jetspeedz

for sure its air flow. One thing you can do which costs a bit but to me was worth it is to ceramic coat the hot side. I have everything from manifold, downpipe, dump pipe, and full exhaust coated which helps quite a bit by keeping temps under the hood down. On a side note, also if you want the extra protection you can have your pistons coated which gives even more protection against detonation.

good luck and keep us posted

edstone83

Yea, I should have done that from the get go but I didn't.
I am going to try and having a scoop of some sort mounted to the hop bar to pick up air underneath the IC to bring air up in fornt of the radiator. We shall see.

dantamparacer

I have the mishimoto half sized radiator, and fan/shroud combo. I have no problem with daily driving conditions or constant speed on the highway. BUT when i run it like a raped ape i have issues with my cap leaking from under it. I know that it is not the pressure relief valve for sure. I am on my third cap and mishimoto IS VERY GOOD about trying to straighten out the problem so far. It seems to me that the caps are just poorly engineered it only has two thin sheet metal fingers that hold it to the radiator and they keep bending under race situations

edstone83

you are using the mishimoto radiator cap? You keep rplc'ing it w/ the same mishimoto radiator cap and it keeps failing?

Use a different brand of cap.

jetspeedz

its never too late to get it ceramic coated. Sure it costs money but it may be worth it, however the real way to fix the problem at hand is better air flow to the radiator

attack666

does a cooling plate do anything?

something like this? its a cheap mod, but is it effective
http://cgi.ebay.com/Civic-vti-EK9-96...item29fe241184

jetspeedz

waste of money, air is not directed in any way to the front of the radiator.

laosonick

iTrader: (5)

im running a koyo with a spal fan, it never went over 200 on the dyno.

ahobbs

Detonation occurs becuase of a bad tune or change in fuels or conditions. You don't need to ceramic coat your pistons. Your problem is lack of airflow to the radiator. I cut a functional hole in my hood and it helps but on a hot day it's gonna get to 205ish. The only way I can change it is by allowng more airflow to the radiator. With the 750hp dense precision ic it's not gonna happen. So I drive it in the evening

edstone83

I drove around town today and the temp stayed below 200 for the most part. I hit a 4-6 mile stretch of raod and maitained a 45 mph speed and it slowly crept up to 206. I will put some sort of duct on it today and hopefully it solves my problem. I thought about cutting holes in the hood too, where it covers up the radiator. I was thinking that a scoop on the bottom of the radiator that comes out just below the IC would help out too.

jetspeedz

If you read what I wrote i stated it helps by giving extra protection, it is certainly not the answer to a bad tune. Ceramic coating pistons is done on race cars all the time and it has been proven. Embee does the coating for anyone interested.

http://www.embeeperformance.com

ahobbs

i understand what your saying, coating pistons and a cooling/radiator thread dont have much in common. I doubt that the guy is going to take his motor apart just to coat pistons when he's having cooling issues.

jetspeedz

I agree, i never suggested he take his motor apart, i was simply taking about ceramic coating and i just stated in a "PS" that coating pistons can be beneficial too.

Back to topic cutting holes in your bumper also hurts your aerodynamics so don't butcher it either and pick the right spots.

spawn_616

iv gt a bit of a problem,i have no idea wher to put my oil cooler for my gearbox(automatic),im def keeping my ac,but thats gt a pusher on it so thers no space infront of the ac,and dont want to put it in front of the rad,iv gt the small mishi i/c,and 1/2mishi rad,so any ideas

edstone83

Well I cut a piece out of the bumper out above the IC and I don't think that it is helping a lot. How ever it is 100 w/ tons of humidity. I will be able to see a difference better in the morning once the outside temps cool off. I got in my car after work and pluged in laptop and the ECT was already 111. Damn Heat.

91jdmhatchback

Air flow is key to cooling nothing more nothing less. as posted earlier (the very nice shroud) he proves that air flow over/across a radiator will cool VERY well.

Now what surprises me the most with Honda's is that people will take months to set up which turbo there going to run, what pistons, compression, etc.... but can't be bothered to give cooling priority. if people would still to keeping full radiators and make a turbo/manifold fit around a decent sized radiator or in the case of civics, simply make a shroud like the factory non-a/c cars had. then there wouldn't be the need for this thread.

But just based on edstone83's car (no offence but it's true) he told cooling to get bent in the name of a huge fmic and "easy" wastegate placement. Now he has resorted to cutting his bumper apart to help with cooling. See the backwards thinking there?

If he would have bought a manifold with better wastegate placement and some consideration for the turbo to radiator snugness he would be able to run a full rad or even a nice half core like he has and a good shroud, and no issues would arise.

edstone83

And it hit me as I laughed. I don't have a heater core anymore. I took the valve out and ran the coolant line back to the head but that bypasses the thermostat and the readiator. So I have a constant flow going right back into the head. I am going to let here cool down and I will seal that path way off and I bet she runs cool. . . . idiot

jetspeedz

To be fair to the OP, you have to consider the options out there, there are not too many of them that allow you to keep the AC and fit the turbo with room to spare. Most manifolds now a days from companies like Peakboost and FullRace are designed to run a 1/2 size radiator.

Keep in mind as i stated above the shroud with a good fan is only good for keeping the car cool once the fan kicks in, with the fan turned off the shroud does Nothing and air flow is the only thing that matters. Now if you have a FMIC and a condenser how can you possibly make air flow more efficiently to the front of the radiator without cutting holes? That is the million dollar question!!!

ahobbs

i totally agree. Gotta deal with cooling first. then turbo. the only problem is hondas just dont have much space to cramp the things we cramp in it. SO we have to make due.
\
jet-that's the million dollar question but the answer is airflow unfortunately.

edstone83

I am telling ya'll, i didn't need to cut the bumper. I'll bet once I stop that path that goes from pre thermostat to the head bypassing the radiator it will drop significantly.

AND cooling was my number on concern. Why do you think I paid Tony Palo to make a shroud ?

edstone83

Well, that was wierd. Got down the street and ECT went up fast and hit 224 so I pulled over and killed it. 2.5 minutes from start up. However when I popped the hood the upper and lower radiator hoses were much cooler than normal. I could grab them which usually they are to hot to grab. Now the auto meter gauge stayed below 280 during this and they are usually with in two degrees of eachother. Keep in mind I have the auto meter temp sending unit in the stock location. Wierd. Any suggestions.

edstone83

Well i pinched the hose that would normaly go form the head to the heater valve, to the heater core, and then in to the thermostat housing. When I did that, the autometer, which it's sending unit is in the stock location because I don't use the one in the dash, stay around 180 and the ECT on my hondata hit 224 in 2.5 minutes. I pulled over immediatly and popped the hood. Everything was cooler than it usually is. I could brab the upper and lower radiator hoses. pinching that line is the same thing as having the climate control selector in the cool position. I dont get why it would make the ECT increas so high so fast but everything else was normal. Any ideas.

jetspeedz

You realize the ECT sensor for the dash and the hondata are in different locations right. You sure you don't have air trapped in there?

DRAGLS

Can this hose be removed/deleted?

Goes from the head to the thermostat housing.

edstone83

Yeah man, the ECT that the S300 uses is further forward and has a two wire connection where as the sender for the gauge is a simpler thermistor below the dizzy.

I took the stock one out and got a fitting to put the auto meter "shallow unit" into the head to get the most accurate reading.