Its ok. The answer is no, not really. if air velocity is as high as most of these good setups are, there's no noticeable difference in response based upon pipe length. We are so obsessed with recovery (including myself) that we sometimes look in the spots that aren't the most important..

 

Shodan is right. With the volume of air that the turbo moves a couple feet of 3" piping doesn't mean crap.

Depending on the cores size and their density (fin and bar area) that will determine the pressure drop. I know on my drag car with 2 1000hp Garrett A2W cores I see ~.3psi drop across the cores at 35-37psi. Also, at those pressures I am seeing <70 deg F charge temps even if it's 90deg F outside. You can't say that about an A2A.

 

Good question, but who cares?

 

So does i matter if the BOV is inline on the charge pipe or on the IC?

 

Doesn't matter.

 

Let's keep this alive, please.. Tepid1.. You're knowledgeable.. why does it not matter where the BOV is located?

And just to keep pictures alive.

LOWLUDE22's Garrett intercooler before it gets Military Anodized... I'll show an after picture next week. This will be for his silver surfer setup..for over 500whp.





Notice how the louvered fin design is vastly superior to the other bar & plates. Yeah, you're paying for the name, but damn.. its a good product without it being as tall as the Mishimoto

 

I'm not that knowledgeable, but pressure is pressure. Ideally, pressure is the same both pre and post I/C. If there is a pressure delta the higher pressure is typically in the hot side of the I/C due to the restriction of the core.

Side note: I need to call you, Mac. I didn't forget about you and I appreciate your patience.

 

Bumper cover is blocking alot of that big intercooler its got to hurt your IAT/coolant temps, I noticed a big drop when I cut my JDM front integra bumper to allow direct air flow to the entire intercooler core!!! That last 4 inches on the top equates to about 25% of the intercooler.

 

I appreciate the note. Coolant temps are now controlled at 192*F with the installation of a better radiator. (Better core, better coolant passage [2.3" thick over 1.5" C&R makes a big difference]. ) IAT temps so far are not an issue from my reading at under 90*, and if I stay at about 104*-114* at 20-27psi of boost pressure I'll be happy. I probably will not alter the front bumper cover, as that is must for my particular taste and platform. So unless I get a Genuine Mugen (which will block my oil cooler), Backyard Special, or Tracy Sports front bumper, I won't bother.

I did put a Password JDM radiator (diverter) plate on the car.. That did make a difference, and a custom shroud will be made for the new Koyo Radiator.



Like my "True School" GReddy Type R Blow off Valve?

 

I'm looking for a decent vertical flow intercooler core that supports 1000hp to start my nissan build... Thought about using air-water but I don't think I realistically have enough room

 

That will definitely need to be custom made. I believe SPEARCO has good vertical intercooler cores that may fit your build. OR, do like I did in Australia on a Holden we had. 2 smaller intercoolers, one for each turbo. the 300zx and Mitsubishi GTO (3000GT/VR-4) sometimes still usethat approach over a large single
.

 

i was going to use one large core, 2 inlet 1 outlet since i'm using a single plenum intake manifold for the twin turbo build

 

Here is the intercooler I ran last year on my RR integra. Garret core with custom end tanks by SLS. I really liked the IAT's that come from this intercooler but on track it was hard to keep the ECT's where they needed to be. Even with full boxed and ducted bumper-intercooler-radiator we couldn't keep in from slowly creeping ECT temps up and over the limit

 

On the circuit, turbo cars will always need better ducting and cooling than anything NA. What were ECTs getting to on the longer courses?

 

this is why we tend to go v-mount on our nissan builds. anytime you stick something like an intercooler in front of a radiator it inhibits airflow... and the air that reaches the rad has already been pre-heated by the intercooler so ECT rise is inevitable.

