crome/efi questions
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From: aaaahhhreeeezoooonaaaaaah, USA
im going to be running a converted p06 with crome, ostrich, and a m300 wideband. i just had some questions about the wiring/connectors. am i correct to assume ill be connecting both the ostritch to usb to tune with crome as well as the datalogging cable serial into my pc as well as an either usb or serial for a burner as well?do any of you run serial to usb converters and what kind? also what kind of burners do you guys run? i have a C1 Atmel AT29C256 Chip so i was wondering if any of you have preferences of the moates http://www.moates.net/product_...id=48 vs the willem http://www.xenocron.com/products.php?page=burner.
thanks, info would be much appreciated.
thanks, info would be much appreciated.
what kind of data logging cable do you have? you mention 'serial', if this is the case, you'll be plugging that in to the db9 serial connection, and the ostrich to a usb port. you don't have to have the burner hooked up at the same time. if you're using ostrich, you'll leave that hooked up to the ecu->lap top and use it for rtp to tune with, once you have your tune where you want/need it, then you just hook the burner up to burn the final .bin. as far as which burner, i've used the willem burner's forever, they're a bit cheaper and if you're only using it for a final burn anyway's, it's not like you need some 'super convenient one wire usb' burner. i can live with saving 50 bucks just for having to hook up an extra cable.
Yup, you aren't going to be using your Ostrich AND burner at the same time.
I have my BURN1 rubber banded to the top of my Ostrich. When I am done tuning with Ostrich, I just turn off the car and unplug the USB cable from the Ostrich and swap it to my BURN1 (I dont unplug it from behind the laptop). Then I can save the .bin on my harddrive, OR what I like to do is unplug the Ostrich ribbon cable from the ECU, plug it into the BURN1 and and with flash-and-burn I read the Ostrich with my BURN1 and save it to the hardrive through flash-and-burn (as a backup). Then take out the Ostrich chip/ribbon cable, stick an AT29C256 chip in the BURN1 and program the chip with that file I stil have saved in the buffer. That second method came in handy when I had a version of Uberdata that would corrupt .bins if you saved it from within UD.
Modified by BlueShadow at 6:05 AM 6/16/2005
I have my BURN1 rubber banded to the top of my Ostrich. When I am done tuning with Ostrich, I just turn off the car and unplug the USB cable from the Ostrich and swap it to my BURN1 (I dont unplug it from behind the laptop). Then I can save the .bin on my harddrive, OR what I like to do is unplug the Ostrich ribbon cable from the ECU, plug it into the BURN1 and and with flash-and-burn I read the Ostrich with my BURN1 and save it to the hardrive through flash-and-burn (as a backup). Then take out the Ostrich chip/ribbon cable, stick an AT29C256 chip in the BURN1 and program the chip with that file I stil have saved in the buffer. That second method came in handy when I had a version of Uberdata that would corrupt .bins if you saved it from within UD.
Modified by BlueShadow at 6:05 AM 6/16/2005
i agree with what these two guys have said, and also want to note that i am very pleased with my ostrich, burn1, and with cromepro also. very good software. got tired of ud acting up all the time. well worth the cash imo.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95cxh22a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree with what these two guys have said, and also want to note that i am very pleased with my ostrich, burn1, and with cromepro also. very good software. got tired of ud acting up all the time. well worth the cash imo.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That my exact same setup now, I even had the same reason as you for dropping UD and getting CromePRO. I still like to save my Ostrich tuned program like I did with when I tuned it with UD. It's probably unnecessary, but I think of it as a way to verify the Ostrich tuned .bin before I transfer it to a chip.
That my exact same setup now, I even had the same reason as you for dropping UD and getting CromePRO. I still like to save my Ostrich tuned program like I did with when I tuned it with UD. It's probably unnecessary, but I think of it as a way to verify the Ostrich tuned .bin before I transfer it to a chip.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That my exact same setup now, I even had the same reason as you for dropping UD and getting CromePRO. I still like to save my Ostrich tuned program like I did with when I tuned it with UD. It's probably unnecessary, but I think of it as a way to verify the Ostrich tuned .bin before I transfer it to a chip.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well, im my opinion crome works so much better, i mean honestly when you figure it all out, it works great.
ive seen you on pgmfi, i think. im there too, im just more of a lurker. only speak when i absolutely cant figure something out.
also i would like to note that craig moates is super quick to reply if you have a problem. and super quick on the shipping.
i would like to tell everybody if youve had your ostrich for a while, you prolly should update your firmware. i was having problems with it, then updated to 10.10 or whatever the newest was, and it worked great.
john was also very quick to get my registration string.
well, im my opinion crome works so much better, i mean honestly when you figure it all out, it works great.
ive seen you on pgmfi, i think. im there too, im just more of a lurker. only speak when i absolutely cant figure something out.
also i would like to note that craig moates is super quick to reply if you have a problem. and super quick on the shipping.
i would like to tell everybody if youve had your ostrich for a while, you prolly should update your firmware. i was having problems with it, then updated to 10.10 or whatever the newest was, and it worked great.
john was also very quick to get my registration string.
