holy sh*t, i worked under that car for probably an hour and never noticed that the right side was on the jack. i only noticed that the left side was on stands.

 

The only reason I did use jack stands (not pictured) was to get the whole car up higher. I never use jackstands unless I need to.

Thanks to tegmech for all the help!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cyphear &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only reason I did use jack stands (not pictured) was to get the whole car up higher. I never use jackstands unless I need to.

Thanks to tegmech for all the help!</TD></TR></TABLE>

the idea of wearing a tow hook as a chest medalion appeals to you?

Rob

 

just 1 question: adding lenght to the piping spools the turbo faster how? if collector and tubing size are a constant then the shorter piping should spool faster no? in other words all things being equal besides lenght then shorter would be less laggy...

disclaimer: i am not a tech guy, i get all my knowledge from super street sidebars.

 

Looks nice

i would lag the collector pipe though, get more energy to the turbine and help the rad hose out

Thats a meaty downpipe too

 

cody is always quick to jump on things
it was not even 8 months ago he introduced his sidewinder
after that, he said he would be working on a cast design
and here it is! not even a year later

clears away from ac more than any other manifold
looks better than any factory turbo car manifold
why is everyone saying the collector pipe is too small?

why would they want the extra volume of a large pipe after the point where the cast manifold runners meet?.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wolfsburg2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just 1 question: adding lenght to the piping spools the turbo faster how? if collector and tubing size are a constant then the shorter piping should spool faster no? in other words all things being equal besides lenght then shorter would be less laggy...

disclaimer: i am not a tech guy, i get all my knowledge from super street sidebars.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

The most important thing in a manifold design will always be the collector. It will either make or brake a manifold design. Also because the gases are hot and expanding, the longer runner length can actually help increase velocity of the gases helping the spool.

 

What's the price on the cast sidewinder as compared to the $800 pricetag of the original sidewinder?

 

$599... i think.

 

yep, $599, and shiped to your door in 1-2 weeks, instead of the 4-6 for the welded units.

 

Very nice manifold. But the pics showing how everything is connected looks a bit confusing to me.....

Hopefully when i go turbo, this manifold would fit my DA.

PaGe 3 OwNaGeD!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dtmamg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Though a patent would be a good idea, they are not cheap. In a small, segmented area of the marketplace, such as the turbo Honda world, it would not be worth it; especially so application specific. Judging by the research Cody put in, any company trying to copy him would have a hard time trying to beat his costs/pricing.

My uncle is in a similar situation. He runs his own company doing custom circuit boards and electrical engineering designs. Several of his designs could be patented, but there is no need to because he's only selling to a small amount of customers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand what you are saying about selling to a small target market. Wouldnt a patent be a good idea because it is a reasonably cheap and effective design? Then he can license out his design to other companies and make even more money?

 

What's the life expectancy for this motor?
Looks like a "test mule".

 

a long time, its his stock engine, no reason it shouldnt last awhile if its properly tuned.
We are looking into patents, thats all on that issue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WOTTEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's the life expectancy for this motor?
Looks like a "test mule".</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why would my car would have a limited lifetime? It's a manifold.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cyphear &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why would my car would have a limited lifetime? It's a manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry about the confusion, it was an incorrect assumption.
From the engine's appearance I thought that this car is just for proof of concept and not for longevity.

[oil return line & oil pan's condition, wires everywhere, no wire loom, "tight-fit" coolant line, no overflow tank, oil seepage, etc].

 

Ah, that would be my job. Oil pan look doesn't matter, wires are being cleaned up from the nitrous install previously, tight fit coolant lines??? what else are you going to do, overflow tank is on, just needs to be mounted. Anything else?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegmech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> tight fit coolant lines??? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Its an inherent design flaw, you must trim the upper radiator hose quite a bit, and piece together your own hose. We are working on addressing this issue by a couple of means:
-Custom radiator(will be a huge upgrade from stock, and will allow MUCH easier use of this manifold).
-re-doing the cross-over piece(cost a lot of $)
-Either route will probably get its own designated metal hose.
Anything else?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tinker219 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-Custom radiator(will be a huge upgrade from stock, and will allow MUCH easier use of this manifold).
</TD></TR></TABLE>

that would be excellent...if it were cost efficient.

 

Very nice

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WOTTEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sorry about the confusion, it was an incorrect assumption.
From the engine's appearance I thought that this car is just for proof of concept and not for longevity.

[oil return line & oil pan's condition, wires everywhere, no wire loom, "tight-fit" coolant line, no overflow tank, oil seepage, etc].
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No problem, these pics were taken right when we got the car running for the first time, there were tools all over the engine bay right before the pics so the car was nowhere near daily driving reliable condition, if you know what i mean.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that would be excellent...if it were cost efficient. </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats the thing, $400 is the best we have found so far. I DO want to call a few of the aftermarket radiator companies to see what they can offer us(Fluidyne, C&R, etc).
Most people upgrade anyway, might as well get one that fits the best!(if its cost effective )

 

cody, for the upper rad hose, you should do a mandrel bent ss pipe that contours around the line and use silicone connectors on both ends. it would solve the problem and keep the coolant flow.

just a thought.

 

The problem isnt the hose itself, its the fact that you have to cut off around an inch off the actual "radiator" neck. If the "neck" could be moved to the outside(toward the passenger side) of the radiator, than it would be VERY easy to route things.
Granted, it works fine with cutting the radiator, but if someone already has a $400 C&R, they arent going to be ready to bust out the sawzall....