My question is, do block guards really help support the sleeves at all? I've heard lots of things ranging from: overheating issues, causing hot spots on the sleeves causing them to fail quicker, to nothing at all. I know this is going to be a biased thread, people with blockguards are going to say they are needed and people with out them are going to say they are just there for peace of mind. The reason Im asking this is Im going to start building my block and am on a budget and if this was really worth an option to consider. Thanks!

 

look at the post below yours...no need for one

 

People that still swear by them are misinformed. They actually do more harm than good. If you have the money to make over 600whp then you should have the $$$$ to buy a sleeved block and at this point I'd keep my OE sleeves instead of taking a chance at an aftermarket one sinking.

Phil

 

I dont exactly have a Jeff Evans around here though... Oh yeah, Im shooting for around 350-400whp on stock sleeves with a turbo D and I dont have money for a sleeved block to begin with.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DelSolMike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont exactly have a Jeff Evans around here though... Oh yeah, Im shooting for around 350-400whp on stock sleeves with a turbo D and I dont have money for a sleeved block to begin with.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's some guy named MASE on here that likes to fly places and tune **** . I'm sure he can help you out. Get a group that needs tuning done and pitch in.

Phil

 

i second that all the block guards block coolent flow and pointless.

 

OEM sleeves- 3

Block Guards- 0

 

Blockguards suck, but people who say they block coolant flow need to go brush up on their thermodynamics.

For what's it worth, I'm shooting for 380whp stock d-sleeves on my new build.

 

you guys will reach your stock d sleeve goals with great tuning , but wont last long.

 

id rather rock no blockguard and open sleeves... not becuase of the coolant flow issues (that is just theory to me). When installing a blockguard there are special machining techniques that have to be used to actually have it make a difference. Just hammering it in there isn't doing anything good for you, its actually causing harm. It can cause your cylinders to become "egg" shaped. This info isn't from my personal experience but from the "professionals" in our game that I talked to when doing my research when I started.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hella_JDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you guys will reach your stock d sleeve goals with great tuning , but wont last long.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey, 1999 called - they want their mentality back.

Seriously, why wouldn't it last long? I just sank $4k into my motor, it sure as hell better last.

 

waste of money

 

I personally feel they are a waste of money.

Not gonna get into their ability to work, but just the $$ makes the decision for me.

You need to have the gaurd installed by someone that has done them b4 and will guarentee the work. That will cost $$. The gaurd itself will cost $$.

You will not be as strong as sleeves, noone will deny that.

So you wanna spend money and time on a half-measure? Look at what sleeves cost. Not that much more when you sonsider what you are getting.

 

I have one, being running it for over a year..
No coolant issues, no overheating issues..nothing .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fjt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have one, being running it for over a year..
No coolant issues, no overheating issues..nothing .</TD></TR></TABLE>

I started running hot this summer, but upgrading the radiator fixed it. Other than that, my "incorrectly" installed block guard has not created any problems this past year. No proof that it helped though, either.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cray91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I personally feel they are a waste of money.

Not gonna get into their ability to work, but just the $$ makes the decision for me.

You need to have the gaurd installed by someone that has done them b4 and will guarentee the work. That will cost $$. The gaurd itself will cost $$.

You will not be as strong as sleeves, noone will deny that.

So you wanna spend money and time on a half-measure? Look at what sleeves cost. Not that much more when you sonsider what you are getting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I from what I am now hearing is d-series sleeves wiggle a lot during high boost, causing a lot of head gasket failure. I've also been hearing that they are much more beneficial on d's rather than b's. It wouldn't actually be costing anything other than the price of the block guard. I'd have the machine shop do the work when my block is bored and honed and they said it wouldn't cost anything extra.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by From Turbod16.com "Unsivil_Audio" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Interesting. See, now I look at it the other way. How are all factory turbo cars built? Answer: Solid deck. That means, no coolant passages around the cylinders and they dont have any problems with the longevity of their engines. The way I see it, they're closed deck for a reason. 4g63 comes to mind; it has a perfect r/s of 1.75:1. Solid deck, iron sleeves, iron block. It just runs really hot. But you never see them needing sleeves or having headgasket issues.

