Ect question.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Ramona, CA, USA
Ect question.
I'm running water cooler setup on a 30r. I get my cold side from the bottom of my radiator and then feed to hot side via the coolant block drain plug on the front of the block with a 6an fitting. Question is would I get false / cooler ect readings because of my location on the block??? I'm getting between 154 to 143 act via Hondata s300. Motor feels considerable hitter in the bay. Just looking for ideas. Thanks guys!!
Last edited by nfg177; Jul 30, 2015 at 03:18 AM. Reason: Misspelling
Re: Ect question.
No. If you're getting a false reading, its either the sensor itself or a calibration of the sensor from which I understand Hondata allows? 
But a false reading from running water lines to the GT30R? No. You have it setup perfectly.
But a false reading from running water lines to the GT30R? No. You have it setup perfectly.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,507
Likes: 2
From: Odessa, TX, USA
Re: Ect question.
Hondata gets its reading from the sensor in the T-stat housing. You may get different reading from the coolant system in other areas. This is usually only the case till the car warms up. You get to a point where everything equalizes.
Re: Ect question.
Thats the fan switch
The ect is under the distributor on b motors
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,507
Likes: 2
From: Odessa, TX, USA
Who is Mr Robot?
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,474
Likes: 10
From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Re: Ect question.
The way you have it plumbed you aren't getting cold water from the radiator...
The front block plug is after the water pump so that side "pushes" the coolant while the the side before the water pump gets "pulled" if that makes any sense.
So what's happening is the turbocharger is being fed hot coolant first which then exits into the cold side of the radiator. This isn't a big deal because the water cooling is only there to keep the oil temperature inside of the bearing housing below 300F, anything over that is where the oil in the bearing housing starts to coke and can clog bearing passages inside the turbocharger. The additional heat absorbed by the coolant from the turbocharger is minimal and shouldn't cause any noticable increase in coolant temperatures unless you have an issues somewhere else in the system.
This time of year your coolant temps shouldn't be that low. Either you don't have a thermostat installed or like suggested above either the sensor is bad or Hondata doesn't have the sensor properly calibrated. Also do you know what temperature thermostat is in it? It could either be too cold meaning it starts to open well before the coolant reaches operational temperature making it almost impossible to get it up to temp unless you beat on the car. The thermostat could also be stuck open as well. Although I doubt that's what it is.
First step is to unplug the harness from the ect sensor and measure the resistance of the sensor when the engine is cold and then start the car, let the coolant temp stabilize, and measure it again. Then you can compare these values to what the service manual says for a properly functioning ect sensor. If that checks out fine then you need to see what the sensor calibration is in Hondata.
What sort of cooling setup do you have?
Full rad or half rad, stock or aftermarket?
If half rad and no AC is there a panel blocking the opening to force air through the radiator?
OEM radiator fan or aftermarket, pusher or puller?
Fan switch on/off temp in Hondata?
What coolant? Standard 50/50, distilled water/water wetter, straight distilled water, etc
New or old water pump?
Is thermostat installed, installed properly, working properly, proper opening temperature?
Is the system filled to capacity and thoroughly bled?
And so on.
The front block plug is after the water pump so that side "pushes" the coolant while the the side before the water pump gets "pulled" if that makes any sense.
So what's happening is the turbocharger is being fed hot coolant first which then exits into the cold side of the radiator. This isn't a big deal because the water cooling is only there to keep the oil temperature inside of the bearing housing below 300F, anything over that is where the oil in the bearing housing starts to coke and can clog bearing passages inside the turbocharger. The additional heat absorbed by the coolant from the turbocharger is minimal and shouldn't cause any noticable increase in coolant temperatures unless you have an issues somewhere else in the system.
This time of year your coolant temps shouldn't be that low. Either you don't have a thermostat installed or like suggested above either the sensor is bad or Hondata doesn't have the sensor properly calibrated. Also do you know what temperature thermostat is in it? It could either be too cold meaning it starts to open well before the coolant reaches operational temperature making it almost impossible to get it up to temp unless you beat on the car. The thermostat could also be stuck open as well. Although I doubt that's what it is.
First step is to unplug the harness from the ect sensor and measure the resistance of the sensor when the engine is cold and then start the car, let the coolant temp stabilize, and measure it again. Then you can compare these values to what the service manual says for a properly functioning ect sensor. If that checks out fine then you need to see what the sensor calibration is in Hondata.
What sort of cooling setup do you have?
Full rad or half rad, stock or aftermarket?
If half rad and no AC is there a panel blocking the opening to force air through the radiator?
OEM radiator fan or aftermarket, pusher or puller?
Fan switch on/off temp in Hondata?
What coolant? Standard 50/50, distilled water/water wetter, straight distilled water, etc
New or old water pump?
Is thermostat installed, installed properly, working properly, proper opening temperature?
