Code 11 hmm I don't know why
05-25-2012, 07:35 PM
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Code 11 hmm I don't know why
Got my exhaust completed and switch the o2 position from the wideband. Wideband is in front of o2, but I don't think that's the issue. Was crusing around town to test temps and my water gauge stayed in its normal spot but the check engine light came on. I hooked up the laptop to see what hondata error was, "Engine over heating"
My cooling setup and yes I'm turbo charged but not tuned that's why I cruise
Heat wrap downpipe and dumptube
Radiator shroud
Not sure whats going on but yes my engine is hot when I open it
My cooling setup and yes I'm turbo charged but not tuned that's why I cruise
Heat wrap downpipe and dumptube
Radiator shroud
Not sure whats going on but yes my engine is hot when I open it
05-25-2012, 07:45 PM
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05-25-2012, 09:28 PM
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Re: Code 11 hmm I don't know why
thanks for the fast reply, ill answer the questions as follows
i do not have a aftermarket water temp gauge, im just going off the factory gauge. the needle is stays right in front of the beginning of the water temp imagine, so its less than half way in other words.
my tuner set my hondata to throw a code at 220 degrees
yes the needle on the dash is working, ive seen it go all the way to H when i blow a radiator hose many years ago.
what ive notice when this happen?
ive notice the oil temp was roughly around 215-220 degrees while cruising around town. this might have triggered the sensor to do its job. my radiator fan was on and i have tested it out last night to see if itll cycle on and off. the fan is a slim i picked up at oreilys for 40 bucks, but i do plan on getting a spal fan. switching fans wont resolve the issue i think, but its a thought.
are there any ideas as to what i should to get these temps down? heat wrap my synapse ramhorn manifold?, oil cooler?, new radiator fan?, rear hood poppage? i would like to get this resolved before i visit my tuner, ya dig. dont want to go there with issues i didnt fix ya dig
i do not have a aftermarket water temp gauge, im just going off the factory gauge. the needle is stays right in front of the beginning of the water temp imagine, so its less than half way in other words.
my tuner set my hondata to throw a code at 220 degrees
yes the needle on the dash is working, ive seen it go all the way to H when i blow a radiator hose many years ago.
what ive notice when this happen?
ive notice the oil temp was roughly around 215-220 degrees while cruising around town. this might have triggered the sensor to do its job. my radiator fan was on and i have tested it out last night to see if itll cycle on and off. the fan is a slim i picked up at oreilys for 40 bucks, but i do plan on getting a spal fan. switching fans wont resolve the issue i think, but its a thought.
are there any ideas as to what i should to get these temps down? heat wrap my synapse ramhorn manifold?, oil cooler?, new radiator fan?, rear hood poppage? i would like to get this resolved before i visit my tuner, ya dig. dont want to go there with issues i didnt fix ya dig
05-26-2012, 06:06 AM
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Re: Code 11 hmm I don't know why
Chech ect sensor
Ok how can I check it if I'm not throwing a code when the car is cold?
So, I should drive around until the code returns and see what the ect degree is though hondata?
Ok how can I check it if I'm not throwing a code when the car is cold?
So, I should drive around until the code returns and see what the ect degree is though hondata?
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05-26-2012, 06:53 AM
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Re: Code 11 hmm I don't know why
hook up the lap top
start the car and watch the temps in hondata
if the car is cold ECT should be about same as ambiant temp give or take a couple of deg
let it idle up untill the fan cuts in and out twice while keeping a close eye on the temp in hondata sensor window
no need to drive it
watch for sudden spikes or slow responce
also make note as to the temp the fan kicks in and out
also if the fan is making much diffrence to the temp
start the car and watch the temps in hondata
if the car is cold ECT should be about same as ambiant temp give or take a couple of deg
let it idle up untill the fan cuts in and out twice while keeping a close eye on the temp in hondata sensor window
no need to drive it
watch for sudden spikes or slow responce
also make note as to the temp the fan kicks in and out
also if the fan is making much diffrence to the temp
05-26-2012, 07:09 AM
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Re: Code 11 hmm I don't know why
Most bad ECT sensors will give a "hot" reading even when the car is cold. that's why it could code in the first place. In essence, what this means is that the ECT's ability to read "hot" or "cold", is like many other sensors in a car; it is based upon voltage. If the voltage is not reading properly, it will give a false reading as though it is "hot" even though it is cold. The computer will have no other choice but to see it in the same way as the voltage interprets: reading "HOT". you have to see if the hondata is reading the same voltage, or if it can be altered.
If the car struggles to start even though its cold, its because the computer thinks its hot and wants to prevent further damage to the engine. If it starts up fine, and still throws a code, it very well may NOT be a voltage issue on the ECT, or the ECT at all. Time to use your critical thinking to narrow down possibilities.
05-26-2012, 10:56 AM
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Re: Code 11 hmm I don't know why
Your logic suggests that you're trying to diagnose if an ECT sensor is bad, but expecting it to work properly to sense if its not working properly. that's not going to help you.
