Dart b20+ block
02-15-2009, 01:09 PM
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Dart b20+ block
hey everyone
I've got a few questions about darts block. I've been considering it for my next build, but I've been reading reviews on it and have seen some isues with cooling. if anyone has used this block before please let me know. I was also wondering how much boost that it can hold up safely. do you have to run as a ls/vtec. so far my idea goes as folows.
dart b20+ block bored to 85mm
eagle b18c lightened crankshaft
custom crower titanium rods (152.4mm)
je 9:1 comp. pistons top and side coated
b16 portflow head
supertech valve springs
supertech titanium retainers
ferra valves (1mm oversized)
AIR carbon fiber intake manifold
75mm throttle body
1600cc injectors
ctr/itr oil and water pump
full race topmount t4 devided manifold
4" downpipe to full 4" straight pipe
gt42r twin scroll ball bearing turbo
twin tial 44mm v-band wastegates
tial 50mm blowoff valve
hondata s300 w/boost option
itr transmission with mfactory internals
let me know what you all think of this. if my math is right b18c crank with custom rods should give me a perfect 1.75:1 r/s ratio.
thanks for any input on my build idea if everyone aproves this will be going togeather shortly
I've got a few questions about darts block. I've been considering it for my next build, but I've been reading reviews on it and have seen some isues with cooling. if anyone has used this block before please let me know. I was also wondering how much boost that it can hold up safely. do you have to run as a ls/vtec. so far my idea goes as folows.
dart b20+ block bored to 85mm
eagle b18c lightened crankshaft
custom crower titanium rods (152.4mm)
je 9:1 comp. pistons top and side coated
b16 portflow head
supertech valve springs
supertech titanium retainers
ferra valves (1mm oversized)
AIR carbon fiber intake manifold
75mm throttle body
1600cc injectors
ctr/itr oil and water pump
full race topmount t4 devided manifold
4" downpipe to full 4" straight pipe
gt42r twin scroll ball bearing turbo
twin tial 44mm v-band wastegates
tial 50mm blowoff valve
hondata s300 w/boost option
itr transmission with mfactory internals
let me know what you all think of this. if my math is right b18c crank with custom rods should give me a perfect 1.75:1 r/s ratio.
thanks for any input on my build idea if everyone aproves this will be going togeather shortly
02-15-2009, 03:44 PM
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Dart b20+ block
I run mine for road racing, never had any cooling issues with it.
I got caught in a flood one day, hydro-locked it, bent a rod like a banana, and put it through the side of the sleeve. I called Dart about it, then sent it to them. $76 for a new sleeve and $150 for labor and the block was back in 4 days.
I had two issues with it, they don't clean it much after they machine it, my builder spent hours cleaning little coils of metal out of every passage in the block from where they machined it, and not all of the bolt holes are the same depth as a Honda block. My tensioner bolt from my B16 was too long for the hole in the Dart block, so I had to use a slightly shorter bolt. It wasn't a big deal, after I realized it I just used a small skewer to check the depth of the holes against any bolts that I put in it.
I'll be sending it back for new 84mm sleeves in a bit, I've blown it up a few times (nothing to do with the block, injector failure, etc) and it's out to ovevr 85.5 now. Figure $300 for sleeves and a few more to press them in (Dart blocks have dry sleeves, not like sleeving a Honda block) and I'll basically have a new block.
They also leave them a bit too tall; you will have to get it decked if you want it to be 226mm. That and the obvious geometry issues of a B-series block that's different from anything else out there (although Eagle makes a good selection of different-sized rods that you can use and custom pistons are fairly simple to get) are the only real issues that I've had with it.
I got caught in a flood one day, hydro-locked it, bent a rod like a banana, and put it through the side of the sleeve. I called Dart about it, then sent it to them. $76 for a new sleeve and $150 for labor and the block was back in 4 days.
I had two issues with it, they don't clean it much after they machine it, my builder spent hours cleaning little coils of metal out of every passage in the block from where they machined it, and not all of the bolt holes are the same depth as a Honda block. My tensioner bolt from my B16 was too long for the hole in the Dart block, so I had to use a slightly shorter bolt. It wasn't a big deal, after I realized it I just used a small skewer to check the depth of the holes against any bolts that I put in it.
I'll be sending it back for new 84mm sleeves in a bit, I've blown it up a few times (nothing to do with the block, injector failure, etc) and it's out to ovevr 85.5 now. Figure $300 for sleeves and a few more to press them in (Dart blocks have dry sleeves, not like sleeving a Honda block) and I'll basically have a new block.
They also leave them a bit too tall; you will have to get it decked if you want it to be 226mm. That and the obvious geometry issues of a B-series block that's different from anything else out there (although Eagle makes a good selection of different-sized rods that you can use and custom pistons are fairly simple to get) are the only real issues that I've had with it.
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02-24-2009, 04:13 PM
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Re: Dart b20+ block
much cheaper to have a OEM block sleeved.. Save you at least 1,000 dollars and it will handle just about anything you can throw at it.
09-22-2009, 02:00 PM
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Re: Dart b20+ block
I have heard really great things about the Dart Blocks... are they really necessary? Probably not considering that you could have a factory block sleeved for a little cheaper... but if you have a little extra money than I would go ahead and get the Dart Block. I know they are stronger than a factory block and it is MADE to hold boost! I just bought a retired ef drag car with a Dart block and it was running 10.7's with 24 lbs of boost on race gas!
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