DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
#1
DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Well, it's been nearly 15 years since I was in the turbo Honda game, but I'm back. In 2004 I built a turbo B18A1 (stock bottom end) and put it in a 92 VX that ran 240 whp / 236 wtq. It was tons of fun, but I blew it up within a year, lost the desire to keep spending money on it, and parted it out. I was a poor college student on a tight budget, and it just didn't work out. Since then I have just been throwing the miles on my daily driver - a work-horse 90 Civic DX sedan with a SOHC ZC (non-VTEC) and Si transmission that has 423,000+ miles on it (223,000 of those miles by me). The engine is getting tired, so I was originally just going to rebuild the ZC back to stock, but I ended up buying my sister's 94 Civic EX coupe (single owner), so project car time. I've decided to build the D16Z6 and turbocharge it. My goal is something between a 3-day-a-week car to a daily driver for my 30 mile round-trip commute to and from work, with occasional trips to see family about 150 miles away. Reliability and creature comforts like a full interior and air conditioning are a must. I'll be happy with somewhere around 300 whp on 93 octane (maybe E85?), and my expectations will be exceeded with 350-400 whp.
This will be a 3-phase build to spread out the costs. Phase 1 will be building the engine and transmission to hold high horsepower (doing all the stuff that requires major disassembly), with a goal of having a driveable car at the completion of the phase - built motor and transmission but stock otherwise. Phase 2 will be adding components that will eventually be needed for turbo while the car is driveable. Phase 3 will finally be turbocharging the engine and tuning.
So, there's my introduction post for this build. Appreciate any input / guidance the H-T world may have for me, especially regarding turbo choice and manifold choice. Help me not waste $ buying things I don't need, lol.
In August 2019 I made 316 whp / 310 wtq with the Turbonetics TNX 20/60 ball bearing turbo (VTEC wasn't activating)
In August 2020 I made 401 whp / 327 wtq with the Turbonetics TNX C15 5/257 ball bearing turbo and ran 11.680 @ 118.31 mph (1/4 mile)
Current State:
Personal Best: 11.680 @ 118.31 mph (1/4 mile) in August 2021.
This will be a 3-phase build to spread out the costs. Phase 1 will be building the engine and transmission to hold high horsepower (doing all the stuff that requires major disassembly), with a goal of having a driveable car at the completion of the phase - built motor and transmission but stock otherwise. Phase 2 will be adding components that will eventually be needed for turbo while the car is driveable. Phase 3 will finally be turbocharging the engine and tuning.
So, there's my introduction post for this build. Appreciate any input / guidance the H-T world may have for me, especially regarding turbo choice and manifold choice. Help me not waste $ buying things I don't need, lol.
In August 2019 I made 316 whp / 310 wtq with the Turbonetics TNX 20/60 ball bearing turbo (VTEC wasn't activating)
In August 2020 I made 401 whp / 327 wtq with the Turbonetics TNX C15 5/257 ball bearing turbo and ran 11.680 @ 118.31 mph (1/4 mile)
Current State:
Personal Best: 11.680 @ 118.31 mph (1/4 mile) in August 2021.
