool, you could walk up to it and feed it, it totally liked people. It just chilled walking around the garage for like a half hour before it finally left. Weirdest thing, and yes it did **** on the car.
I went in the garage and there was a freaking homing pigeon (maybe racing pigeon) chilling on top of my crx. It was totally cool, you could walk up to it and feed it, it totally liked people. It just chilled walking around the garage for like a half hour before it finally left. Weirdest thing, and yes it did **** on the car.
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From: Los Angeles, Ca., USA
Re: (ScottEK)
You know you can use a -3an - 3/8" banjo fitting to save you a good inch in total length. That and it ill come off at 90 degrees.
That top mc is a 74 series mc, it doesn't have a spring in it like the lower mc which is a 75 series mc. The 75 series are much shorter than the 74's as you can see.
That top mc is a 74 series mc, it doesn't have a spring in it like the lower mc which is a 75 series mc. The 75 series are much shorter than the 74's as you can see.
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From: honky in, nc, usa
Re: EF Top Mount Update (PRELUDE-GT35R)
i hate things that just come by, hang out, ****, then take off. you should have shoved it in your down pipe and made it walk through your exhaust, at least you would have got a clean pipes out of the deal!
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Re: EF Top Mount Update (chet)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chet »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your downpipe is overkill.
3inch dp's flow plenty of air...more than your 61 can flow.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn, well if that's the case then I might as well pull that thing off and put on 2". Or wait would that not be big enough? You say 3" is the magic number and have no proof to back it up so I guess that's what I should trust... Ha
It's going to be running on Neptune but for the start up I have it on Uberdata because I can make changes myself. It is currently up and running great, I just need to get everything mounted solid before I take it over to Suprdave for the final tune.
3inch dp's flow plenty of air...more than your 61 can flow.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn, well if that's the case then I might as well pull that thing off and put on 2". Or wait would that not be big enough? You say 3" is the magic number and have no proof to back it up so I guess that's what I should trust... Ha
It's going to be running on Neptune but for the start up I have it on Uberdata because I can make changes myself. It is currently up and running great, I just need to get everything mounted solid before I take it over to Suprdave for the final tune.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nowhere, in, Canada
Re: EF Top Mount Update (ScottEK)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ScottEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Damn, well if that's the case then I might as well pull that thing off and put on 2". Or wait would that not be big enough? You say 3" is the magic number and have no proof to back it up so I guess that's what I should trust... Ha
It's going to be running on Neptune but for the start up I have it on Uberdata because I can make changes myself. It is currently up and running great, I just need to get everything mounted solid before I take it over to Suprdave for the final tune.</TD></TR></TABLE>
expletive people are dumbasses eh...back up ur **** before u say dumb **** like 3" dp is overkill
Damn, well if that's the case then I might as well pull that thing off and put on 2". Or wait would that not be big enough? You say 3" is the magic number and have no proof to back it up so I guess that's what I should trust... Ha
It's going to be running on Neptune but for the start up I have it on Uberdata because I can make changes myself. It is currently up and running great, I just need to get everything mounted solid before I take it over to Suprdave for the final tune.</TD></TR></TABLE>
expletive people are dumbasses eh...back up ur **** before u say dumb **** like 3" dp is overkill
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From: IL, USA
Re: EF Top Mount Update (ScottEK)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ScottEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's going to be running on Neptune but for the start up I have it on Uberdata because I can make changes myself. It is currently up and running great, I just need to get everything mounted solid before I take it over to Suprdave for the final tune.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Looks to be a amazing setup, much $$ and time to get where you are, why are you going cheap on engine managment (and tuner)? AEM has many more features, even a Motec system would be worth the extra money when you look at what you have for a setup. Post some dyno numbers when you get it tuned, I would like to see what kind of power that sick *** setup makes....450-500whp??
It's going to be running on Neptune but for the start up I have it on Uberdata because I can make changes myself. It is currently up and running great, I just need to get everything mounted solid before I take it over to Suprdave for the final tune.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Looks to be a amazing setup, much $$ and time to get where you are, why are you going cheap on engine managment (and tuner)? AEM has many more features, even a Motec system would be worth the extra money when you look at what you have for a setup. Post some dyno numbers when you get it tuned, I would like to see what kind of power that sick *** setup makes....450-500whp??