My_EFsedan

got my block from the machine shop. b18a1 81.5mm piston and my head is a b16 with supertech valve train with stock valves.

they said my crank is bad and that i would have to use over sized bearings if i want to use it and polish it. but i already have the std bearings and dont want to source another set.

i found an eagle crank for sale and he said its a stoker crank (im assuming not stock stroke)


would this be ok to run or not?

also a shop near me said to get a stock stroke crank so i dont need to worry about my bearings and with a stroker, i need to check my oil for specs of metal from time to time, is this true?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Youd need new rods am possibly pistons with revised pin height

ef4dr

just track down another oe crank is your best bet man.

-Jason

My_EFsedan

i have eagle h beams, hes asking 350 shipped to me

edit: jason, did you ever get any pm from me?

My_EFsedan

dang it, its a 95mm stroker

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

stroker crank... duh

eka11day

eagle offers a lightweight crankshaft option with their ESP armor technology that is standard stroke. It requires you to chamfer your bearings though.
It is what I will be using in my high compression b16 buiild...
Good luck finding an oem crank in good condition though- i'd be a little sketched about buying a crank from craigslist...

C_Rock77

Never heard of an "oversize" bearing being used when you turn a crankshaft...

If you have your heart set on using your STD bearings, source another crank. I hope that if you're having this shop turn your crank, that they're worth a sh*t. If that's the case, why not take them your rods and have them order bearings for you?

My_EFsedan

its cause i had a stock crank i thought was in great condition. so i bought my rods, piston and bearing all at once. and that they are std bearings. then the shop said that the crank is scarred and that if its going to be polished, i couldnt use the std bearings..so im going to get another stock crank at that.

michael O

I picked up a spare b18a1 crank from pick n pull. I think it cost like $50 or something. There are a ton of 90+ integra LS engines in all the ones I've ever gone to. Some of the engines are already out of the car so it's a simple job.

My_EFsedan

ive seen alot in the pnp in sj. im just probably going to get the one from redzone or something.

EG1834

Polishing shouldn't take off that much material to require a thicker bearing, a couple tenths at most. Are you sure they don't want to turn the crank down and then polish it?

My_EFsedan

i was told the block i sent to get done had a spun rod bearing and that its scarred.

i dont know much about machine work. my friend sends it out for me cause he knows people. he told me that its scarred and was not able to use after polish or something.

whats "turn the crank down"?

C_Rock77

They turn the journal down to the lowest level of the scar, and make sure it's perfectly round.

Then, you have to use UNDERSIZE bearings.

OVERSIZE bearings are when the big end of the rod is machined and I've never heard of a Honda using those.

My_EFsedan

well i mean, a bearing different than a std size.. so if it was turned down and polish, would i be able to run std bearings?

also have a crank from my blown block (thought i'd ask) i was driving and it just blew apart with like a 3 sec tick before it threw a rod..i felt the journal through the hole on the block and it feels really smooth?

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Just get another oem crankshaft there cheap enough. cost you more to turn the one you have and have that rod journal hardend

EG1834

No, you can't use the STD size bearings with a turned crank. You'll have to use something like a .25mm undersize bearing.

I would personally rather use a turned crank rather than another used OEM crank.

First, you never know what condition a used crank is really in. It could have come out of a damaged motor and be bent or even cracked. A competent crank grinder will be able to at least check and straighten the crank and even index the journals so that they're really 180 degrees of eachother like they should be.

Second, you don't have to compromise your bearing clearance. Sell the STD bearings and get the .25mm undersize bearings. The machine shop can put them in the block/rods, torque everything down, and measure the inside diameter of the bearings. Say you want .002" bearing clearance; you take that to the crank grinder and he can grind the crank exactly .002" smaller on every journal so you get exactly .002" clearance on every bearing. No need to mix and match bearings.

Jaker

You've probably already decided not to use that Eagle crank, but that part number and the dimensions (3.4330) are for the GSR/ITR 87.2mm OEM stroke crank. If you went with that crank, you'd need new rods and you'd be giving up 1.8mm stroke. It's a stroker crank, but it's negative (less) stroke, not more.

My_EFsedan

im probably going to go with what eg1834 said. turned the crank and use the .25mm bearings. or the correct size for it.