I have a direct port wet system and also a hondata s300. I tried to wire up the nitrous controler through the ecu, per the wiring diagram on the hondata site, instead of using the WOT switch and msd window switch that I had. Although I think I got the wiring right, the solenoids would open when I turned the ignition switch on, overriding the arming switch and the ecu programed activation and making the hondata controler more than useless.

Hondata says I should consider making the system a dry one and see if I have better luck but I've never heard of dry direct port. Has anyone done this or gotten the hondata nitrous control to work with a wet kit? Maybe the ecu can't handle the draw of two solenoids but will work with one?

Here's a picture of the set up before I re-bent the lines to have equal length and moved the fuel solenoid to the nitrous block.

 

If I called someone and they said that I would tell them im mailing that **** back to them. 12volts is 12 volts playa! You can hook them up together and they should turn on together regardless. Seems you called the wrong guys or have your wiring wrong I got mine on the peddle with a bracket cause my ride has CARBS and they are hoocked together to the same 12v and wide open switch so it doesnt matter.

 

that wet system should work fine

 

Alright couple things.

If the ecu can handle one solenoid it can handle two. It is as simple as wiring in a relay. All you are doing is triggering the solenoids not powering them. I would check your wirirng.

Secondly, The reason the hondata guys suggest going with a dry direct port setup is because the hondata nitrous control has the ability to add fuel through the injectors. It eliminates extra parts (fuel solenoid) that could fail in your setup as well as simplifying your setup.

Good luck.

 

I followed the hondata wiring diagram so the wire from A20 PCS on the ecu to the solenoids does run through a relay. The only difference in my set up from the diagram is the activation switch. My lighted arming switch has three wires; ground, ignition switched 12 volts and the wire to the WOT switch, which I removed and attached that wire to B8. On the diagram, the switch just has a ground and then the wire to pinout B8. Maybe I should remove one of the switch wires and see if it'll work with out the switch light.

 

just hook it to the horn button like i do..

 

left horn button for stage 1 and right button for stage 2, don't you old people watch fast and the furious?

emailing you now dan

 

Nah, I got mine hooked to the cruise control.



Eddie - thanks for the email. I'm going to try and give you a call later. Still have a couple of questions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ridewhencan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I followed the hondata wiring diagram so the wire from A20 PCS on the ecu to the solenoids does run through a relay. The only difference in my set up from the diagram is the activation switch. My lighted arming switch has three wires; ground, ignition switched 12 volts and the wire to the WOT switch, which I removed and attached that wire to B8. On the diagram, the switch just has a ground and then the wire to pinout B8. Maybe I should remove one of the switch wires and see if it'll work with out the switch light.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So basically, the ECU is sending +12v to the relay whenever the ignition is turned on? Or is it supposed to ground the relay when the nitrous is activated? I'm working on a theory here...

 

Now the ecu is sending 12v to the relay when the ignition is turned on so the solenoids open. What the system is suppose to do is two fold: first, the arming switch/input to the ecu at B8 is suppose to "arm" the ecu, the same way you would directly arm the nitrous system; Second, once armed and a certain set of parameters are met in the s300, the ecu grounds the relay via output from A20 and, zoila.

After talking with eddie I realized I may have improperly check the "invert output" or "invert input" box before I uploaded the calibration. I might enable the nitrous control with both boxes unchecked and see if the solenoids still open.

What's your theory?

 

you have the wires back or something. i recently tuned a car with s200 & hondata. we had a switch for 12v manually. the ecu was a grounded control with the s200. So it would ground the selenoids. this is why we had a manual 12v switch as well. But the system shoudl work fine. you set your critials. You ahve your arming switch which is just shooting the ground to the desinated pin you want. then you have the output which grounds the selenoid. worked perfectly on the car i tuned. It was a wet system as well. I prefer wet systems, as with the hondata setup you can still fine tune a/f, but you don't have to guess as much with that first shot to think how much injector duration you have to add.

 

Pretty much what you described.

 

Here’s what worked for me, in case anyone else has the same issue. Invert both the ecu input and output in the sManager and run the B8/PSP wire through a switch to a chassis ground. The switch arms the system but the light doesn’t come on. That threw me off at first. Thanks for the help.

 

talk to 1700andropping (sp?). he helped me out on nitrous alot!

 

Been so long from when i did my nitrous though the hondata, but i think this is how i did it.

The B5 or B8 wire/pin comes from ecu though a switch used to arm (toggle switch) or trigger (push button switch like horn) the system then to ground.

Then you have a Second switch with a 12 volt supplie going though your relay then to the ecu A15 or A20 wire/pin.

When the ecu have its 12 volt output to ground (pin B5/B8) and it has min rpm and vac and wot as entered in to the ecu ( for example 4000 rpm at 710mbar and 80% throttle and 6mph) it will let the 12 volt input (A15/A20 go though the ecu to ground), letting the relay open and the solenoids open.

You can use it to work a wet or dry kit as long as on the wet kit you tell the ecu not to put any more fuel in, it should work fine.

Hope this helped you.

 

wow...where did you get that colour on your valve cover from???