Charge pipe help - CRX
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Charge pipe help - CRX
SETUP:
CRX w/ a DOHC ZC
Spoolin' manifold and downpipe A/C friendly
Precision SC50
2.25" chargepipes
I am having some clearance issues w/ the turbo and the charge pipes with this setup. Here is a picture of the turbo and manifold
Yes, I know the block is dirty - seeping gasket.
Anyway with the outlet of the turbo faced downward like that it only gives a 4" clearance to the JimFab front crossmember
Throw a silicone reducer on there and the clearance drops to about 2 inches. That is WAY to tight to fit anything besides a tight 90 degree bend in there. Because of radiator clearance issues I cannot face the outlet forward
(Also because the clearance is so tight I cannot run a dual core 1/2 width radiator)
so the only other option is to point it up and route it around the dumptube. The problem with that is that the compressor is hitting the block, where the bolts go to hold the transmission to the block
(This is where it WOULD HIT if I rotated it to point up.)
It looks like I would need to take about a 1/2" of material off of there but I am pretty nervous about removing material there. Here is how the manifold lines up w/ the turbo w/ the compressor hitting the block.
Do you have any ideas? Is removing material from the block were the bolt is threaded ok? I might have to remove up to 3/4" in order to get the clearance I need.
My life would be so much easier if the turbo was just on the other side of the manifold.
I could really use your input guys.
Thanks!
Chris
CRX w/ a DOHC ZC
Spoolin' manifold and downpipe A/C friendly
Precision SC50
2.25" chargepipes
I am having some clearance issues w/ the turbo and the charge pipes with this setup. Here is a picture of the turbo and manifold
Yes, I know the block is dirty - seeping gasket.
Anyway with the outlet of the turbo faced downward like that it only gives a 4" clearance to the JimFab front crossmember
Throw a silicone reducer on there and the clearance drops to about 2 inches. That is WAY to tight to fit anything besides a tight 90 degree bend in there. Because of radiator clearance issues I cannot face the outlet forward
(Also because the clearance is so tight I cannot run a dual core 1/2 width radiator)
so the only other option is to point it up and route it around the dumptube. The problem with that is that the compressor is hitting the block, where the bolts go to hold the transmission to the block
(This is where it WOULD HIT if I rotated it to point up.)
It looks like I would need to take about a 1/2" of material off of there but I am pretty nervous about removing material there. Here is how the manifold lines up w/ the turbo w/ the compressor hitting the block.
Do you have any ideas? Is removing material from the block were the bolt is threaded ok? I might have to remove up to 3/4" in order to get the clearance I need.
My life would be so much easier if the turbo was just on the other side of the manifold.
I could really use your input guys.
Thanks!
Chris
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Charge pipe help - CRX (red_crx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by red_crx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">save your self from headaches and get a new manifold </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why ??? it is a good manifold , the problem is that you have a crx , so no matter what you put in there it is going to be tight , i would use a allen head bolt on the turbo to manifold in that one spot, and for the bottom of the turbo just get a silicone 90 degree bend , not some e-bay crap get a good one that is nylon reinforced and just get creative on the i/c pipes
Why ??? it is a good manifold , the problem is that you have a crx , so no matter what you put in there it is going to be tight , i would use a allen head bolt on the turbo to manifold in that one spot, and for the bottom of the turbo just get a silicone 90 degree bend , not some e-bay crap get a good one that is nylon reinforced and just get creative on the i/c pipes
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Re: Charge pipe help - CRX (B18C1CYA)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxrocks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks but I have way too much $$ into the manifold to flush it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was just kidding man....are you running a single core eg rad or the full size one?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1CYA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why ??? it is a good manifold , the problem is that you have a crx , so no matter what you put in there it is going to be tight , i would use a allen head bolt on the turbo to manifold in that one spot, and for the bottom of the turbo just get a silicone 90 degree bend , not some e-bay crap get a good one that is nylon reinforced and just get creative on the i/c pipes </TD></TR></TABLE>
isn't that the truth
I was just kidding man....are you running a single core eg rad or the full size one?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1CYA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why ??? it is a good manifold , the problem is that you have a crx , so no matter what you put in there it is going to be tight , i would use a allen head bolt on the turbo to manifold in that one spot, and for the bottom of the turbo just get a silicone 90 degree bend , not some e-bay crap get a good one that is nylon reinforced and just get creative on the i/c pipes </TD></TR></TABLE>
isn't that the truth
#7
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Re: Charge pipe help - CRX (crxrocks)
I was gonna say flip the turbo around so that the compressor is on the driver's side of the motor. But with the wastegate also being on that side, combinded with this being in a CRX, it will be a tight fit. Might be worth a shot though. Also, I'm guessing you are going to be running a/c?
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#12
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Charge pipe help - CRX (crxrocks)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can you clock it to where the turbo is pointing straight up and then do some kind of crossover piping into the washer bottle hole?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxrocks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">SETUP:
so the only other option is to point it up and route it around the dumptube. The problem with that is that the compressor is hitting the block, where the bolts go to hold the transmission to the block
(This is where it WOULD HIT if I rotated it to point up.)
It looks like I would need to take about a 1/2" of material off of there but I am pretty nervous about removing material there. Here is how the manifold lines up w/ the turbo w/ the compressor hitting the block.
Thanks!
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxrocks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">SETUP:
so the only other option is to point it up and route it around the dumptube. The problem with that is that the compressor is hitting the block, where the bolts go to hold the transmission to the block
(This is where it WOULD HIT if I rotated it to point up.)
It looks like I would need to take about a 1/2" of material off of there but I am pretty nervous about removing material there. Here is how the manifold lines up w/ the turbo w/ the compressor hitting the block.
Thanks!
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Re: Charge pipe help - CRX (Dturbocivic)
cant u just flip it around?
the only way that **** is gonna work is if you make a 1/4 plate and space it out a bit, and if u run an AIR/WATER cooler.. because the piping to get that to a fmic would be a whorish bitch on a EF.
there is so little ******* room on a ef when putting a kit in your bound to run into many problems... i sure as hell did.
i say to anyone putting a kit in an EF buy traction bars along with your turbo kit. or you will sit there with a sledge for hours beating the expletive outta your stock xmember.
the only way that **** is gonna work is if you make a 1/4 plate and space it out a bit, and if u run an AIR/WATER cooler.. because the piping to get that to a fmic would be a whorish bitch on a EF.
there is so little ******* room on a ef when putting a kit in your bound to run into many problems... i sure as hell did.
i say to anyone putting a kit in an EF buy traction bars along with your turbo kit. or you will sit there with a sledge for hours beating the expletive outta your stock xmember.
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