Yah, even thought UD was free and all, so I wasn't entitled to any help I was frustrated sometimes about how slow support was for UD. John is quick to answer questions both through e-mails and even the forums.
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From: aaaahhhreeeezoooonaaaaaah, USA
yeah defnitly cromepro
john answered all my questions quickly. thanks for all the replys, was just wondering if i would be having all these connections at once(not plugged in). pgmfi is great forum. as far as the burner, i was not really into reading every little detail bout a chip burner(got lazy after reading 20 pages on pgmfi) so i was just asking for some quick opinions on stuff that would work
thanks
john answered all my questions quickly. thanks for all the replys, was just wondering if i would be having all these connections at once(not plugged in). pgmfi is great forum. as far as the burner, i was not really into reading every little detail bout a chip burner(got lazy after reading 20 pages on pgmfi) so i was just asking for some quick opinions on stuff that would work
thanks
RTFW 
http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...urner
Concise reviews / info about some of the more common burners on the market.

http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...urner
Concise reviews / info about some of the more common burners on the market.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: aaaahhhreeeezoooonaaaaaah, USA
yah now if only toshiba wasnt such a pos with getting my laptop back. im gonna have to use my bros dell which is coming in the mail. i think im gonna go with the cheap one cus it seems to do everything i need it to do. thanks for all the input
Thread Starter
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From: aaaahhhreeeezoooonaaaaaah, USA
when im wiring up my plxm300 wideband, do i follow the hondata install? i was thinking of tapping the power and ground right off the ecu along with the wideband signal onto the narrowband wire.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by milb16a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when im wiring up my plxm300 wideband, do i follow the hondata install? i was thinking of tapping the power and ground right off the ecu along with the wideband signal onto the narrowband wire.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe that's how you have to do it. For th WB/simulated NB you tap it in to D14 which is the stock primary O2 sensor. Then you can use the ECU ground which is A26. If you need to tap power, you can also do it from the ECU.
I believe that's how you have to do it. For th WB/simulated NB you tap it in to D14 which is the stock primary O2 sensor. Then you can use the ECU ground which is A26. If you need to tap power, you can also do it from the ECU.
i love my willem over the BURN1
the willem can program over 100 chips and stuff
the atmel chips are no longer in production and whatever is out there is whats left over
the willem can burn other chips as an example the replacement for the atmels. the SST27SF256 wich i am sure u can get on ebay and other places
the willem can program over 100 chips and stuff
the atmel chips are no longer in production and whatever is out there is whats left over
the willem can burn other chips as an example the replacement for the atmels. the SST27SF256 wich i am sure u can get on ebay and other places
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18prl »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">crome pro alot better than crome 1.0?</TD></TR></TABLE>
1.0 is a version of Crome, I am using 1.1.6B right now and but I also have 1.0b. I have two CromePRO programs installed on my laptop, 1.1.6B and 1.0B 1.1.6B is just an updated version of Crome. If you have 1.0 then you should upgrade it to v1.1.6. CromePRO is an upgraded version of CromeFREE which has a few extra options that CromeFREE doesn't have.
Crome goes by levels and versions...CromeFREE, CromePRO, and CromeDEALER. I think that right now the most current version out is 1.1.6B. So say you start out using CromeFREE version 1.0. But you want to use the extra features that CromePRO has. You pay $149 to John Cui and he gives the information you need to upgrade your CromeFREE to CromePRO. Once your upgrade is complete you'll have CromePRO version 1.0. If you want to upgrade from 1.0 to 1.1.6B you just have to patch whatever level Crome you have.
http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtop...dfc80
1.0 is a version of Crome, I am using 1.1.6B right now and but I also have 1.0b. I have two CromePRO programs installed on my laptop, 1.1.6B and 1.0B 1.1.6B is just an updated version of Crome. If you have 1.0 then you should upgrade it to v1.1.6. CromePRO is an upgraded version of CromeFREE which has a few extra options that CromeFREE doesn't have.
Crome goes by levels and versions...CromeFREE, CromePRO, and CromeDEALER. I think that right now the most current version out is 1.1.6B. So say you start out using CromeFREE version 1.0. But you want to use the extra features that CromePRO has. You pay $149 to John Cui and he gives the information you need to upgrade your CromeFREE to CromePRO. Once your upgrade is complete you'll have CromePRO version 1.0. If you want to upgrade from 1.0 to 1.1.6B you just have to patch whatever level Crome you have.
http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtop...dfc80
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