Looking into doing a E cutout on my DP. I worry about how they hold up and how people like using them. Maybe the better brands? Input?

Looking to do something like this

 

my first one, the motor broke (DMH Performance cut out). i got a new motor for free from DMH this time i JB weld the motor to the base of the cutout. this will prevent the motor from breaking off

 

i have a race ready performance e-cut out, similar to cheezefrog's set up from a while back. mine leaks, and rattles. its a pain in the ***, but sounds amazing. my car looks junky anyways and my exhaust cost me like 150 bucks, so i dont mind too much.

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Modified by bch5428 at 9:07 AM 6/10/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my first one, the motor broke (DMH Performance cut out). i got a new motor for free from DMH this time i JB weld the motor to the base of the cutout. this will prevent the motor from breaking off</TD></TR></TABLE>


i had the 100% same exact thing happen to me.


just make sure that you mount it where the motor is facing upward. i had mine tucked between the firewall and the subframe, so it didnt bang on the ground

 

anybody running Badlanz cutouts? I might be buyin one of theres real soon... ?

 

Yeah I am worried about the noise of it rattling and the damn thing breaking lol

 

more pics? I'm going to get a 3" cutout when I can afford a new downpipe.

 

i have badlanz and i didn't have a problem for the month that my car was running. car is down while i work on a rebuild.

 

question:

i know SFWD requires full exhaust and muffler, does that mean you have to use it, meaning does that mean you cant open it when you go down the track?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by badboyr66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Input?</TD></TR></TABLE>

= SEARCH https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1999354

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPOOLINmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">question:

i know SFWD requires full exhaust and muffler, does that mean you have to use it, meaning does that mean you cant open it when you go down the track?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Id like to know the answer to this also.

If i rember correctly, ur able to use the cut out.

 

I used a 2.5 before on my 01 prelude. for the most part they all leak. if it didnt..it might get sealed shut from the carbon build up. thats why they leak for the most part.

 

Thinking of doing 3 inch to the cutout and then 2.5 from the cutout back... opinions ? Oh and open dump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by badboyr66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thinking of doing 3 inch to the cutout and then 2.5 from the cutout back... opinions ? Oh and open dump</TD></TR></TABLE>im doing 3in dp with 3in CO with in. back.

your setup would be good. Ninja liike

 

i have a badlandz on my car. worked fine for a few months, then while i was doing some work on it for a couple of weeks it decided to bite the dust. i have no idea why.

 

I'm using an LS1 throttlebody and a Civic DX cable to open it. I think it was J.Davis who suggested this option. It's just under 3" diameter.

The only problems with this setup is that the DX cable, the little niblet on the end of the cable sometimes rattles, I've been too lazy to fit it a little better to the throttlebody. Also the TB shaft itself started rattling after a bit, so I have a spring that keeps it tight, and it's been great since then. After doing some hard pulls it takes a few snaps to close it because of carbon buildup. Also it gets sticky and doesn't like to open if you don't use it a lot All the more reason to use it a lot.

I've since added a flexpipe in the 2 1/4" section, and braced the backside of this downpipe, so it's not an entirely current set of pictures, but you get the idea.

 

brother has a QTP cutout on his ls1 car, first thing he did was take apart the cut out, regrease the gearing inside, loctite everything on reassembly, and put a little bead of high temp rtv in the small lip the plate closes agianst (which sealed it nicely and it does not rattle).

has had it for more than 2 years now and only had to redo the rtv seal in the lip once.

 

hahahaha...nice..good idea.

 

holy ****, a TB for a cutout. how do u hold it open?

 

I haven't gotten around to connecting the cable to a lever yet, but that would work nicely. At the moment I wedge a piece of aluminum between the cable and cable body

I had the brilliant idea of using a solenoid from a door lock to pop it open to make my own e-cutout with no delay and no chances of the motor falling apart - it was strong enough and had enough play - but it was going to overheat, so that idea went out. If I was willing to spend money, a motor for door windows might work. Just have to be creative

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I haven't gotten around to connecting the cable to a lever yet, but that would work nicely. At the moment I wedge a piece of aluminum between the cable and cable body

I had the brilliant idea of using a solenoid from a door lock to pop it open to make my own e-cutout with no delay and no chances of the motor falling apart - it was strong enough and had enough play - but it was going to overheat, so that idea went out. If I was willing to spend money, a motor for door windows might work. Just have to be creative </TD></TR></TABLE>

You could rig a switch to the gas pedel so it always opens close to WOT, or use EMS... something to open cutout based on rpm etc... Then use a stepper motor instead of a DC motor to control the tb cable.

You guys have some creative ideas in here

 

Do these cutouts whistle or make any noise (leaky exhaust sounds)?

 

I've been thinking about making my own cutout. I'm really surprized nobody has had the idea to use <U>electric solenoids</U>. Not only are they lightning-fast, but many are rated for MANY hours of continuous use - meaning no burnouts. I've found a cheap, small one that should fit the bill, can be connected like an internal wastegate actuator, and are epoxy-sealed.

BTW if you ever look closely at any OEM TB butterfly/plate, you'll notice they are slightly oval, and usually will have each longer tip beveled. Its obvious the cutouts usually leak and stick due to bad tolerances, seeing as how OEM TB's usually cost an arm and a leg.

 

They make some that are boost activated ...one was used on this car


But I am worried to get a electric one... worry it will not last