egsrcx

running dry 75 shot on gsr and setup runs hot. stock fpr on 92 octane and std timing. car burns oil possibly from worn rings, still need to check compresson. would this lower my octane ratio and cause me to run lean? also would aftermarket fpr or higher octane make a difference?

RyanEJ8

Oil seeping past the rings can lower your octane rating and cause detonation. Higher octane gas will help some.

egsrcx

will octane boost help or will i need race gas to make a diffrence?

Endless

If you could mix in a few gallons of 100 octane or greater, that would help.

egsrcx

how far can you push the stock fpr? i dont have means of tuning yet. thanks for the help

BlackRocket

get a wet kit and you should be alright without tuning. you are running lean with just a dry and not safe. imo

RyanEJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SprayinR21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a wet kit and you should be alright without tuning. you are running lean with just a dry and not safe. imo</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wrong. Dry kit does not make you run lean if you have the proper fuel setup.

egsrcx

no more bottle for me till i install some safety measures. just using a dry kit because of installation ease and its cheap(not to mention screaming through vtec) what fuel setup would be proper? fpr, fuel pressure gauge, fuel controller?
also, where could i find race gas 100+ octane in wa? thanks

RyanEJ8

Really the most important thing with a 75 shot dry would be to upgrade your fuel pump. Go with a high pressure pump.

Built B16A

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egsrcx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
also, where could i find race gas 100+ octane in wa? thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

hit up dirt bike shops, or even your local american power aftermarket dealer.. domestic engines like high oct. fuel too.

both wet, and dry kits can be reilable. but with higher application dry kits, you tend to lean out.

basicly a dry kit uses a FMU to flood the injectors and try to compensate the pressence of nitrous. upgrading your fuel pump and PFR and up'in the pressure would help.

but honestly, ide save the money, instead of the fuel pump and FPR, save up for a wet kit conversion.

you can tune wet kits all in jetting. im sure you could get a wet kit on a GSR tunned in the 12.0-13.0 A/F ratio area. dry kits.... too much variables.

Built B16A

and i speak from experiance.. ive burned too many holes in ring glands and pistons and burned valves from 80 shot dry kits..

i ran 12's on 100 shot wet kit, and plugs still looked new.

egsrcx

100 shot on stock or no? i have no means to build yet, but what could i get out of a stock gsr safely, and what tuning would get me there?

BlackRocket

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Wrong. Dry kit does not make you run lean if you have the proper fuel setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know if you tuned for the dry shot but he never said he was getting any type of fmu or anything to give it extra fuel

Siguy00

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Endless &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you could mix in a few gallons of 100 octane or greater, that would help.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would not recommend mixing fuels. They tent to separate in the tank.

BlackRocket

I agree with built b16 100%.
I wouldnt recommend going with a 100 shot. If you were to go get it dyno tuned for daily driving and when spraying. Never get too excited with nitrous or you'll end up blowing a ring or something by spraying too big of a shot unsafetly or spraying off of every light against an old lady with a monte carlo.

BlackRocket

Do some searching on all of this its been covered a ton.

PM-Performance

i did 100shot dp on my last nitrous set up on my R. totally stock motor, not even the valve cover was ever off at that point and i never had a prob

Built B16A

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did 100shot dp on my last nitrous set up on my R. totally stock motor, not even the valve cover was ever off at that point and i never had a prob </TD></TR></TABLE>

and any ricky racer that does it, will have the same story to tell. riiight

haha, its all in tunning, just like turbo setups, tunning, dry kits are ok... no more than 80 shot.. but with wet kits, you can jet them right up your alley.. straight up, or fat... i like to jet fat, that way i know im on the safe side.

PM-Performance

i agree i would only do it DP. i only went 60 dry. anything over ,i went super lean. I ran single fogger too for a while. 80-90shot her and there. never a prob with that either, but the thought in my head about puddling made me upgrade again.

BTW yes I was tuned too. Tuning makes all the diff

egsrcx

what would be good fuel management for being properly tuned off bootle and on? would vafc help? are feul pumps and injectors very necessary?

diulay_pkjai

Maybe get some 450cc injectors and tune it with SAFC, one map for nitrous, one for all motor.

crucian

I've ran a 75shot wet setup for a long time before. I have sprayed on the street, on the track, light to light, I missed shifted, sprayed from 2000 rpm and up, you name it I did it. I had a few precutions installed like a MSD window switch and other little things. I ran this setup for more than a year. But anyways, I finally did a few tests on my engine and I can say after spraying everywhere I went, the engine is still like brand new. The different tests I did were, vacuum waveform test with an oscilliscope, compression test, and an engine leakdown test. Like I said, it was like brand new. By the way engine is a stock B16A2 and has 50,000 miles on it. I would say run a wet setup, with fuel pump, FPR, and window switch for miss shifts and you would be just fine.