chocolatesk8er10

First off I have searched alot on this subject but still somewhat confused because there are so many different set-ups and opinions, plus the new search engine isn't too friendly..I am in the process of putting together a turbo kit for my fully stock gsr motor.I have all of the pieces except a few odds and ends, besides a catch can.I plan to make around 300whp, daily driven. I was wondering is a catch can almost necessary on all forced induction cars??

I have seen many many set-ups and was wondering if something like this would work for me.



So I route one of the fittings on the catch can to one of the big allen bolts on the back of the block and the other fitting on the catch can to the other allen bolt and the bottom fitting on the catch can drains and T's into one of the lines running to the block? (Is this correct?) Such as..


Where can I find the fittings that go into the back of the block? (Something like this? Maybe Home Depot?)


And after all of this do I keep all of the stock PVC system intact?

Thanks and sorry for all of the questions...just got more confused after reading many different threads.

Redcoupe

I'd like for a bigger can with bigger openings. The bigger the lines, the less oil that travels with the air that flows out.

Also, you want a filter with a bigger opening. The filter inlet is too small.

You want to do a drain back setup?

boostedcivicsir

only way for that can he has to work properly is for it to drain back. it doesnt have the capacity.

you can get the honda fittings from the b20, or endyn or z10.

this is located in the faq's at the top:


https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=766009
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=722482
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=687222
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=684673
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1199935

chocolatesk8er10

So I get the z10 plug and the 2 honda fitting and remove all the stock pcv system?
So should I put a filter on the valve cover hole?

ABK

get a freeze plug fitting from your local parts store that's the right size. For your power goals just weld fittings into a valve cover. You can't run just the fittings of the back of the block because once you hit high rpms you catch can will over flow. You either run just the valve cover fittings, or valve cover fittings and two of the back of the block. I've seen problems with three built motors (two turbo, one on motor) that ran just the fittings of the back. If you want the fittings for the back of the block get them from honda, just look up 97 prelude.
It's a good idea to dump stock pcv system, they suck and stop working at high rpms even on stock motor. Then you loose power and start eating oil. On turbo motors it leads to massive amount of crank case pressure, which leads to alot of oil consumption and seals digging into the crank and such.

srmofo

B R fittings FTW....they support us, now support them.....and you cant beat their prices
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...t=b+r+fittings

Redcoupe

I understand that . I was asking to see if he had to have one or not. If he didn't, I was going to recommend something more 'street' friendly.

Personally, I am going to run 2 -10 AN fittings off the valve cover. Make a can with the 4 -10AN lines. 2 -10s going to the back of the block for drain-back.

Some people don't like the idea of 'broken down oil going back into their motor.' I don't care about that.

tony413

how did the oil breakdown ?

95dxsir2

B&R fittings FTW!!!
deffinetly check em out

ABK

oil doesn't break down because of the catch can but the problem is that alot of moisture can build up in the catch can, and if you lines are made in such way that it will drain the oil back in the motor you will get some water with your oil = messed up motor. That's why it's a good idea to run clear line so you can see if that **** turns milky.

srmofo

1) if you do regular scheduled oil changes, there will never be enough time for condensation to build up and turn your oil milky
2)iif it looks milky in a "clear" hose, then its already too late, the bearings have been damaged

ABK

ok did you happen to have first hand experience with that? Did you ever see how much moisture comes out of the catch can when you run a motor. Why don't you do that first then talk. It's funny I had some milky stuff starting to build up on the lines coming out of the catch can, so I routed my lines to make sure that **** don't make it back into the engine. Seriously if you never messed around with this stuff don't assume stuff.

ahobbs

for years i've never experienced milky oil from this. it was becuase i blew headgaskets or cracked sleeves.
as stated earlier, that can will work properly with a drain back. as long as the insides are baffled so oil doesnt pour out the filter. since your staying around 300 i see no problem with it. use -10 lines though, nothing smaller. I would say they are necessary on any FI cars. We never ran them back in the day but now it's necessary for an efficient set up. Take a peak at Tony1's profile and see what PSI he has in his crank case from his graph. It's amazing 45psi and only .1 psi in the crankcase...that's what you want

https://honda-tech.com/album.php?alb...pictureid=5757



i had an issue pulling my plugs off so brain BNR (fittings) had this made for me. i liked it better anyway because the angle drained better. i made the bracket.


