Hey i was trying to find what people think about Dart Blocks? Im thinking about getting one and building it up for some Boost.

 

You don't build it up you put it together. Great thing if your have the money.

 

They are real expensive. Unless you are really really serious about doing some really really serious boosting, I think a GE or Darton block will provide the same ends for much less $$.

 

you think GE could? yeah i was thinking about boosting about 18psi daily driving and about 25psi at the track. Its going to be a b20/vtec.

 

Yes, GE does good work. They gaurentee their blocks up to 45 psi. something like that.

I am not sure about the darton warrantee.

 

18 psi daily??? what are you thinking and have you researched what you wanna do, 25 psi on the track means you are gonna have a turbo with a good amount of power so 18 psi on the street i bet wont be usable unless you are on slicks!! just my 2 cents!!

 

yeah well i have talked to a tuner here in NC and he told me that i might have that problem getting the power to the ground but he said that they could maybe put a speed senor on the car so i dont spin out all day.

Yeha i was thinking about goign GE cuz i can get a b20 block for 600.00 and the got my other stuff. Then i saw the Dart Blocks and was wondering thats all


[Modified by Soon_2b_evil, 7:56 PM 1/13/2003]

 

dude,
are you seriously this stupid??? what the hell is a speed sensor tha will help the car hook up better??

please tell me where i can buy one??

DAMN NOOBS!!!!!

 

ROFLMAO!!!!!

thats gotta be the dumbest thing i have ever heard! well maybe......

 

Why's it so stupid. With a speed sensor you could run a variable boost system, like the Blitz Boost controller that works with their little g-tech thingy. Boost goes up as speed goes up which acts like a traction control!

 

Fit a very small wastegate, say 4 psi.

A setup on an ABS car to cut boost when the front wheels start spinning, by cutting off the boost controller or bypassing it with a solenoid, is not terribly difficult.

A setup on a non-ABS car where you mount a sensor on a rear wheel and compare it to VSS signal to do the same is marginally harder.

 

It makes some sense actually...the by speed sensor I assume he means some sort of traction control.

 

It really isn't that stupid at all. The Apexi AVC-R has gear determined boost control, something that uses the same principle but with speed is not a bad idea either.

5PSI up to 35MPH
10PSI 36MPH to 55MPH

Something like that. It could work.

 

Isn't there a kit for traction control that works sith speed sensors on the wheels? 18PSI is a bit exsessive though. Please don't kill your-self driving it when your done.

 

Retail is $1,995 with darton sleeves.

 

Tatal $1300~ for a stacked sleeved LS block.

 

I know it's cheaper for a used b-series block...

But a brand new block for $2G's isn't bad especially fi you don't have a b-series block to start with.

Plus these features are nice.

* brand new casting from Dart
* larger water jackets for cooling
* Only 5lbs heavier than a sleeved LS/B20 block
* The block is made form 355 T6 virgin alloy, the material alone is 4x stronger than the material Honda uses on the stock block.
* The main caps are not only dowled like the stock block but also side registered.

 

i think it may be cheaper to have a spare B series block to salvage all the OEM parts you are going to need off to get the DART block to work. From what I have been told it has no:

-oil pan
-oil pickup
-oil pump
-water pump
-crank
-crank gear & pully (very expensive new)
-thermostat housing, thermostat
-head
-timing belt tensioner
-gaskets

I am sure there is more you would need.

 

Yep. You will need alot more.

 

You probably own a Honda Block with most of those items now, or would replace them with new anyway. I would get the Dart.

OK I really just want someone to buy it before me so I can see what it's like!

 

Why is this stupid? Because you don't know how to do it? Albeit the guy that posted the original question doesn't sound like he could do something like that, but maybe his mechanic could - who knows. It's not that unheard of in various professional motorsports.

Just because some company doesn't make some overpriced/overhyped magical shrinkwrapped device, it doesn't mean something can't be made on your own. Most of the devices that we buy really aren't that complicated to make.

Knowledge is king...

 

yeha all that stuff you can use your stock parts but the thing that gets me is that the block is a little longer then the stock block. So i would have to get longer rods.

 

yeha i think im about to get a dart block. I found out that i can get one for 1600. He also told me if i wanted to bore it out it can go up to a 2.5 and more. Damn didnt think i could do that. So what do you think? What would be wrong if i was to bore it out to a 2.5 and then forced Induction?

 

2.5 what? mm or inches? MM aren't that big, and from stock bore that's 83.5mm. If your going with B16/18 sizes. B20 would be like 86.5mm which you're going to have problems with combustion stabilty, and finding pistons that big.

Go with either 83mm or 84mm it's easier to find pistons then. I thought Payn offered rods to go with the taller blocks? If not Endyn makes longer rod combos I don't know if they have them for this application though.

 

different deck heights are available. Dont foprget you still need a crank there pal. the block is nice and all but you neeed a crank to make it work lol. buying a b20 and resleeving is stupid. Buy an ls motor for 1/3 the price and sleeve that. same exact thing.