I got my car tuned about a week ago and it runs great, except sometimes in 4 th and almost all the time in 5th at WOT and at high rpms the car will sputter. I mean the car feels likes it's starting to break up and you can actually hear the blow off valve open and close and bunch of times realy fast. If you watch the boost guage when this happens it will go from 20 to 0 back to 20 as if i would let off the gas and than getting back on it. Would a bad ignightor cause this ? I was told by my tuner that my ignighter was on it's way out. Would that cause this or is this due to something else ?

 

Anyone ?

 

It's really hard to determine the symptom at this point and more troubleshooting will be required. It can actually be a number of things, you're gonna have perform several diagnostics and test a lot of things. I would start by looking at the simple things...gas and air filters, cap and rotor, spark plugs, wires and coil as well as the ignitor. Then go into the injectors, ignition and cam timings and A/F ratios. Do some troubleshooting and let us know how things are going. Good luck!

 

your timing could be off,its a possibility

 

I Dont think it's my timeing it was just check, and i just get tuned a week ago. My plugs are new my wires are new, my AF ratios are right were they should be. My injectors are new. My cap and rotor have not been changed so theres a lot of miles on them, I have an MSD external coil and my tuner said my Ignitor was on it's way out. So i guesing it's has to be something with my dizzy. I found a brand new one for cheap so. What do you think ?

 

Get rid of the MSD external coil and use the new dizzy. Keep in mind that generally after market products other than some name brands tend to malfunction or give out quicker. If it's a new authentic Honda dizzy that you got for cheep, I'd use that instead. Post up your timing and A/F maps so another tuner can take a look at them. What psi, MAP sensor, injector size and management are you running?


Modified by Evilparadize at 1:30 PM 4/2/2008

 

Well if you can datalog on your ems then thats your best source of information right now.It could be the ignition missing up there.

 

I would have to contact my tuner to get the maps, It should be a authentic honda dizzy i'm ordering it from distribuitor king. Will that mess up my tune at all if i get rid of the external coil ? I am running 20 psi with 1000 cc precision injectors, AEM 3.5 bar map and Ectune is what i'm tuned on

 

If you're getting it from DistributorKing then it's not an authentic Honda part, but I'm rocking one from them and it seem to perform just as good. Getting rid of the coil should not mess with your tune as your not changing timing or raising your psi, but the purpose of getting rid of that coil is to isolate the problem within the dizzy. If you have an extra set of wires and new plugs gaped correctly with the correct heat range, install them after the dizzy has been removed from the check list, even though the ones you have now were the ones you tuned with. How much WHP are you making and what is your set-up from engine to turbo? By the way, have you performed a compression and leak-down test? More than likely that won't have anything to do with your issue but can determine further engine status.

 

I picked up a new set of plugs from my tuner so I will throw thoes in. I dont have an extra set of wires but i can pick up some new ones. I am making a little over 400whp. My set up is b16a fully built 8.6.1 compression prode pistons, eagle rods all new bearings threw the engine, build and ported head crower cams,springs and retainers and valves. I have an ITR intake mani, Full-race turbo mani with a t3t04e 57 trim, full 3inch turbo back ehaust, aem fuel rail and FPR 1000cc injectors and some more stuff but you get a pretty good idea. The motor is freshley built so there is like 20 miles on the new motor but however i did a compression test along with checking valve lash and check the timeing on it before i went to get tuned and it came out fine. the compression test was a tad lower than it should be but i figured some air was escaping past the rings that have not been seated yet due to the motor not being driven. I didn't do a leak down test for that reason again the rings havent gotten a chance to seat them selfs so it probually wouldent be that acturate.

 

At first I thought you're injectors might of been too big, but they seem to be a good size for you're set-up. Wow...well, maybe it is more related to ignition rather than fuel but they do go hand-in-hand. Have you checked for proper grounds to all the connections? Could be the ECU, I read a post somewhere, were the ECU and the dizzy wouldn't work together due to the type of management, like eCtune or Neptune. To resolve this issue, an external cam sensor was installed to accurately send the signal to the ECU. I don't have any sort of link to the forum, but it was here on HT and I read about it within this week, definitely worth doing a search or if someone here knows the link to it, please help my boy out. Motor sounds pretty stout and well designed for your set-up, maybe try tuning with another type of management software or have your tuner take a second look.

 

i had the same thing happen to my crx with a GSR in it. it would sputter randomly then one day my ignitor died, this was a distributor king distributor too. i wouldnt let that discourage you though it has worked fine since i replaced the ignitor.

 

Here's a link to one that talks about the T1 cam trigger:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2101653

It's not the one I read but maybe you can talk to T1 and find out if he can help you out. Also, it was AEM EMS and not eCtune or Neptune, but still worth taking a look.

 

Here's another:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2261910

 

Ok thanks for all the help man I'll read up and do some searching i'll probually pick up a new dizzy and change my plug and see what happens i'll let you know how everything works out. It might be in a few weeks but i'll let you know.

 

Hey guys i strated this post not to long ago.. About my car sputtering i check the plugs they look fine the wires are fine. I guess the whole purpose of this is i believe the ignitor is on it's way out and I just want your guys opinion before i buy a new one. I really think it's my ignitor but the car only sputter in high 4 and mid and high 5. This is why i want to make sure it's the ignitor before i buy one. Is There a reason why it's doing this only in thoes two gears ?

 

Anyone ? I Just dont want to spend a couple hundred on something if it's not the problem . I checked all the simple things.

 

i'm having the same problem on my boosted d16. new plugs, new wires. Wasnt' doing it before but I looked at my past dyno plot and it looked liked it wasn't getting enough spark because of the jagged lines.

I changed the rotor and cap when it had about 70 or 80 thousand miles. It has about 130k right now about 5k boosted. Mabye is time to change them.

 

Hey guys I still havent got my distrbuitor yet but I was at home thinking about what could be the problem. The fact that when it sputters or breaks up, The BOV keeps opening. For example it will sputter from lets say 5500 to red line and that whole time the bov is opening and than closing and than opening again and closing. It dose this randomly but during that break up period it would happen so fast i wouldent let up on the throttle right away. Insted of this being an ignition problem could this be my bov leaking or something? and making the car sputter. It's a HKS bov

 

Any one ?