ttt

 

I live 10 minutes from cometic, lol. Nice numbers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Teglove2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I live 10 minutes from cometic, lol. Nice numbers. </TD></TR></TABLE>

oh yah... well go knock on their door and tell them to hurry up with my 77mm hg that i ordered thru race engineering... been a month now!

 

Damn vro hate to hear things like this, let us know the turn out.

 

The car was running a bit sporadic before we could put it on the dyno. We did a quick street tune before we headed down to the dyno that I could do a rough tune on the low cam map and idle, so that he was able to drive the car, and not trailor it. After experiencing a huge headache with my wideband, we finally decided the 2nd time the car was strapped down to the dyno to tune off of the dyno's wideband meter. I enrichened the boost columns quite a bit, and pulled about 4 degrees timing from an already conservative timing map. I did this due to the bore size of the engine, and not knowing what kind of mechanical condition the engine was in. The first pull that the coolant spewed from the engine there was no signs of detonation on the dyno graph (usually pointy peaks, or a large peak on both horsepower and torque curves). The car was started at a coolant temperature of ~192 degrees, I start all the runs between 190-195 degrees coolant temperature to ensure repeatable dyno runs. The car was not overheating when the pull was made. When the car entered my shop before the dyno appointment oil was leaking from the back of the block, but I could not determine the location due to other old oil spots within the engine bay. It appeared from the breather box o ring seal, but again I could not tell since there was oil from a previous incident. The fact that you boosted on the previous map that Payn tech tuned at 10psi with a greddy kit, but ran 5psi on the t3/t4oe could have substantially damaged the engine before hand. On my end things were very conservative to make the first dyno run. The dyno graph read air/fuel values between 10.5~11:0, so there was sufficient fuel. I am not quite sure what happened, but to me it was a mechanical issue.

 

yea it's for sure a mechanical issue. the tune did not even get started. so im no blaming you at all.

im trying to figure out the high coolant pressure. im 90% sure it squirted out of the overflow tank.

accourding to the people watching there was no smoke out the exhaust only from the bay.

could a bad radiator cap do this.

as for boosting on a different map. i only did this a couple times to insure everything was working on the engine. and if i had damaged the engine before hand wouldnt that have shown in the compression and leakdown test. which come up fine before and after the issue.

platinum.

 

i put the radiator back in and filled it up.

changed nothing on the car. started it up to see where it was leaking . no leaks,

car runs fine.

im lost

platinum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinum00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i put the radiator back in and filled it up.

changed nothing on the car. started it up to see where it was leaking . no leaks,

car runs fine.

im lost

platinum.</TD></TR></TABLE>


your lost??? now your found , it came out of the overflow tank cause you lifted the head under boost . or it came out between the block and head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinum00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i put the radiator back in and filled it up.

changed nothing on the car. started it up to see where it was leaking . no leaks,

car runs fine.

im lost

platinum.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Does it overheat if you let it idle for a long time? You might need to take it for a 10-20 min drive first.

 

so did you ever find out your problem

 

i would say it's the same problem as this.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=850294

my head lifting.

i broke my hand so i cant replace my head gasket yet. i think im cutting the cast off tomarrow though.

i need my car fixed. screw my hand.

platinum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinum00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would say it's the same problem as this.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=850294

my head lifting.

i broke my hand so i cant replace my head gasket yet. i think im cutting the cast off tomarrow though.

i need my car fixed. screw my hand.

platinum.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

if i wasnt soo freaking busy i would come and give u a hand

 

ok, i cut my cast off last night. yes i know, im a idot.

hopefully i can get the headgasket by this weekend and see what happens. i guess i wont know if it fixes it till im back on the dyno though.

that way i can turn the boost back up.

platinum.

 

I had my engine bay sprayed with coolant one day last summer. I never found out what it was either. I didn't even really get on my car. It seems to be fine now, but i would get a huge flucuation in my coolant level in my resovoir tank. Sometimes it would almost be empty and other times it would be filled to the top. I'm thinking my problem is more with the radiator cap, but after reading ur setup with the stock headgasket and arp headstuds I'm wondering if my head lifting up also. What did u torque ur headstud up to. Mine is at 62ft/lbs Once i get my hondata in and my ecu chipping I think i'm going to make the trip up to Pa to get my car tuned by boosted hybrid too

 

yeah mine did the same thing, only when my head lifted it pulled the threads of one of my heads studs out of the block! This f'ing sucked. Block has been at RS for a month now. Hope this didn't happen to you.