Alright guys, I really want to turbo my 93 Civic EX Sedan. I'm running a stock D16Z6. I bet this is pretty common, but I searched for about 2 hours with no results before making this topic. I want to go with the cheap option of using a turbo out of a DSM, but I dont want to use the CX manifold because i'd have to remove the AC. I live in central florida, AC removal is simply not an option, it's way to hot, it rains a lot and when it does, it's really humid. If you dont run your AC, it's fog city. Is there another manifold I could use and keep my AC? A custom made log manifold maybe? or would I be able to get away with the CX manifold and a FAL fan on the AC condenser? Also, I noticed most people mount the turbo with the cold side twards the driver side, will it fit the other way? I want to run charge piping.

On to the fuel system. I know FMU's are trash, so I'm not even going to bother with one. I'm thinking about a P28 with Uberdata or Turboedit, walbro 255, and B&M comandflo. Will I need bigger injectors? or will this work on about 6-8psi?

 

you can get a log mani from SFP. or a ebay tubular one, but they are known for cracking. dsm 450's a re a good idea.. a p28 with uberdata is a great idea, thats waht i was running on my turbo z6.. you dont really need a fule pump but if you have the money to do it then go for it. as far as the turbo houseing you have to have it that way for it to clear the ac compressor.. if you have any more questions you can pm me..

 

Forget the walbro pump, not needed
use the greddy manifold to keep ac for your goals
the B&M command flow is ***, remove it from your list
use Crome
its real good you "Want to run charge pipes" considering without them you have no boost

 

i have a greddy manifold if you want it... and turbo and 2.5" downpipe lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a greddy manifold if you want it... and turbo and 2.5" downpipe lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
for free? lol, how much man?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Forget the walbro pump, not needed
use the greddy manifold to keep ac for your goals
the B&M command flow is ***, remove it from your list
use Crome
its real good you "Want to run charge pipes" considering without them you have no boost
</TD></TR></TABLE>haha, I meant charge pipes from the turbo inlet to a filter mounted somewhere where it can get a cooler air charge, i'm not that dumb


thanks guys.


Modified by Jipsychris at 10:37 PM 1/31/2006

 

pm'ed

 

make sure you get that turbo rebuild if it hasn't all ready been. because those DSM guys really beat the heck out of them.

If you haven't got one yet let me know and i can give you a good deal on one, Rebuilt with Garret internals and with a 6 month warranty on remanufacturing defects.

 

if you searched for 2 hours and didn't find anything on turbo d16z6's you shouldn't turbo it! karma is telling you something. (p.s. look at the tech projects on hmt for more infor) hmt = homemadeturbo.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MI KENT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you searched for 2 hours and didn't find anything on turbo d16z6's you shouldn't turbo it! karma is telling you something. (p.s. look at the tech projects on hmt for more infor) hmt = homemadeturbo.com</TD></TR></TABLE>
I found plenty on turbo d16z6's, I didnt find the answers to my questions. I've already been to HMT numerous times, it's been on my favorites for a while now, lol. Thanks though!

 

Basicly your question would be the ac issue. There's no way to make the cx/hf manifold work - unless you make an adapter that's different from the normal adapter. I have the materials to make two of such adapters.

You basicly need to run a 45 degree 2.5" pipe elbow from the HF flange to the T3 flange. The normal adapter puts the coldside on the driver's side, which is where the ac compressor is. The adapter I'm speaking of puts it on the other side next to the block stamp, slightly at an angle, and runs a tight 180 degree bend for the downpipe. I'm thinking about making an oval 3" downpipe - basicly do whatever I can to put the biggest downpipe in there. Stainless return hose is needed since it would be exposed to more heat.

The other questions you've probably seen in your searching, as well as in this thread.