ahobbs

Im curious to know truly how radiators like mishimoto's compare to radiators like Koyo?

in cooling factors considering you have a good fan shroud combo. Could you put a koyo in and would it actually cool better and more efficiently because of more dense fins kinda like a nice garrett core intercooler or would a mishimoto do the same. one is pricey and the other is cheap. I am a believer to an extent of you get what you pay for, just depends on what it is.

Is there actual data out there that proves why one is better than the other. Like i said considering you have a fan set up like myself(spal13 and shroud).

The reason im asking this is because my car is torn down currently and i looked at my radiator, i haven't had any cooling issues but it looks like it's time for antoher while im putting everything else new in it.

thanks

SilverEk3dr

Had a half-size all aluminum radiator (not sure what brand, but thick) in my car.. its a teg, ls/vtec, 35r, sidewinder mani. With one 12" fan the car would run 210 just cruizing on the hwy with the fan wired on. Thats with no thermostat. Would get close to 220 if it sat at idle for a long time an tried to overheat on me a few times in stop and go traffic. Also If I raced the car more than 2 times pulling through the gears I would have to shut it down and let it chill for a good 15-20 before I could get anymore action.

I just upgraded to a Yonaka (yea I know) full size for the teg & have 2 12" cheapy fans on it. The car will get close to 200 in stop and go traffic in the heat of the day (90+*). If your cruizing at hwy speed it will get about 180, and if you go 50-55 it will start to cool off under 180 back down to 150-160. Im getting all this off my autometer gauge which notoriously reads a bit higher than the factory ECT. Plus my exhaust is pretty close to the side of the head right there, and im sure its getting heat soaked pretty good.

Im bout to try cutting some holes in the hood to try an alleviate even more hot air and see if that helps further.

inspector01

I don't have any data cuz my car has been in storage since september, but i run a 1/2 size mishimoto, with a push mishimoto 10" fan in front of the radiator. I have never had a single issue with it, and the downpipe goes right behind it (reason the fan is in front of radiator) including on the dyno for 2-3 hours straight. I also drove it 800 miles with no fan at all in 80* weather (just gotten car together the day before, didn't realize the fuse was blown). Im very happy with it.

ahobbs

SilverEK if you had a good fan/shroud combo you could probably fix that.

bump for info

legomytego

if its not broke dont fix it lol i have a mishimoto half size rad with a spal 13inch fan now thanks to your other thread my car hasent had a single problem knock on wood. temps almost never tap 200 now. before i had the same rad with the 12 inch fan from the peakboost kit and the car would over heat in about 5mins of highway driving not getting in boost what so ever so i do think you get what you pay for .

ahobbs

thanks so what our saying is your less expensive radiator works with a good fan combo?

SilverEk3dr

Yeah I know. I just dont have the funds to get all fancy, and this works 10x better than the old setup. Like I said, before I could make like 2 pulls and then it would start to get hot. With the new setup the other night I must have done half a dozen pulls and the car would still start to get under 180 when I just cruized 50-55 for a minute or two.

SPOOLINmatt

mishimoto works great so does my ragged out fluidyne with bent fins. ECT never goes over about 191 192 at the end of a pass when its about 95 degrees out.

ef92b

excellent thread. finally someone stepped forward for this particular issue.

for the past 2 days, been reading lots of how-to's of trying to lower coolant temps to optimum specially when cruising. to the OP, i like your approach specially with t1's shrouded rad setup. found lots of your posts, archived. "i love the search button, LOL

very recently, had a quite annoying case with one of my customers' car facing such issues. car's a 90 crx with an egay t3/t4 kit in it, stock OBD-0 B16 converted to obd-1 wiring/rechipped p08/cr*me gold, no a/c blah blah blah...EG style 3-row egay rad with a slim 10" push fan(no idea what the CFM rate is) and the aux fan used as the rad fan in puller mode. very tight fit and a hacked job really. kid's a college student so funds are tight and just wanna have some boost.

it will idle all day with no temp issues while fan is activated via ecu at 184, hood's closed. but when cruising plus few burst on boost runs, temp rises quickly to 210 tops. , pull-over for a 5-10min rest then goes normal down to 178. no coolant leaks and reservoir never goes down even slightly from full level.

today i let him pull out that OE aux fan plus the front mounted 10" slim fan and installed a 96+ OE civic rad fan with a brand new 30-amp Bosch relay. took a straight 30 min cruise and never the temp rise again above normal, unlike before. stayed normal(as per the OE temp gauge at the dash) and he was delighted.

hopefully, i'll post some data when i get to drive the car later this weekend.

i believe that having a nice shrouded pull fan setup, better "frontal" air flow to rad, did fix his issue. FMIC's a 24x6x2.5" btw. bigger FMIC's beware, LOL

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

to the OP

I run a mishimoto, it works but i had to get alot of air flow to the rad to keep thinigs cool on the highway otherwise my fan would just run constantly and the temps would hold 220.

Now that i trimmed my bumper and have better air flow it holds 198 on the highway and in traffic gets to 205 then the fan kicks on. IMO get a fal fan that has a shroud, or run a 12" and build a shroud, or run a 14" fan like i do and it takes up 98% of the cooling surface aka acts liek a shroud. this pulls the ehat out of the rad pretty decent.

