<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike@synapse motorsport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i totally would have tried to duct tape that back together. pics would have been much better</TD></TR></TABLE>


STFU you're so stupid!!! You know you would JB Weld it !

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostfed.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


STFU you're so stupid!!! You know you would JB Weld it ! </TD></TR></TABLE>

you ever read the package of jb weld? apparently some **** like this happened to some guy with a tractor while he was shreddin the cornfields like a big dog. he just jb-weld'd the block back together and finished his gnarly *** harvest and whatnot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xD**ktonesx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you ever read the package of jb weld? apparently some **** like this happened to some guy with a tractor while he was shreddin the cornfields like a big dog. he just jb-weld'd the block back together and finished his gnarly *** harvest and whatnot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

**Borat Voice** NIIICE

 

God dam after market piece of ****.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xD**ktonesx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bob saget!!!! that thing's fucked.

rods held up like a champ though.


but im willing to bet that was a 600+hp motor at over 9 grand. something tells me thats not a 320hp motor idling at a red light.

im glad i was IN that car when that happened would suck to loose a foot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It was a 2.2L LS/VTEC with 12.5:1 c/r with nitrous. Car ran for the past 1.5~2 years trouble free. Then the car started having some problems with clutch engagement, which we think can be linked to the crank starting to walk. We pulled the main bearings prior to this last race and found that the bearings on the tranny side of the crank was abnormally worn. Changed the bearings and ran the car. The car ran fine for most of the weekend. Funny thing is, on this run, the car was only running a 75 shot off a single wet fogger instead of the usual direct port 150 shot (car was running more consistent off the 75 shot and we were in brackets). Car put down about 320~330 on the dyno.

 

looking at the psitons, I would have said the compression was around 9-1, but i have a shitty monitor.

330whp and this happens? No one is safe

 

on Eagles behalf I am sure there are a million other Eagle cranks that worked fine. That's like saying all of Honda sucks because of tranny issues. They make good rods that a lot of peeps here run.

The OEM crank is more than good enough though.

I guess what I'm saying is don't discredit eagle so quick just because of one incident. Im no mechanic or anything just talkin in general terms while im bored.

 

There are thousands of Eagle cranks out there in well running vehicles, so it's hard to bandwagon this one. Anyway, yes Honda cranks have broken. Also, they mentioned that engine started to wear thrust bearings and have thrust engagement issues, so the crank walk is probably what bound up the crank and caused the breakage.

 

eagle rods are the bomb, nothing beats an oem crank though, you break that, you are doing it big.

 

Use and LS or B20 crank, a buddy of mine uses a B20 crank in a stock sleeve B20 and made 275whp. And he revs it to 10,000 RPM at the track weekly, I don't see why people say that the LS or B20 crank can't handle it because he's built 4 customer engines that do the same thing. OEM cranks are as good as it's going to get.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatchorama &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use and LS or B20 crank, a buddy of mine uses a B20 crank in a stock sleeve B20 and made 275whp. And he revs it to 10,000 RPM at the track weekly, I don't see why people say that the LS or B20 crank can't handle it because he's built 4 customer engines that do the same thing. OEM cranks are as good as it's going to get.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's because their friend told them that their friend's friend's cousin's brother's sister's mother's dad's cousin's nephew's friend's car blew up when they revved an LS crank over 8000rpm because Honda didn't design it for over 7000rpm! lol

 

Did honda design any of this stuff for what we really do to them? What I'm saying is that there's proof that it has been done countless times. I believe a lot of it is tuning a car right and building the engine properly. How many people do you see making that kind of power on a stock sleeve B20 at 14:1 compression? And this guy I know also has a sponsor through skunk2 because no one has made more power than he did on stage 2 pro series cams. He takes the car to the track every month and runs consistant low 11's high 10's reving to 10k RPM's allll day. And like I've said he's got customers doing the same thing and he built their engines. So that's why I don't understand why the LS and B20 cranks get a bad rep.

 

when you are shooting for 500-600whp on a daily driven forced induction motor you wanna make sure that you chose are the best possible parts, not saying honda cranks wont cut, because 80% of the 500+hp hondas are running them, but I wouldn't use a 275hp na motor as my basis for justify honda cranks.
I made up my mind that I am going to run honda crank, not because I saw a broken eagle, but because honda cranks have been proven. thanks for everyones help.

 

I couldn't agree more. But the reason why I used a B20 crank in a 275whp all motor set up is simply the fact that my friend revs it to 10k consistantly. Lot's of others will say not to do that because it will break. My point is that he has proven most of those people wrong. It's the engine build and the tune. I'd trust an eagle crank personally if I had to. But like you said honda cranks are proven all around. No doubt stay with a OEM crank if you can.