A solution is to run better cooling media such as water wetter.. you'll see a 20 degree drop at minimum, also something to consider, if you have an ek/ej civic or jdm itr front, duct the air from the grille directly to the radiator, that will help some as well... If you have a dc teggy and don't mind some trimming, cut out the area of the bumper between the headlights, this will allow for better airflow to the rad as well as nice ambient air, it is a track car after all so its function > form to some extent

 

...or build the turbo kit around your priorities. A full width radiator is always the best solution with acceptable air flow. Too many people stick to the common setups when there are better options for full creature comfort. If it's a track car - GUT EVERYTHING inside and out. Again, back to the purpose built aspect - we are on a Honda forum aren't we???

 

Ducting was pretty good I would have to say... But it wasn't enough. ECT's would reach 228-234 after a few short laps if it was hot outside. Granted I race at Miller Motorsports which is a very very fast track so your on throttle and off with very little part throttle action. We finally figured some things out with the radiator that where not helping the situation and it ran cool for 4 20 min flogs. But ambient temps where 65 since it was the year end race so we decided for a different route.

Water wetter is always a must! haha

V mount would be nice but with the available room and since we will be ducting out the hood there is no way to do it. Going out the hood on a slant setup with a turbo manifold in the way will already be difficult

My turbo setup IS completely built around my priority... nothing was off the self except the turbo and bov lol

These are the only good pictures I can find right now but as you can see it is formed to the bumper with air diverts... Again this all is gone and the setup is COMPLETELY different

 

I agree with you 100% but sometimes budget has to be taken into consideration. Sometimes it's just not in the cards for "purpose built"

I'm glad someone agrees.... I had to argue with one dude about the fact that water wetter would reduce ECT's just by using it...

another idea is this. Sierra Sierra did this on their evo

the ducts you see route high pressure air to where its needed. You could fab this up with some sheet aluminum no issue and route it directly to the rad.

Of course how they fabbed their front bumper cover pretty much eliminates most airflow issues. I personally wouldn't use the ducting you have now like it sits. I would also cut out the front bumper cover in between the headlights where the acura badge is and duct it in as well... You'll be hard pressed to get a more direct, high pressure source of ambient air than that

or another idea is use the ducting material used for oil cooler ducts and brake cooler hoses and mount them behind the front bumper cover where they can get clean ambient air, use 2 brake duct fans and route air directly to the radiator

 

I looked at there setup a while back, It is quite the car haha. I like the idea for sure but from the tons and tons of reading I have done I am going with a slant setup boxed in and vent out the hood. The venting threw the hood gives a good amount of down force and make the cooling system quite a bit more efficient.

I was using a pretty cheap radiator core and so that had a bit of reasoning behind me ditching that setup as I was suspicious that it could of been contributing to and compounding my issues.

 

yea that will help keep the car planted at higher speeds, also the pressure drop at the hood vent will help force more air through the ducting to radiator since it's basically getting sucked through the system

 

That's exactly why I have a vented hood on the JDM integra

 

I ran one also last year and I am sure it helped but it never was ducted on the back half to get the major benefits. I am still waiting on my new setup... got to love 3 week eta and we are approaching 4 months

 

The intercooler on my Mini is...well...mini. I saw where a gentleman with a Lotus Elise mounted a 7" Fluidyne fan on his. I think I'm going to do the same thing. I have just enough room under the intercooler to mount a similar fan. I found a Spal fan that is about the right size. I'm sectioning an aluminum carburetor scoop to the same dimensions as the intercooler and mounting it to the hood. It should look pretty good and since the hood falls away pretty abruptly, it should also be in clean air.

As always, it's not the part it's how you mount it. I found a zip tie mounting kit that also includes springs. Since the fan weighs about 1.5 pounds I think hanging it fro the bottom of the intercooler should work. I'm likely to use a 30 second delay relay so it doesn't draw on the battery during engine start.

I'm not particularly fond of the zip tie fan to the radiator mount but my main radiator fan is also mounted that way and seems to be OK. There's just no room for much else.

Anyone had a fan tie damage a radiator?

 

Heres my Vecco, core is 22x8x3.5 plan on running 25psi on a 6162. 500whp +

 

How could I clean the inside of it?