DaX

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man! It's been fun to be older and have more money and patience this time around.

I probably didn't have something set right. It ran fine in open loop all day today, so I may leave it like that for now and mess with it over time, or just leave it like that until I have it tuned.

I got the power ran to the ethanol gauge tonight, so it lights up, but like the boost gauge, the sensor is not installed yet.

Txdragon

Yes. Run it open until it's properly tuned. Closed loop can't really be run right out of the box now. Need settings such as the corrections and such. I don't have my laptop in front of me right now to go over Neptune stuff.. Anyways.. It needs tuning, good sir!

NVturbo

is that radiator from GAW?

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Yes. I bought the radiator with the shroud, and had it drilled to fit a SPAL fan. Greg also welded a -6AN bung to the bottom tank for a turbo water line.

Balor_Gr

Things are going better and better.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

So I've got my intake manifold (stock Z6) off to make room for getting all my fuel upgrades on, and to clean up some of the engine bay wiring. I'm thinking of tapping / plugging the unused ports on the intake manifold and throttle body. Anyone else done this? Here's what I'm thinking:

1. PCV nipple on intake manifold - cut off steel nipple, drill and tap for 1/8" NPT, plug it.
2. Stock FPR nipple on intake manifold - I'm going to use the nipple that did go to the purge solenoid for the FPR since it will now be firewall mounted. For the old nipple, cut it off, drill / tap / plug, but what size? I don't think I can get a pipe tap that small. May just tap it one of the smaller metric screw sizes and plug it with a screw/bolt with loctite.
3. Charcoal canister nipple on throttle body - this is before the throttle plate, so no issues driving around NA, but would be a boost leak once I'm turbo. Similar to #2, probably just cut it of, drill/tap/plug with M6x1.0 or something like that.

Thoughts?

Txdragon

They sell rubber caps for those at the parts store.. Box of assorted size is about 5 or 6 bucks. I have used them with wonderful success!

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Boost won't blow them off?

ohisofly

^ I bought a big assorted box of those rubber caps on eBay a few years ago to use specifically for plugging those random intake ports that are no longer needed. I usually put a small zip tie on them just to make sure they don't go anywhere.

Txdragon

Not at all. As said below also, a small zip tie can help ease any lingering worry. The only concern is that you keep an eye on them for cracking over time. I noticed one day I had some slight idle hunting that got worse over a couple days and turns out I had a cracked port cap. Applied new cap, no more surge. Lol! Beats drilling and tapping any day!!

DaX

iTrader: (1)

^^Thanks for the suggestion on the caps, guys.

I've been working on the car the last couple of evenings. I had to get a buddy to weld an extension onto my FPR bracket so I could mount it here - the original holes in the bracket would have been right over where the wiper arm connects to the body and I couldn't have bolted through. I now have my flex fuel sensor where I want it and my braided return line from that to the stock hard line made. I'm waiting on my battery tray to be modified to add a mount for my fuel filter before I can finish plumbing the engine bay. Tonight I pulled the fuel pump hanger and installed the Walbro 450. I was going to build my own relay harness, but just broke down and bought the Burton Racing one - hope to start installing it tomorrow.

Txdragon

Nice! That 450 is gonna sing you some sweet lullabies!!

2x0

Very nice fuel system setup!


I just relayed my pump using a standard 30 amp relay from Oreillys.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I got the Burton-Racing fuel pump harness mostly installed tonight - it's put together very well and I'm pretty happy with it. I wish there were somewhere else to ground the pump besides the bolt that holds the rear seat cushion down. I guess it's not too big of a deal, and the cushion stays down on its own for the most part. The rubber grommet that goes through the cover over the fuel pump is 25 years old and pretty stiff - there was no way I was getting the wires and plugs on the new harness through, so I had to split it, slide it around the wires, and tape it back up. I am keeping all the stuff under my dash, so the best place I came up with to mount the relay and fuse was on the SRS module cover. The relay is slightly visible in the passenger floorboard, but it's out of the way. I ran the wires under the carpet down beside the center tunnel and back to the fuel pump. I'm running all my wiring for my add-ons through the former cruise control cable hole in the firewall, and the harness has enough length to get to the positive battery terminal.

I also got my hard line in the engine bay cut off and the -6AN union installed.

Txdragon

Go go go!!! Coming out good. You have much more patience than I do for wiring. Lol!

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man! I laid out on paper all the stuff I'd need to build a good wiring harness like the Burton-Racing one and it was a little more than half of what the Burton one cost (mostly due to shipping). It was easier to just buy it built, and I don't mind supporting the little guys.

Thanks man! I have done the "good enough" wiring before, and want this one to be pretty clean. I spent all day working on the car and knocked out about half of my laundry list to get it back on the road. I finished the fuel pump wiring. This car was FILTHY when I bought it due to being driven down a dirt road every day, so I spent a while cleaning the area under the windshield where the wiper motor goes - I'm really happy how well it cleaned up. I drilled 3 of the 6 holes in the GEM vacuum manifold and mounted it. I spent a while cleaning up the engine bay wiring - this included routing/wrapping all the additional wires for the gauge sensors, fuel pump, flex-fuel sensor, wideband, etc. I pulled the engine harness and removed completely the wiring for the 4-wire o2 and the EVAP solenoid, then added a ground from the thermostat housing to the wideband controller, and added a Delphi connector so that the harness can still be easily removed. After tidying up the engine bay wiring, I reinstalled the IM, installed the GEM fuel rail, and made the rail to FPR fuel hose. I also found those vacuum caps and zip tied them on - thanks again for the suggestion, because I would have been drilling and tapping otherwise. I've still got a bunch to do, and hope to have it back on the road in a week or two. I felt like today I got over the hump of work that needed to be done for the fuel system. Saving $ for the turbo and tuning!

maxwellmercer

Progress is looking great. I too just installed the Burton fuel pump kit this weekend, was very very pleased with how easy it was to install! Not to mention the immediate improvements it made. Excited to see this coming together!

Autoworks

Super clean work man!

Txdragon

Gonna look butter smooth with that x500 kit! You planning on an intake mani at all? I almost forgotten how small the stocker is vs the S2. Lol!

93grayeg

iTrader: (1)

Looks great!

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Yeah, I agree, the kit made it pretty pain free.

Thanks for the props, and for the parts!

Thanks! Nope, planning to keep the stock IM - it does look small. I don't think it will prevent me from reaching 300 whp, so I won't plan to upgrade it until after turbo, wheels, tires, suspension, etc.

Thanks!

DaX

iTrader: (1)

So, I get not running the coolant lines to the IACV - no big deal, but will the FITV still function correctly without coolant lines? I mean, isn't the whole purpose of the FITV to allow fast idle until the coolant warms up, then it drops the idle to normal? I just don't see how that would work without coolant lines, but I sure would like to delete that line for a slightly cleaner looking bay.

Txdragon

I'm running the skunk2 TB and it doesn't even have the FITV. I did that delete before then though. You really shouldn't have any issues but may need to make adjustments to your idle. I honestly don't remember if I had to adjust anything at all when I did the coolant line delete. **shrug**

JRCivic1

DaX, in colder weather, the lack of fluid flow to the FITV wax plate will SLOW the transition from a higher idle to the normal operating temperature idle speed, but ultimately, the aluminum gets hot enough through transfer to do the same thing as the coolant does. During the warmer times of the year... you probably won't even notice the difference.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Appreciate the input guys. I may just go ahead and delete the coolant hoses for that.