good info...answers a lot of ?s

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Javier &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good info...answers a lot of ?s </TD></TR></TABLE>

It sure answered alot of my questions.

So now why wouldnt i go with SWAINTECH?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidShipCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bla bla bla... Swain tech makes there own coatings I think some of you should know that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Bla bla bla.... I work for Newman Aerospace partners who design and engineer coatings for the whole areospace industry. Doesnt mean my stuff is any better then the rest. Thats why I wont claim it is.. Hcp and Airborn were designing new coatings in house as well, the guy who worked at my company which was formerly Chromaloy went off to work for Hcp when they had a Ct partner , then went on to start Airborn coatings from what I'm told..

On a sidenote though, I'd choose Swain over the rest of the guys out there If I couldnt do stuff myself.


Modified by Tbone at 8:04 PM 8/18/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bla bla bla.... I work for Newman Aerospace partners who design and engineer coatings for the whole areospace industry. Doesnt mean my stuff is any better then the rest. Thats why I wont claim it is.. Hcp and Airborn were designing new coatings in house as well, the guy who worked at my company which was formerly Chromaloy went off to work for Hcp when they had a Ct partner , then went on to start Airborn coatings from what I'm told..

On a sidenote though, I'd choose Swain over the rest of the guys out there If I couldnt do stuff myself.


Modified by Tbone at 8:04 PM 8/18/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

First of all, did I say anything about whos the best? Punk !

 

thanks for answering all the questions inside my lil brain

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidShipCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

First of all, did I say anything about whos the best? Punk !

</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you read the post thats the question 2 people asked, why each company thought there's were better then others. I simply explained that I dont think mine is.. why does that make me a punk? wtf

We answer questions and you come back with bla bla bla and yet somehow I'm the punk?

 

anybody try the caoted clevite77 bearings yet? or
would it be better coating some stockers or ACL's instead?

Im running the 77's in my freinds motor I built fot him which is running good after 2100 miles and on mine which has 54 miles. (Just got it running last night)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you read the post thats the question 2 people asked, why each company thought there's were better then others. I simply explained that I dont think mine is.. why does that make me a punk? wtf

We answer questions and you come back with bla bla bla and yet somehow I'm the punk? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont get it why did you quote me though?

 

I just reponded to the last post which was your which followed mine.. I though you were bla bla smart talking to me when I was just giving the info that was asked.. Looked like you were talking smack as if what I was taliking about was worthless..

 

Obviously you have to keep im mind all the info above came from Swaintech, HPC's Hyper Extreme is very good anyone had it burn off?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just reponded to the last post which was your which followed mine.. I though you were bla bla smart talking to me when I was just giving the info that was asked.. Looked like you were talking smack as if what I was taliking about was worthless..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Na not talking smack here .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbozxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Obviously you have to keep im mind all the info above came from Swaintech, HPC's Hyper Extreme is very good anyone had it burn off? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hcp also does the best internal coat jobs I have seen btw.. They take their time doing that for sure.. I have donre it and its a messy pain in the butt..lol

 

Helpful links from my favorites:

Balinit Coatings

Diamonlith

Teer Coatings

 

Why don't we have a coating shootout? Coat how ever many manifolds, and heat them all till the coating starts coming off. See which one can take the most heat, or heat themm all the same temp for a certian time and see what happens to them? Also measure the temp on the outside that they are putting off. Every company is going to say their coatings are great, Jet hot even says that...(see my previous pics) and explain that? yea they look great and work, BUT DO THEY LAST!

Also refer to Geoff's signature for some more help for this thread.

 

Vouching for HPC. Not only because they're 5 miles from me but the customer service is exceptional and they are horsepower freaks like us, not just some joint trying to make money. Their prices are very affordable for anyone not to do this. I coated my InlinePro SS and my T3 exhaust housing (which looks like rusted **** uncoated) for less than $200 bux. Turnaround time was 2 to 3 days but that's without shipping and no rush on my part.

They had basically two levels of coatings. The chrome is 1300 degrees as far as I remember and the black is some crazy number above and beyond that.

HPC

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boofster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Vouching for HPC. Not only because they're 5 miles from me but the customer service is exceptional and they are horsepower freaks like us, not just some joint trying to make money. Their prices are very affordable for anyone not to do this. I coated my InlinePro SS and my T3 exhaust housing (which looks like rusted **** uncoated) for less than $200 bux. Turnaround time was 2 to 3 days but that's without shipping and no rush on my part.