- Turbo
Turbonetics TNX 20/60|Turbonetics TNX C15 52/57 ball bearing turbo| Precision 5858Autoworks V2 cast manifold| Autoworks AC-friendly ramhorn- Tial MV-S 38mm WG
- Tial BOV
Autoworks M intercooler| Autoworks GTC-600 intercooler- 2.5 to 3 inch downpipe w/ recirculating dump
- 2 inch hot side / 2.5 inch cold side charge pipe
- 3 inch intake
- Bottom End
- D16 block with CSS
Standard 10mm ARP head studs| 11mm ARP head studs (for PT Cruiser) torqued to 87 ft-lb- Eagle H-beam rods
- 75.5mm CP pistons, 9.0:1 C/R
- ACL Race bearings
- Cylinder Head
- Z6 head, stock ports
- Ferrea 6000 valves and locks
- Supertech springs, Ti retainers, and seals
Comp 59300 cam|Stock Z6 cam| Delta 272-2 camOEM head gasket|Golden Eagle 76mm head gasket| JE Pro Seal 76mm head gasket
- Air / Fuel / Engine Management
- P28 / Hondata S300v3 / BBG
- Hondata 4 bar MAP sensor
ID1000 fuel injectors| ID1700x fuel injectors- Walbro 450 fuel pump / OEM fuel sock / Burton-Racing relay harness
- -6AN PTFE engine bay fuel lines (stock lines from tank to bay)
- Grams 20 micron fuel filter
- GEM fuel rail
- Aeromotive 13129 FPR
- GM flex fuel sensor
- PLX wideband
- Innovate Motorsports ethanol content gauge
GEM vacuum manifold- Autometer SpekPro boost and oil pressure gauges
- Autoworks catch can
- SpeedFactory thermal IM gasket
OEM IM| Skunk2 Pro IM, Stage 1 porting by Bad Guys WorldwideOEM TB| Skunk2 70mm Alpha TBOEM TB gasket| Skunk2 thermal TB gasket
- Exhaust
- 3 inch Thermal R&D cat-back
- Cooling
- Autoworks dual core radiator and shroud
- SPAL 12" fan (P/N 30102029) with relay and 12 AWG wire
- Stant 23 psi radiator cap
- Transmission / Drivetrain
S20 EX transmission| S40 EX transmission- Competition Clutch Stage 4 (sprung disc)
D-series mFactory helical LSD| DOHC ZC mFactory helical LSD- Synchrotech Pro-series carbon synchros
- Hasport 62A mounts (no torque mounts)
Parts-Store D-series axles|Insane Shafts 500hp D-series axles| Parts-store axles w/ hydro ZC half shaft- Passenger axle is a 3rd gen (86-89) Accord passenger axle
- Driver axle is a 3rd gen (86-89) Accord passenger axle with an inner joint from a B-series driver axle
- Wheels/Tires/Suspension
OEM shocks| Progress CS2 coilovers (350/350)- VMS Modulo wheels, 15x7
- Nitto NeoGen tires, 205/50/R15
- VMS Modulo wheels (for the drag strip), 13x8
- M&H Racemaster slicks, 23x8x13
Last edited by DaX; 11-26-2023 at 12:39 PM.
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: D16Z6 build - older, but maybe not any wiser
welcome back! I just recently made the come back myself, you can see my thread (making my return to the fold) I also have been a site member for many years and I had a very similar setup as you back in the days. Parts are way easier to come by these days!
Last edited by TheShodan; 11-02-2018 at 09:32 AM. Reason: Simplify response
#4
re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Thanks, and yes, 93 octane is abundant where I live so that's what I plan on running.
A few pointed questions now that I have had some time to think about it since writing the post:
A buddy gave me some parts this week also, a cast turbo manifold and a beat up intercoooler. He said despite the dents, the intercooler doesn't leak. The intercooler is 'JDM Sport' brand, and measures 2.25" thick x 21" long to the tanks, with 2.5" inlet/outlet. He said the manifold should work with AC. Honest opinions - should I ditch either / both of these components for better ones? I've been reading and folks seem to not like the cast manifolds with the WG on the #4 runner, which is what this one is.
A few pointed questions now that I have had some time to think about it since writing the post:
- In-tank 320 lph pump should be plenty, correct? Any reason to avoid the AEM or Aeromotive in-tank pumps?
- Should I even spend $ on an adjustable fuel pressure regulator? I know I had one on my last turbo build, but can someone explain why the OEM one isn't sufficient?
- Will a 2.5 inch exhaust work for my goals, or will it choke the turbo down too much?
A buddy gave me some parts this week also, a cast turbo manifold and a beat up intercoooler. He said despite the dents, the intercooler doesn't leak. The intercooler is 'JDM Sport' brand, and measures 2.25" thick x 21" long to the tanks, with 2.5" inlet/outlet. He said the manifold should work with AC. Honest opinions - should I ditch either / both of these components for better ones? I've been reading and folks seem to not like the cast manifolds with the WG on the #4 runner, which is what this one is.
#5
Honda-Tech Member
re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Thanks, and yes, 93 octane is abundant where I live so that's what I plan on running.
