Jo Del sol

BURNING A LITTLE OIL ON MY NEW BUILD, SO I DID A COMPRESSION TEST TODAY (WITH W.O.T., ENGINE WARM, AND ALL PLUGS REMOVED AND DIST. UNPLUGGED.) ON MY D16Y8, SOHC, VTEC ENGINE. ALL READ 120 PSI ACROSS THE BOARD. THE MOTOR IS NEWLY REBUILT WITH 1,800 MILES ON IT. IT IS A FULLY BUILT TURBO MOTOR WITH LOWER COMPRESSION 9:0:1 SRP TURBO PISTONS. STOCK COMPRESSION RATIO IS 9:6:1. COMPRESSION TEST AT THE LOWEST SHOULD BE 135 PSI FROM WHAT I CAN GATHER ON A STOCK MOTOR. ANY REASON TO BE CONCERNED? ANY IDEAS? THANKS!

boostedcivicsir

caps off. please.

how did you install the rings?
was it ran on a base map? how were the afr's?

Jo Del sol

They are JE performer rings and they where installed to the turbo specs listed in the manual that came with them. The markings/letters on the rings where installed facing up. From what I gather that was the correct thing to do. It was honed using a 3 stone. It has a p28 ecu from Phearable.net with a base tune from them. I had it towed to my tuner and he installed a GM 3 bar map sensor and based tuned it on the dyno with wideband. Not sure what the A.F ratios where to tell you the truth. He told me to break it in with regular oil and to NOT go into boost, which I haven't. I changed the oil at 100 , 500 and 1,000 mile intervals and here we are... The head was built by them also. CROWER stage 2 turbo cam, spring and retainer kit. They said the valve guides looked alright so they were no replaced. No smoke at idle. None really at a constant 3k also. Just on rev up and down. Not 7.5k revs either! Just up to 4.5k. I just switched to synthetic yesterday with 1,800 miles on it. It still smoked a little with regular oil also so its not that. I have too much time and money invested, so I am doing everything by the book...

boostedcivicsir

definately got all points covered.

is it using oil? if so how much and what rate?

Jo Del sol

Its actually a mini-me. Y7 bottom end with a y8 head. I'm always checking the fluids and topping them off. (coolant is always fine...) They reused my vtec solenoid gasket when the built the head, and its leaking down the down the front of the block. Had to order one through Honda and ill be installing it this weekend. I just did a 230 mile trip over the labor day weekend and topped it off with about a 1/4 qt afterward. I just drove about 75 miles since yesterdays oil change and I checked it when I got home and it was still at the full mark. So I don't know?... It seems to be off and on and mostly when I start going from a stop light, or getting off the highway back to stop and go. (I waited the 1,000 miles) before constant rpm driving. I took all back roads to work, etc... I was told to switch to synthetic around 2,000 miles from my tuner so I did. I am just concerned about the 120 psi in all 4 and the smoking. I am just lost. Some say the rings still haven't seated. Others say a little oil can cause a lot of smoke. Some say 120 psi. is fine. Others say its too low. Some say turbo Honda's tend to smoke a bit. I've heard I might need a re-stricter on my oil feed line. Some say check your ignition timing, mechanical timing, plug gap, etc... I don't know?....

Jo Del sol

My setup if it will help?...

Fuel/ignition

* Precision Turbo 440cc injectors
* Walbro 255lph fuel pump
* AEM fuel rail
* B&M adjustable fpr.
* B&M fuel pressure gauge (on rail)
* Russel fuel line
* 91 octane
* MSD pro cap with MSD SS coil

D16y8 Head

* Crower stage 2 turbo cam
* Crower springs
* Crower titanium retainers
* Crower adjustable cam gear
* Decked head
* Cometic head gasket
* Mild port and polish
* ARP head studs
* Hondata intake mani gasket/heat shield
* Skunk 2 intake mani
* skunk 2 70mm throttle body

D16y7 bottom end

* Golden eagle block guard
* Eagle H-beams
* JE turbo pistons (9:0:1) stock bore
* JE performer rings
* ACL bearings

Turbo setup

* Turbonetics t3/t4, stage 2, 50trim, .48 A/R
* Tuner toys schedule 40 stainless turbo mani
* TIAL 38mm wastgate (5 psi. spring for now)
* 2.5" down pipe and cat back
* HKS ssqv bov
* 2.5" stainless plumbing
* 28.5" x 9.5" x 2.5" intercooler (I think?)

Trany

* Stock flywheel for boost reasons.
* Clutchmasters, stage 3, kevlar clutch
* No lsd yet...

postman

120 is low. if your losing/burning oil, then its probably the rings. did you use a breakin procedure on the rings. if your rings arent seated in 2000 miles then something is def. wrong.

also check your timing seems odd that all 4 cylinders are low, hence the cams are not overlapping wright or the rings were just gapped way to large from the get go.

i would judge the oil loss/burning issue over a 1000 mile mark and see how low it gets. trying to do it in short mileage intervals makes it to much of a guessing game

Jo Del sol

The break in procedure was done by what SRP/JE advised. Driving stop and go. Easy on the engine. Do not lug engine. Do not exceed 2/3 maximum rpm's, and no long constant rpm (highway) driving to avoid gazing for the first 1,000 miles. So that is exactly what was done. These are the gap spec I used form JE.

Street Moderate Turbo/Nitrous

94TegOwner

yea thats deffinatly too low compression. my d16z6 with vitaras and eagles with 0.0045 pistion to wall clearance is already at 156-163 psi at 500 miles on the motor n/a, and it has a 7.8 to 1 compression ratio

rorik

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jo Del sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The break in procedure was done by what SRP/JE advised. Driving stop and go. Easy on the engine. Do not lug engine. Do not exceed 2/3 maximum rpm's, and no long constant rpm (highway) driving to avoid gazing for the first 1,000 miles. So that is exactly what was done. These are the gap spec I used form JE.

Street Moderate Turbo/Nitrous

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you familiar with the "new school" thought of engine break in?
(basically beating the crap out of the motor to seat the rings) I already knew about that before motoman's article came out, then in posts about that, people were saying the s2000's, and the wrx, just to name a couple cars, have a factory specified break in that sounds like it is similar to that procedure.
The procedure basically goes like this. Idle the motor for a short amount of time when it's first together to make sure it's legit, change the oil/filter to make sure any crap left over from assembly is gone. Then drive the car, and start getting on the gas hard and then letting off in gear, (letting the motor slow the car back down). Keep doing this and increasing the rpm every time, going through the gears until you're basically at the rev limit. The rings should mostly seat within about 20 minutes. People also break motors in on the dyno, (even with boost) and the rings seat in even less time than that.
Motoman gets into this in more detail, but how this theoretically works is there supposedly is a narrow window of opportunity to seat the rings, when the cylinder wall has the correct finish surface to do that, that finish doesn't last very long, so you need to create the cylinder pressure within that window of time. Somewhat contrary to what he and some other people in that school of thought say, I think you can still break in a motor by getting on it if you miss that "window" though, depending. The amount that the rings actually wear during the break in is tiny. My wiseco rings are coated, they have an even smaller change, since the coating is extremely thin and isn't supposed to wear off during break in.

Jo Del sol

You guys where right. It's the rings. Top and second rings in all 4 to be exact, thus 120 across the board. The ring gap is WAY too small. I read the spec sheet wrong. I'm an idiot!... Going to tear her down and see about new rings (with correct gap) and a re-hone if the cylinder walls are not completely screwed. We will see... Damn noob!