Is the system filled to capacity and thoroughly bled?
And so on.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Ramona, CA, USA
Re: Ect question.
The way you have it plumbed you aren't getting cold water from the radiator...
The front block plug is after the water pump so that side "pushes" the coolant while the the side before the water pump gets "pulled" if that makes any sense.
So what's happening is the turbocharger is being fed hot coolant first which then exits into the cold side of the radiator. This isn't a big deal because the water cooling is only there to keep the oil temperature inside of the bearing housing below 300F, anything over that is where the oil in the bearing housing starts to coke and can clog bearing passages inside the turbocharger. The additional heat absorbed by the coolant from the turbocharger is minimal and shouldn't cause any noticable increase in coolant temperatures unless you have an issues somewhere else in the system.
This time of year your coolant temps shouldn't be that low. Either you don't have a thermostat installed or like suggested above either the sensor is bad or Hondata doesn't have the sensor properly calibrated. Also do you know what temperature thermostat is in it? It could either be too cold meaning it starts to open well before the coolant reaches operational temperature making it almost impossible to get it up to temp unless you beat on the car. The thermostat could also be stuck open as well. Although I doubt that's what it is.
First step is to unplug the harness from the ect sensor and measure the resistance of the sensor when the engine is cold and then start the car, let the coolant temp stabilize, and measure it again. Then you can compare these values to what the service manual says for a properly functioning ect sensor. If that checks out fine then you need to see what the sensor calibration is in Hondata.
What sort of cooling setup do you have?
Full rad or half rad, stock or aftermarket?
If half rad and no AC is there a panel blocking the opening to force air through the radiator?
OEM radiator fan or aftermarket, pusher or puller?
Fan switch on/off temp in Hondata?
What coolant? Standard 50/50, distilled water/water wetter, straight distilled water, etc
New or old water pump?
Is thermostat installed, installed properly, working properly, proper opening temperature?
Is the system filled to capacity and thoroughly bled?
And so on.
The front block plug is after the water pump so that side "pushes" the coolant while the the side before the water pump gets "pulled" if that makes any sense.
So what's happening is the turbocharger is being fed hot coolant first which then exits into the cold side of the radiator. This isn't a big deal because the water cooling is only there to keep the oil temperature inside of the bearing housing below 300F, anything over that is where the oil in the bearing housing starts to coke and can clog bearing passages inside the turbocharger. The additional heat absorbed by the coolant from the turbocharger is minimal and shouldn't cause any noticable increase in coolant temperatures unless you have an issues somewhere else in the system.
This time of year your coolant temps shouldn't be that low. Either you don't have a thermostat installed or like suggested above either the sensor is bad or Hondata doesn't have the sensor properly calibrated. Also do you know what temperature thermostat is in it? It could either be too cold meaning it starts to open well before the coolant reaches operational temperature making it almost impossible to get it up to temp unless you beat on the car. The thermostat could also be stuck open as well. Although I doubt that's what it is.
First step is to unplug the harness from the ect sensor and measure the resistance of the sensor when the engine is cold and then start the car, let the coolant temp stabilize, and measure it again. Then you can compare these values to what the service manual says for a properly functioning ect sensor. If that checks out fine then you need to see what the sensor calibration is in Hondata.
What sort of cooling setup do you have?
Full rad or half rad, stock or aftermarket?
If half rad and no AC is there a panel blocking the opening to force air through the radiator?
OEM radiator fan or aftermarket, pusher or puller?
Fan switch on/off temp in Hondata?
What coolant? Standard 50/50, distilled water/water wetter, straight distilled water, etc
New or old water pump?
Is thermostat installed, installed properly, working properly, proper opening temperature?
Is the system filled to capacity and thoroughly bled?
And so on.
Last edited by nfg177; Jul 30, 2015 at 10:27 PM.
Who is Mr Robot?
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,474
Likes: 10
From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Re: Ect question.
Well running a fan that large constantly is more than likely your problem. It has the capacity to keep coolant temperatures below the opening point of the thermostat which can cause a huge problem.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Ramona, CA, USA
Re: Ect question.
Yeah but if that's the case why is the thermostat still opening I'm pretty sure I'm getting false readings false numbers
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Ramona, CA, USA
Re: Ect question.
Ok this is weird explain some please. My turbo is off being rebuilt at the moment so I can't real get op temp reading of resistance on my ect sensor at the moment but I said what the hell and did cold. Does this seem right to anyone. Car is cold not started**
Why is Hondata showing my ect at 129 degrees cold. When it's 73 degrees outside?? The resistance was 2.11.
Why is Hondata showing my ect at 129 degrees cold. When it's 73 degrees outside?? The resistance was 2.11.
Last edited by nfg177; Jul 31, 2015 at 03:06 AM. Reason: Adding text
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post