0operatic

<U>Tools Needed</U>
4mm Allen Wrench
Electrical Tape (1 3/4th length)
C Clamp
Map Gas
Bucket of Water and Ice
Spare Wood / Nails
Hammer

Some Things To Do Before Starting:
Build a crappy wood structure so that you may place the wastegate on top of it. The middle should be big enough so that the valve seat may fall out, but also be able to hold the wastegate on there without falling through.
Should look something like this when you're finished.


Step 1:
Remove the top of the wastegate (4mm allen wrench); I start with two bolts that are parallel to each other. Then I proceed to put the Wastegate into a C-clamp. Tighten that down and take out the remaining bolts.

Step 2:
Now that the top is removed, Grab that electrical tape that is 1 3/4ths in length and mush it into the wastegate. Squeeze it so it enters in from the dump tube area then is squeezed back into a circle shape where it is over the valve seat. Now put the wastegate into the bucket of ice water for 20 minutes.



Step 3:
After that awesome 20 minute coffee break, take out the wastegate and heat up the bottom of the wastegate, mainly the areas where it bolts up to the exhaust manifold (refer to pictures with annoying white/red arrows). I did this for about 5 minutes. Then I placed the wastegate right side up into my wooden contraption and hit placed a piece of wood on top of the spring cup assembly. Then with one swift hit, the valve seat popped out. At this point I put the wastegate and valve seat into the bucket of ice water and let them cool down. After about 5 minutes the wastegate is cool enough to touch again and you can remove the electrical tape.



Step 4:
Leave the valve seat in the ice for 20 minutes. After the wait, heat up the wastegate in the areas mentioned in Step 3. After about 5 minutes of heating up the wastegate, put the valve seat into the wastegate, it slides right in. If not, persuade it with a piece of wood. Once all is said and done, let it sit for about an hour so everything can cool up and fit nicely again.



Also for great reference value, here is Tial's wastegate parts in an easy to read diagram
http://www.tialsport.com/wgassy.html

I know not the greatest pictures, but it will help give anyone that is using this as a good guide.

Adriano

You do know that's a not a good idea to place a really hot metal onto cold water. It's tempers the metal and make it's brittle.

Adriano

DaveF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brryder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You do know that's a not a good idea to place a really hot metal onto cold water. It's tempers the metal and make it's brittle.

Adriano</TD></TR></TABLE>

il second that


also, why take that part out of the wastegate? looks like you unistall, and than install? what gives?

DIRep972

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
also, why take that part out of the wastegate?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

curious too?

b18bturbo

there is really no purpose to take the valve seat out other than clean it but whats gives. I think now if you tried to elimnate and buiild your self a seal then yes that would be kinda nice

0operatic

I actually wrote this because I bought a wastegate and the valve seat was **** eyed and was in there pretty good from the previous owner. I didn't really have to much to work with, no air press, I’m not rich slow poke

This is basically for anyone that buys a tial wastegate on HT or anywhere for that matter and the valve seat is a little messed up. And they feel like tackling the task of removing it and putting a new one in on there own. Besides that, there is really no reason to take out the valve seat.

As for the metal becoming brittle from heating it up and cooling it down in. As far as I know from high school science classes if you heat the metal up once then cool it in water. Then heat it up again and let it cool by itself (no water no nothing, just letting it sit and letting the air cool it), the metal will not becoming brittle at all. It will retain its former strength.

O3DigitalBath

^that last lil thing doesn't make any sense at all to me. How would it get brittle or maybe even warp a lil bit or something then you heat it up again and all the sudden it regains all its strength back? WTF?!?!

...maybe i'm just the trad here but I dont' remember that from school.

0operatic

First off, I am not a master of metals or tempering. This is what I remember from my high school science class.

If you were to heat up a metal once, the tensile strength becomes weak when it is cooled by air. But if you heat it up, cool it in water, then heat it up again and let it cool by letting it sit out. Then the tensile strength, toughness and stability of the metal should be the same if not better. The whole process is called "tempering."

I'm gonna say it again, I am not a master of metals nor do I have a PhD in tempering.

oxSLEEPERxo

valve seat is required right, if u don't have it, you won't boost? am i right?