They had basically two levels of coatings. The chrome is 1300 degrees as far as I remember and the black is some crazy number above and beyond that.

HPC </TD></TR></TABLE> Agreed, also it would be fairly easy to blast out a turbos exhaust housing so there may be a benefit to using HPC over Swaiintech for some..

 

This black coating on the manifold was done by a local coater's place.. GPEngineering.ca

The coating was quite good... The picture you have seen was after 10 months of driving.



.
.
.
.
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The turbocharger, up-pipe, downpipe and charge pipe was also coated by the same local coater's... If you guys want a good result, you should consider using some grinding and sanding discs to smoothen out all the cast imperfections. Once the surface is smooth, the coating always turn out a lot better

 

Again, Richard Tucker from Swain Tech. Tried to answer some of Geoff's questions.

* What are your coatings made out of?

Our thermal barrier coatings would be ceramic based as there is no better coating material for controlling heat than ceramics. The ceramics used on internal engine parts are thin enough that clearance provisions do not need to be made and are formulated to act as highly effective thermal barriers, but no too good because our best insulating materials would actually hold too much heat in the combustion chamber surfaces (top of piston, combustion chamber and valve faces) and cause
detonation. Our TBC and Gold Coat that is used on internal engine parts will be excellent thermal barriers and actually reduce instead of encouraging detonation because they are specifically formulated for internal engine use. Internal engine thermal barriers are applied about .002-.003" thick.

Our TBC-EX exhaust coating is put on in three distinct steps. First an good insulating metal bond coat is applied to provide some heat insulation and a tenacious bond to the base metal. Next a blend of ceramic and bond coat is applied to improve the thermal insulation of the coating and to help match the expansion rate of the ceramic to the base metal. Finally a top coating of highly pure ceramic is applied to offer the best insulating thermal barrier coating. Because there are no thickness limitations on exhaust coatings, we apply a coating about .015" thick.

There are different low friction/lubricating coatings that we use on different parts. All would have a high percentage of molybdenum disulfide. Most will also have a poly matrix, lubricating and corrosion inhibiting pigments, epoxies and some even have some solvents. None would have Teflon as it is the worst thing to apply to internal engine parts. We use a fair amount of Teflon on industrial parts, but never on internal engine parts because it moves or creeps away when Teflon is
under load and it actually sheds, not attracting oil so it would be a poor choice for piston skirts, bearings, valve springs, etc. where you want to attract, not shed oil with the coating and you need the coating to be durable under load.

* What are the other's coatings made out of?
When it comes to exhaust coatings, everybody else applies high temperature paints that probably have some ceramic added to it so they can call it "ceramic". If the coating is shiny, offered in various colors or is advertised with a heat rating, you can be certain you are dealing with a paint based material. With the low friction coatings, many companies apply Teflon to internal engine parts and actually promote that fact despite the fact Teflon is terrible for that type of application. Some people do apply graphite or moly disulfide but I am not aware of any that offer the complete blends that we do where we take the best of all the lubricating materials and the best binders and blend them together for the ideal low friction coatings.

* How are your coatings applied?
Most of the ceramics would start out as a solid material, be fed through a gun which makes the ceramic molten and atomized and the molten ceramic is applied directly to the substrate. It is a highly effective way to apply the materials without weakening the base metal as the base metal would rarely see temperatures over about 200 degrees F because all of the heat takes place inside of the gun, not in the part itself. The heat the part sees is simply a result of it being hit with the molten ceramic particles. This is a critical difference between us and everybody else. The paint based coatings everybody else uses should really be cured at at least 650 degrees to get it to properly bond and that is well above the temperature a piston should see without the constraints of the cylinder walls. It will weaken and soften the aluminum. On a head it is hot enough to loosen valve guides and or seats and could even warp the head.

All of our lubricating coatings would be applied as a liquid and cured but they are formulated well below the temperature where it would weaken the substrate. Cure temperature is another problem with Teflon. To really draw the low friction properties of Teflon out of a coating, it would require a cure in the 500-550 degrees F range which is simply too hot for pistons, bearings, etc.

* How are other's coatings applied?
See above.

 

Wow! This thread is *really* clearing up a lot of issues for me. Great stuff

 

Back from the dead Here are some pictures of TheShodan's coating.