this usually fills the freeze plug hole

ABK

I've seen it on three motors, just from moisture coming out the motor. Humidity around here is pretty crazy so maybe that has something to do with that, but non of those motors had any problems and one of them is over 600whp.

srmofo

yeah actually I have had first hand experience with catch cans, Ive bought 2 of them from brian and I have them on 2 of my cars....1 is a boosted lsv and the other just a DD ls eg. I dont know where you live but in ohio high humidity is not an issue...he lives in tx, I doubt its an issue there either so pay attention before you go accusing people of being wrong because you once had a problem. I have seen the condensation/sludge around the oil caps at work and my experience has always been that these cars are run in short trips mostly and never get a chance to fully heat up and evaporate the water out....same thing with exhaust that rot out quickly.......do you do most of your driving in short trips (less than 15-20min), that could have something to do with it also.

ahobbs

actually humidity kills us in texas, but i've never had a problem. i've been using catch cans since 03

chocolatesk8er10

So do you guys think I would be good with just the B&R valve cover kit?

srmofo

If your going na that would be enough....and for the sake of no more arguements, that doesn't drain back into the engine....

ahobbs

he has one that drains back just contact him and let him know you want the drain back w/ the 10an fitting

chocolatesk8er10

Well im going turbo... So if I have the valve cover one I would need the one in the back of the block too? or would I be fine with just the front valve cover

ABK

If you are not running over 20 psi you should be just fine with just valve cover ones. Ran a gsr on 20psi and it was fine, would go more but had some ignition issues and it was good enough for the street. But I sure as hell would not run b and r setup because that's a rip off. You can get a catch can of ebay (the same one that's in the first picture on top of the thread I think) for like $70, then you just need $50 in fitting and lines (some an fittings and clear hose from your local menards) and a 5 dollar freeze plug for a back of the motor. And of course get those fittings welded into the valve cover. You can build the hole setup including welding the fittings in for less the $170

I won't argue with you guys about the milky **** but I saw what I saw.

chocolatesk8er10

Alright so here's what I think I am going to do so far, correct me if im wrong...

- Weld the fittings on the front of the valve cover and get a kit like above (or similar)
- Remove stock PCV system and plug up the holes with a freeze plug and the oem honda plugs

- Put a little filter on the valve cover opening??


Will the valve cover catch can fill up fast because it has no drainback or no because not much oil will be that high in the engine, more fumes...?

ABK

I put a nipple on the valve cover opening. You only put oem honda plugs on if you want to run rear breathers as well. If not just leave them alone. Get a freeze plug for the hole where pcv box goes. Have two fittings welded in on the front of the valve cover (put them where you see in the picture above, sometimes some ramhorn setups get in the way so you have to improvise). Mount your catch can and run the lines. Ran two line setup on 20psi gsr and 13psi oil burning stock b16 no problems with catch can filling up. Also 4 line setup on built turbo 2L B. Maybe half full after 3000miles. It depends how much blow by you get I guess. If you want to pull out stock rear fittings out of the motor to put in h22 fittings you will need to use a good 14mm allen otherwise you might strip them out (they are really in there).

Oh yea almost forgot you need to pull out the fitting that's right on top of the black pcv box that the line runs to (it unscrews), and just thread in a bolt on there (it's a pipe thread so don't go crazy when it gets tight, otherwise you might damage the block). I don't think there is one on LS and b20 motors.

chocolatesk8er10

Awesome thanks for the help, anyone else wanna make suggestions just let me know

ahobbs

please do a drain back. It's more efficeint You are reliveing pressure directly from the crank case. don't waste your time dumping oil out when it can just go back through gravity