Ok, I have a turbocharged d16z6 with a p28 ecu chipped in my crx (Canadian model) and I'm throwing a code 20 (electric load detector). My idle is lumpy after my car reaches 150 degrees which at first I thought was my IACV but I changed that with a new one and the idle is still lumpy. After doing some research I learned the ELD sends a signal to the ECU telling it to alter the IACV to keep the idle at the right spot. I understand the Canadian models did not come with the ELD in the fusebox so I was wondering if this cause my shitty lumpy f'n idle. Also if I had my tuner disable the ELD with his software would my car run normal or not. Will the car run normal after disabling the ELD? I have to do an emmisions test in the next couple of weeks and if the idle is not fixed I WILL fail. Please take some time and help a brother out. I'm f'n stumped and NEED to get to the bottom of this once and for all.

Thanks
Peace.

 

Disable the ELD in the software or find an ELD and wire it up and install it.

The first option is easiest...and wouldnt affect how your car runs if tuned properly.

 

Call me crazy, but you have a blown alternator fuse. Look at the fuses under your dash.

 

yeah, deff cut off the damn eld, that **** sucks. i just swapped my p28 for a p08 in my dd. no more eld, no more f'd up idle.

 

I will check and see if my alt fuse is blown in the morning. Thanks to everyone for their time.

 

I ran into the same problem and if it's not a blown fuse then your alternator is bad.


Steve

 

Another quick question. If I do have the ELD removed from my ECU does a new "chip" have to be made or do they remove it internally from the ECU.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Death &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another quick question. If I do have the ELD removed from my ECU does a new "chip" have to be made or do they remove it internally from the ECU.</TD></TR></TABLE>

chip. you can probably find someone to do it for free if you are using crome.

might also want to look into FITV aka fast idle thermal valve as it is directly related to temperature vs idle.

are you using big injectors?

what is your a/f ratio at idle?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Death &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another quick question. If I do have the ELD removed from my ECU does a new "chip" have to be made or do they remove it internally from the ECU.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The editor disables the ELD code inside the ECU (programming). The lumpy idle is probably not caused because of the lack of a ELD.

 

the idle changes because once your engine reaches operating temperature, the ecu will switch to closed loop mode. this in turn lets the eld become active. once this becomes active your idle drops to a lower preset idle and lowers your alternators output voltage back down to around 12v. now there is an injector voltage offset that has to be set in crome or whatever, and the voltage change can ?probably? effect it. if the eld is disabled the idle will stay where you set it at in your tuning and your alternators output will stay at 14v. now a quick way to remedy this is to turn your climate control blower motor on 2 or higher and it will pull the required amount on current for the ecu to swith the idle back up and increase the alternator output. all of this info is in a flow chart of how the eld works in the oem honda service manual, so im not just pulling this out my ***.


Modified by JSPECSIR at 8:16 AM 8/29/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Call me crazy, but you have a blown alternator fuse. Look at the fuses under your dash.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Fuse looks good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

might also want to look into FITV aka fast idle thermal valve as it is directly related to temperature vs idle.

are you using big injectors?

what is your a/f ratio at idle?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If I understand things orrectly the FITV controlls cold idle(while the car is warming up). My idle when cold is perfect. It's only after my car reaches operating temps(150deg) that it gets lumpy. I'm using 450 cc DSM injectors FYI.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Death &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If I understand things orrectly the FITV controlls cold idle(while the car is warming up). My idle when cold is perfect. It's only after my car reaches operating temps(150deg) that it gets lumpy. I'm using 450 cc DSM injectors FYI. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What tuning software you using? If the FITV is staying open, it will cause the bad idle.

450cc are not hard to idle (as long as they are in good condition).

 

is this some random chip, or did someone spend some time tuning the car? if you are from the Kw area pm me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is this some random chip, or did someone spend some time tuning the car? if you are from the Kw area pm me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had my car professionally tuned @ Neetronics. I'm from the Etobicoke area BTW. I'll post up a video of my idle just so you know what I'm experiencing. Thanks.

 

I thought the canadian models did not have the ELD circuit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JaredKaragen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought the canadian models did not have the ELD circuit.</TD></TR></TABLE>That is correct. Except that he is running a USDM ecu.

You can cut the ALTF wire to try and fix the ELD code if turning it off in your software doesn't work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blown90hatcH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is correct. Except that he is running a USDM ecu.

You can cut the ALTF wire to try and fix the ELD code if turning it off in your software doesn't work. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Where can I find this ALTF wire?

 

Found it

D9-ALT F alternator Wht/Red, Alternator Charging Signal, ~4.5V KOEO; Decreases under Electrical load (Headlights & rear defogger on) At warm idle

How will cutting this wire help me out.

Thanks again.

 

The ECU has the circuit yes, but the ELD itself is in the fuse box under the hood... not present in a canadian model.

it's literally only one bit change in the ROM to turn the ELD off.

Hope this helps.