As for the different expansion rates; first off its Aluminum that surrounds your factory iron sleeves. Also expansion rates cant matter that much if the put iron sleeves in a aluminum block. In addition, what are block guards made out of? Yep, thats right aluminum. So basically all your doing is making your block a closed (partially at least) deck design. If you have issues with overheating, get a better cooling system; period.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Also I should note, rrussell on turbod16.com has ran 400+whp on his daily driven civic for many years now with just a JG blockguard. Show me a 400+whp setup that was daily driven for years without a blockguard thats still alive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaguyef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> If you have the money to make over 600whp then you should have the $$$$ to buy a sleeved block and at this point I'd keep my OE sleeves instead of taking a chance at an aftermarket one sinking.

Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>


We have never had one sleeve sink or leak that we installed in the past 4 years of installing our kits. We get many blocks here for resleeving that have block guards and cracked cylinders. It better to spend a little more money and get the block sleeved. Then you will know you can beat on the engine as much as you want and not have to worry how much boost your running or if the block is going to hold up or not. Doing it right the first time will save you money over all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Blockguards suck, but people who say they block coolant flow need to go brush up on their thermodynamics.

For what's it worth, I'm shooting for 380whp stock d-sleeves on my new build.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you're goal keeps changing...
and 380 is asking alot out of a d series..

 

ya d-series is just a bad platform. Some people can do it but its just too many problems. The idea of blockgaurds blocking coolant flow is that they take up space where there is normally coolant, that space happens to be one of the hottest parts of the block. From what I have seen personally a D is just not a strong motor, built or not.

 

if money is no issue, offcourse sleeve it. But from where I live, it will cost me at least $900 (including shipping charges) for sleeving the block. Where it will cost me $100 for a blockguard and won't cost me any extra to have it installed since I am getting my block bored and honed anyways.

$800 dollars is not a little bit of money

I say for the ppl that can't afford to sleeve their block, they should get a blockguard for the extra insurance. Just make sure its installed CORRECTLY!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjectDarkBlack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya d-series is just a bad platform. Some people can do it but its just too many problems. The idea of blockgaurds blocking coolant flow is that they take up space where there is normally coolant, that space happens to be one of the hottest parts of the block. From what I have seen personally a D is just not a strong motor, built or not.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How can you say D-series motors aren't strong and are a bad platform to build? Explain. There are a lot of high whp sohc out there. Hell full race is going for 500+ whp on a sohc motor with STOCK sleeves.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Unsivil_audio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also I should note, rrussell on turbod16.com has ran 400+whp on his daily driven civic for many years now with just a JG blockguard. Show me a 400+whp setup that was daily driven for years without a blockguard thats still alive. </TD></TR></TABLE>

fyi he isn't running 400+whp daily
he needs race gas to even do that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fyi he isn't running 400+whp daily
he needs race gas to even do that</TD></TR></TABLE>

At the same time, who does run 400whp everyday? I know I'm not going to; nor would I try it on anything less than 100 octane. But even so, its proven that its not the gas that makes the power; its still the lack of detonation (or resistance to detonation) that racegas gives you. So that fact in itself is pretty irrelevant for this discussion. After all, we're talking about power here, not what octane gas they made that power on.

In addition, you cant tell me he hasnt made multiple drag passes and many dyno runs at 400+whp. Lastly, that car is on its 3rd owner. You cant tell me it hasnt been beaten on also.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Darton Sleeves &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


We have never had one sleeve sink or leak that we installed in the past 4 years of installing our kits. We get many blocks here for resleeving that have block guards and cracked cylinders. It better to spend a little more money and get the block sleeved. Then you will know you can beat on the engine as much as you want and not have to worry how much boost your running or if the block is going to hold up or not. Doing it right the first time will save you money over all.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


I'm so tired of all the company reps that are on H-T these days. Seriously, people here are looking for honest help, not indirect sales pitches.