<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Since when does "all throughout the powerband" mean above 3800 RPM. That car, like all properly supercharged cars, was pulling hard from idle on. Around 3800 RPM the turbo finally caught up and passed it, but that's to be expected from the respective compressor maps of the two setups, regardless of if they are super- or turbo- charged. If everyone on HT would learn to use a compressor map then we wouldn't have these ridiculous threads. My SC'd car pulls hard, instantly, from anywhere. My "power band" starts around 1000 RPM and goes to 8000, although I don't hit VTEC until 2000 RPM, but you can do that with a blower.


Hint to the OP, the turbo usually wins a drag race. When I drag-raced with a turbo my RPM's never got below 5000, that's what I launched at. On the bright side, SC's do love a small pre-blower shot of nitrous for drag racing </TD></TR></TABLE>


yea your right i put my foot in my mouth with "all throughout the powerband", what I should have said is that the turbo killed the s/c from 3800 to 5k and beyond which is right where u would be while doing mild spirited driving, and how often are u below 3800rpms in any other gear besides first where the power is kinda useless anyway

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Since when does "all throughout the powerband" mean above 3800 RPM. That car, like all properly supercharged cars, was pulling hard from idle on. Around 3800 RPM the turbo finally caught up and passed it, but that's to be expected from the respective compressor maps of the two setups, regardless of if they are super- or turbo- charged. If everyone on HT would learn to use a compressor map then we wouldn't have these ridiculous threads. My SC'd car pulls hard, instantly, from anywhere. My "power band" starts around 1000 RPM and goes to 8000, although I don't hit VTEC until 2000 RPM, but you can do that with a blower.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Uh, just about every Honda only has a usable powerband 5000rpms and up after shifting. If you go under 5000 you're not in the right gear.

 

Uh, that's because they don't have superchargers on them. I have a usable powerband that starts off idle and goes to 8000. When your have the power down low, you find that you use it all the time. Where I would downshift my GT3071R to pass I just roll on the throttle with a SC. There are other places too, not having to downshift for turn 8 at CMP makes it much faster.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">STI's are easy, get some sticky tires so they don't leave you at the start and they fall on their faces in the back 1/8.

Vid of a JRSC B18 running mid-low 12's at over 3000 ft (that should be good enough to beat STI's):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOxNpakHsRk

Check the JRSC thread for used blower kits, a lot of them get posted there, it's where I sold mine. You can get something decent for 1/2 the cost of a new one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Clarification. My motor is 2.0l gsr.

FYI Stock STI's run high 13's here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Uh, that's because they don't have superchargers on them. I have a usable powerband that starts off idle and goes to 8000. When your have the power down low, you find that you use it all the time. Where I would downshift my GT3071R to pass I just roll on the throttle with a SC. There are other places too, not having to downshift for turn 8 at CMP makes it much faster.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, the low end grunt of a roots setup is very nice on the street. I'm often cruising 40mph in 4th just because of the torque. It drives much more like a muscle car; power on demand.

A good example of the torque I'm talking about is my clutch was slipping near the beginning of the year. I couldn't launch the car at all or it would just slip. With no burn out and just punching it off idle (no dump/launch) I ran 12.89. Can't do that with a turbo. I've obviously replaced the clutch now, but it is a good demonstration of the versatility of such a setup.

Given the choice between a 300whp blower car and a 300whp turbo I'd take the blown car every time. Given the choice between a 300whp car and a 450whp turbo I'd need to think about it. ie: what do I want out of the car.

gotrice16 good luck with your setup.

 

thanks...
when you say high 13s, you mean like 13.8 or 13.7?
i think that a blower setup will eat a Subie with the proper tune...
i've been told by jim to buy the high boost kit, the street kit uses the FMU, which he colorfully calls the "covered wagon"...sure, the covered wagon can move and is a valid form of transportation, but the car is capable of way more...

oh, the high boost kit comes with 6, 8, and 12psi pulleys, a belt, the standard kit with polished finish, and a hondata s300 with 450cc injectors...
jim has this setup and ran a pretty consistant 12.6 in a gutted EG hatch with a GSR swap and a good tune...
oh, and he also has no aftercooler setup or blower porting...just a sick valvetrain and hard clutch with some street slicks...

 

gotrice16 i think you need to ask yourself, how many stock STI's are really driving around ?

im sure the owners of most STI's mod their cars.

 

you'd think, but see...

since their base is AWD, they lose a higher percentage of horsepower from crank to wheels due to friction loss from the complexity of the AWD diff...

plus, this chick only has an exhaust...no boost upgrade, nothing....

 

she's seen too many videos of boxsters and gallardos getting beat by STIs...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gotrice16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks...
when you say high 13s, you mean like 13.8 or 13.7?
i think that a blower setup will eat a Subie with the proper tune...
i've been told by jim to buy the high boost kit, the street kit uses the FMU, which he colorfully calls the "covered wagon"...sure, the covered wagon can move and is a valid form of transportation, but the car is capable of way more...

oh, the high boost kit comes with 6, 8, and 12psi pulleys, a belt, the standard kit with polished finish, and a hondata s300 with 450cc injectors...
jim has this setup and ran a pretty consistant 12.6 in a gutted EG hatch with a GSR swap and a good tune...
oh, and he also has no aftercooler setup or blower porting...just a sick valvetrain and hard clutch with some street slicks...</TD></TR></TABLE>

It varies but the range would be low 14's to high 13's. As someone else mentioned though getting a STI into the low 13's or high 12's is pretty easy.

The other thing to note is that from a dead stop a 12 second honda on street tires is hard pressed to keep up with a stock STI.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gotrice16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you'd think, but see...

since their base is AWD, they lose a higher percentage of horsepower from crank to wheels due to friction loss from the complexity of the AWD diff...

plus, this chick only has an exhaust...no boost upgrade, nothing....</TD></TR></TABLE>

you are correct but take into consideration.

a fwd loses about 15-18% drivetrain loss.
a awd loses about 20-25% drivetrain loss. which is why they are usually built stock with more hp.

 

here's a novel concept...
that prelude engine i posted about in an earlier post, the one i have sitting around with minimal mileage...

if that motor was in my EG hatch, would a JRSC fit? that H22 is quite the pig...
i've got hasport mounts for it lined up...

 

measure twice and cut once.

the H22 is not as big of pig as people make you believe.

 

so it requires firewall cutting? how would i go about that?