The only downfall to the mishimoto in comparison to an expensive rad like koyo or fluidyne is the same pricipals as the ebay intercoolers vs the precisions or any other good company. The cheaper units are almost see through vs a good brand are far more dense as far as the cooling fins go and work more effeciently.

Aluminum is NOT a good conductor of heat therfore it is imparative to have more dense amount of cooling fins to get the job done properly. YES the mishimoto works but if i had a better rad in my car it would most definatly run cooler.. stock rad in my car would keep temps at 188 on the highway and stock rads are copper tube/fin design which is an excellent condustor of heat.

My car has a packed engine bay too. i have a/c p/s a top mount manifold the 3" dp producing heat and a precision 600hp intercooler takes up the whole front of the bumper opening

ahobbs

good info up for more

EARLdaSQUIRREL

cxracing radiator with shroud and spal 13" fan and absolutely no problems on the highway, or anywhere for that matter

i believe its all in the fan/shroud moreso than the radiator

legomytego

yes sir i think less efficient rad is made up for with a good fan. does anybody have data saying there koyo cooled x amount of degrees better then stock .

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Yes a good fan with shroud will help but that means the fan always has to be running in order to keep things cool. I personally like to have it setup the proper way which the air flowing through the rad keeps things cool and whenin traffic the fan keeps things cool. thats my my .02 though some peopel dont mind the fan always running

ahobbs

i understand that argument.

I would honeslty like to see live data. Im all about live data but i can't afford to buy radiators for the hell of it. Just so people would notice if there was a true difference. Is it the fan/shroud with a name brand radiator or a fan/shorud with an off brand radiator.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

honestly its a good rad with even a stock fan or a 12" with a shroud and plenty of air flow to the rad. Its better to keep the car runnign cool with natural air flow then keep it cool with the fan cause my buddy has a good rad with a FAL fan which is shrouded and his car still runs hot and thats due to poor air flow

ahobbs

right. that makes sense to me.

so then what makes a good radiator?

more dense fins?

96 GSR-T

I know the mishimoto is a copy of Fluidyne Radiators, Mishi is located 15 minutes from my house, and I know some people that dealt with him when he was buying up Rad's and sending them to China..... the only difference should be the material used and where they are assembled.

I used a Fluidyne 1/2 size and an H-Tech marketplace $55 puller fan no shroud and my ECT's are not acceptable, I was easily creeping up into the 215-223 range sitting in traffic and 205 and rising while crusing, using a 50/50 mix with a bottle of water wetter..... I even have a large cutout in my bumper to allow air over the Intercooler and to the radiator/engine bay and burning Ethanol.

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

I have a cx racing core and a autozone 12" fan on my car. It never goes above 200 even when in traffic. When cruising it sits right about 186-188 and normal city driving it goes to around 190-192 when the fan comes on.

This is in an 84.5mm AEBS sleeved block as well. Heat wrapping the downpipe also lowered the temps about 2-4 degrees overall as well, as the downpipe is pretty close to the rad.

omgwtfbbq

I have a cheap ebay 2 3/8 core aluminum radiator. Had no problems until recently, I sprung a small leak.


I guess I got what I paid for. Gonna get the leak fixed, and hope no more pop up.

slammed_93_hatch

RE: mishimoto radiators-

I run a mishimoto S2k radiator in my civic EG with a k20a3 swap.


I road race. It was pretty damn hot the last weekend I was out, the motor never hit more then 190ECT (data logger recorded) and only hit 196 while in the paddock once. Even when i was in the draft for 3 to 4 laps straight i never had to "pop out" as the ECT never got above 190.

I think they are all good, i have ran a Koyo, C&R, and now Mishimoto radiator.

Seriously the bigger the better.

A fan is a good thing for when the car is idling or not moving at more then 50mph. Also a fan isn't doing a damn thing if the car is going over 50mph, it is actually hurting air flow. This can be mitigated by having the fan being a puller fan, pusher fans are bad for cooling.

Shrouds are a good thing. Here is one for my car that i have yet to install.





These in back to back testing have shown to drop ECTs by as much as 40 degrees. To the point that now if it isn't a 90 degree plus day you are going to have to tape off the opening.

JDMCRX

iTrader: (2)

where does this shroud go ?

ahobbs

i can't visually see how your shroud is being used

slammed_93_hatch

the flat large area gets taped and mounted to the radiator.

The smaller opening that sticks out gets taped/sealed up to the opening of the bumper.

Thus giving the air no place to go but through the radiator.

A problem with air is it take the path of least resistance, so ya if you are running a half length radiator with out a block off plate on the other side it is no wonder you struggle keeping temps down.

If you look at race cars like the DBR9, or some of the LM nsxs. you will see they use a very similar design, although there is incorporated into the body work and usually carbon fiber.

purpleh22

I have a hatch with a built h22, GT35, etc. Initially had a fluidyne 1/2 with an unshrouded fan. When it was air temp was over 80 deg. the engine would overheat. Switched to a shrouded FAL type fan and problem disappeared for good.