Most bad ECT sensors will give a "hot" reading even when the car is cold. that's why it could code in the first place. In essence, what this means is that the ECT's ability to read "hot" or "cold", is like many other sensors in a car; it is based upon voltage. If the voltage is not reading properly, it will give a false reading as though it is "hot" even though it is cold. The computer will have no other choice but to see it in the same way as the voltage interprets: reading "HOT". you have to see if the hondata is reading the same voltage, or if it can be altered.
If the car struggles to start even though its cold, its because the computer thinks its hot and wants to prevent further damage to the engine. If it starts up fine, and still throws a code, it very well may NOT be a voltage issue on the ECT, or the ECT at all. Time to use your critical thinking to narrow down possibilities.
Most bad ECT sensors will give a "hot" reading even when the car is cold. that's why it could code in the first place. In essence, what this means is that the ECT's ability to read "hot" or "cold", is like many other sensors in a car; it is based upon voltage. If the voltage is not reading properly, it will give a false reading as though it is "hot" even though it is cold. The computer will have no other choice but to see it in the same way as the voltage interprets: reading "HOT". you have to see if the hondata is reading the same voltage, or if it can be altered.
If the car struggles to start even though its cold, its because the computer thinks its hot and wants to prevent further damage to the engine. If it starts up fine, and still throws a code, it very well may NOT be a voltage issue on the ECT, or the ECT at all. Time to use your critical thinking to narrow down possibilities.
well my car never struggled from start up and since you broke down the logic i can relate to that. my thinking from the start of this build has been theory, research and logic. ill let it idle in my garage (since there is no moving air) and monitor the temp from my laptop. IF the ECT is bad ill have to see what is the next step in replacing the sensor. by chance do you know what voltage its suppose to be around? im thinking it something low like 5 volts but i could be wrong. now that i think of it i already replaced the sensor with one from shmebay and its been on my new motor for about 5-6k miles. i dont want to rule out that the sensor is bad until i figure out the voltage and the temp its seeing. BUT lets say the sensor is fine, would getting a more efficient fan solve this problem or is there something else that could be causing this? i do live in hot texas so i would imagine i would have to take extra steps into making things cooler. i do have extra DEI heatwrap but unsure its enough to wrap my manifold, not sure if itll solve the problem or make it worse.
05-26-2012, 02:52 PM
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Re: Code 11 hmm I don't know why
my retune is in a few weeks. the last tune i had was about 7 months ago when i brought the car back up from the rebuild.
my question to you is this
once i get it retuned with my turbo installed could the retune fix my error?
since your in texas like me, what suggestions do you have about the battle of heat?
my question to you is this
once i get it retuned with my turbo installed could the retune fix my error?
since your in texas like me, what suggestions do you have about the battle of heat?
05-26-2012, 08:06 PM
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Re: Code 11 hmm I don't know why
Biggest radiator and fan you can fit, as much airflow to the radiator as possible even have to make some sort of air duct to direct air to the rad and that's about it. Could also go electric water pump
05-26-2012, 09:01 PM
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Re: Code 11 hmm I don't know why
im thinking it could be the fan, but i didnt touch the car today since i had did a platelet donation and i was tired from that. but tomorrow i will do more test to see what the deal is. my radiator is a aluminum 2 inch radiator with a homemade fan shroud. the fan is a oreily fan unsure on the cfm. the cfm might be ok for na but not ok for boost. the fan does cycle on and off but after city driving it may not be enough. this data was taking from thursday cruise around town. i have my front license plate offset on the passenger side, unsure if this could also cause some air blockage. tomorrow ill measure my fan and start pricing a spal replacement fan for it and also do my ect temp test.
05-27-2012, 08:22 AM
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Re: Code 11 hmm I don't know why
The ect is very easy to check.
Check the resistance across both terminals on the ect sensor with the engine cool. Record the reading should be between 1 and 2 ohms. Start the motor and bring it to operating temps and check the resistance again. Should be very low 0.4 0.5... If that check out okay start these tests
Check the wiring from the green blk wire to the junction connector under the intake manifold than to the ecu sensor ground..
Check the other wire from the ect to the ecu this is the input to the ecu...I don't know what harness you have on the motor so I can't gjve pinout locations..
If the fan doesn't turn on at operating temps do the same test. Also jump the two pins and the fan should kick on if not check the motor and radiator fan relay in the under hood fuse box.
Check the resistance across both terminals on the ect sensor with the engine cool. Record the reading should be between 1 and 2 ohms. Start the motor and bring it to operating temps and check the resistance again. Should be very low 0.4 0.5... If that check out okay start these tests
Check the wiring from the green blk wire to the junction connector under the intake manifold than to the ecu sensor ground..
Check the other wire from the ect to the ecu this is the input to the ecu...I don't know what harness you have on the motor so I can't gjve pinout locations..
If the fan doesn't turn on at operating temps do the same test. Also jump the two pins and the fan should kick on if not check the motor and radiator fan relay in the under hood fuse box.
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