A few pointed questions now that I have had some time to think about it since writing the post:
A buddy gave me some parts this week also, a cast turbo manifold and a beat up intercoooler. He said despite the dents, the intercooler doesn't leak. The intercooler is 'JDM Sport' brand, and measures 2.25" thick x 21" long to the tanks, with 2.5" inlet/outlet. He said the manifold should work with AC. Honest opinions - should I ditch either / both of these components for better ones? I've been reading and folks seem to not like the cast manifolds with the WG on the #4 runner, which is what this one is.
A few pointed questions now that I have had some time to think about it since writing the post:
- In-tank 320 lph pump should be plenty, correct? Any reason to avoid the AEM or Aeromotive in-tank pumps?
- Should I even spend $ on an adjustable fuel pressure regulator? I know I had one on my last turbo build, but can someone explain why the OEM one isn't sufficient?
- Will a 2.5 inch exhaust work for my goals, or will it choke the turbo down too much?
A buddy gave me some parts this week also, a cast turbo manifold and a beat up intercoooler. He said despite the dents, the intercooler doesn't leak. The intercooler is 'JDM Sport' brand, and measures 2.25" thick x 21" long to the tanks, with 2.5" inlet/outlet. He said the manifold should work with AC. Honest opinions - should I ditch either / both of these components for better ones? I've been reading and folks seem to not like the cast manifolds with the WG on the #4 runner, which is what this one is.
2. I would use a regulator, with the single pump/1000s even the AEM on rail will be sufficient.
3. 2.5" will for for your goal.
4. I would not use that cast manifold; WG position and downpipe clearance on that one both "could be much better". That beat tube and fin FMIC could also be better...
#6
re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
1. Both of those pumps will work fine.
2. I would use a regulator, with the single pump/1000s even the AEM on rail will be sufficient.
3. 2.5" will for for your goal.
4. I would not use that cast manifold; WG position and downpipe clearance on that one both "could be much better". That beat tube and fin FMIC could also be better...
2. I would use a regulator, with the single pump/1000s even the AEM on rail will be sufficient.
3. 2.5" will for for your goal.
4. I would not use that cast manifold; WG position and downpipe clearance on that one both "could be much better". That beat tube and fin FMIC could also be better...
#7
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Thanks, and yes, 93 octane is abundant where I live so that's what I plan on running.
A few pointed questions now that I have had some time to think about it since writing the post:
A few pointed questions now that I have had some time to think about it since writing the post:
- In-tank 320 lph pump should be plenty, correct? Any reason to avoid the AEM or Aeromotive in-tank pumps?
- Should I even spend $ on an adjustable fuel pressure regulator? I know I had one on my last turbo build, but can someone explain why the OEM one isn't sufficient?
- Will a 2.5 inch exhaust work for my goals, or will it choke the turbo down too much?
2. No need for an adjustable regulator, especially if you'll be running 1000cc injectors. My setup was close to 350 on 750cc and I'm on the stock rail and regulator (40% duty cycle WOT 17 PSI 4th gear @6k RPM).
3. 2.5" exhaust should do fine as well. Mine is 2.75 and didn't **seem** to be a choke point. If 300 is all you're looking for, 2.5 would be sufficient.
Trending Topics
#8
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Started pulling the motor today. I'm looking for opinions on running a stock head vs. spending the money now and putting in Ferrea 6000 valves and Supertech springs. Will the stock valves / springs limit me in any significant way below 400 whp?
#9
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
I am IMPRESSED with the strength of the stock valves. I had recently installed a comp cam and my timing belt slipped a couple teeth. Valves contacted pistons (i later discovered) I cracked 2 of the pistons; in fact the only 2 that contacted valves, and the valves came out unscathed. There is also tons of folks that have ran a comp 59300 cam on stock Z6 springs with no troubles. Lots more that have revved to 7500 and beyond. I'd vote upgraded springs if you intend on running over stock revs with a cam though, just for good measure. The Ferrea 6000 are a good choice to upgrade if you choose to do so. Either OEM or Ferrea 6k are good for your goal.
On another note, I have an extra comp 59300, brand new in box, if you're interested!
#10
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Thanks for the input. I'd rather spend the $ elsewhere, but don't want to regret not doing it while the head is off the car. For now I'll just roll with the stock setup. I came home this evening to my ECU being back from Hondata - I sent it in to be recapped. I should have the engine out tomorrow night - all that's left are axles, shift linkage, and exhaust.
Thanks for the offer on the cam - PM me some details. Honestly though, unless it's a killer deal, I don't think I'll jump on it right now. I've got $ flying all over the place and want to get a running engine back in the car before I start buying "nice to haves", if you know what I mean.
Not particularly, no. The Z6 springs are pretty stout actually. If you're running the stock cam and rev limit, they'll be fine.
I am IMPRESSED with the strength of the stock valves. I had recently installed a comp cam and my timing belt slipped a couple teeth. Valves contacted pistons (i later discovered) I cracked 2 of the pistons; in fact the only 2 that contacted valves, and the valves came out unscathed. There is also tons of folks that have ran a comp 59300 cam on stock Z6 springs with no troubles. Lots more that have revved to 7500 and beyond. I'd vote upgraded springs if you intend on running over stock revs with a cam though, just for good measure. The Ferrea 6000 are a good choice to upgrade if you choose to do so. Either OEM or Ferrea 6k are good for your goal.
On another note, I have an extra comp 59300, brand new in box, if you're interested!
I am IMPRESSED with the strength of the stock valves. I had recently installed a comp cam and my timing belt slipped a couple teeth. Valves contacted pistons (i later discovered) I cracked 2 of the pistons; in fact the only 2 that contacted valves, and the valves came out unscathed. There is also tons of folks that have ran a comp 59300 cam on stock Z6 springs with no troubles. Lots more that have revved to 7500 and beyond. I'd vote upgraded springs if you intend on running over stock revs with a cam though, just for good measure. The Ferrea 6000 are a good choice to upgrade if you choose to do so. Either OEM or Ferrea 6k are good for your goal.
On another note, I have an extra comp 59300, brand new in box, if you're interested!
Thanks for the offer on the cam - PM me some details. Honestly though, unless it's a killer deal, I don't think I'll jump on it right now. I've got $ flying all over the place and want to get a running engine back in the car before I start buying "nice to haves", if you know what I mean.
#11
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Thanks for the input. I'd rather spend the $ elsewhere, but don't want to regret not doing it while the head is off the car. For now I'll just roll with the stock setup. I came home this evening to my ECU being back from Hondata - I sent it in to be recapped. I should have the engine out tomorrow night - all that's left are axles, shift linkage, and exhaust.
Thanks for the offer on the cam - PM me some details. Honestly though, unless it's a killer deal, I don't think I'll jump on it right now. I've got $ flying all over the place and want to get a running engine back in the car before I start buying "nice to haves", if you know what I mean.
Thanks for the input. I'd rather spend the $ elsewhere, but don't want to regret not doing it while the head is off the car. For now I'll just roll with the stock setup. I came home this evening to my ECU being back from Hondata - I sent it in to be recapped. I should have the engine out tomorrow night - all that's left are axles, shift linkage, and exhaust.
Thanks for the offer on the cam - PM me some details. Honestly though, unless it's a killer deal, I don't think I'll jump on it right now. I've got $ flying all over the place and want to get a running engine back in the car before I start buying "nice to haves", if you know what I mean.
#13
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
That one I don't quite have the answer to. From my understanding, stock keepers will work fine, just get some new ones if they're seriously aged.
#14
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NAPTOWN, IN, USA
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Glad to see even more people getting back into the Honda scene! Looks like we have several good builds going on the forums now!
#17
#21
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Awwwww yeah! Let the fun begin!
#23
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Finished tearing the block down this evening. I'll package it up in the morning and ship it off for CSS. Also hoping to get the valve cover and oil pan cleaned and boxed up in the morning to send off for modification.
#24
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Can't wait to see the block after CSS!
#25
Re: DaX's D16Z6 turbocharger build - older, but maybe not any wiser
Block, oil pan, and valve cover are in the mail. I figured I'd start working on getting the LSD installed in the transmission today and ran into my first snag. I'm running into issues with the OEM bolts being tight when threading into the LSD, like it's the wrong pitch threads. Also, it appears that the heads of the bolt are in contact with the body of the LSD when they start threading in. I have verified that the bolts are still tight in all the holes when trying to thread them in from the back side of the LSD, to ensure it isn't just the heads of the bolts contacting the body of the LSD that's making them tight. Yes...I know they are left hand threaded. Is there something I'm missing here? I've reached out to OBX, and am waiting to hear back from them.