T1 cam trigger issue.
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From: hagerstown, md, united states
Wired up the T1 cam trigger to the installation instructions specs. Switched the jumpers in the AEM. Changed all the parameters in the calibrations. Go the fire, but there is no signal. logged the TPER2 and Stat Sync and nothing. There is a crank tooth per signal. Double checked all wiring and found nothing. When changing the jumpers around I used the diagram that mase had posted about a year back. What else could I have missed, or overlooked. There is a 12v source to the sensor and it is grounded. Also tried different distances for the cam trigger.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lonnie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go to his site there are revised instructions there. Strange, because I just wired one up on sun and the car fired right up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea we did terrys car not to long ago and it fired right up with the cam trigger give him a call hes a nice guy he wont bite
yea we did terrys car not to long ago and it fired right up with the cam trigger give him a call hes a nice guy he wont bite
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Attempted to trouble shoot more, but nothing. I know the sensor is picking up a signal because it is reading rpm signal. I'm stumped by this issues. I will eventually figure this one out.
Sorry Shawn, i was out of the shop most of the day, i was doing a promo deal for NHRA, just got back. I'll call you tomorrow and we'll get it figured out.
And guys, Shawn did try to call, talked to him once this morning and i have a message on my desk that he called back, he's not a dummy. lol
And guys, Shawn did try to call, talked to him once this morning and i have a message on my desk that he called back, he's not a dummy. lol
which ems are you using?? if its a 1050 there is a "hall effect power" at one of the pins, use that to power it and make sure to use a sensor ground. sometimes you can get away with using a chassis ground and a normal 12v source, but becasue of the the fairly loose tolerances in the resistors that pull it to 5 volts the signal might not be strong enough. if you dont have the 1050box do like godfather said and double make sure you still have 12v while cranking. i use the power nad sensor grounds at the distributor plug normally.. i cut the plug off the distributor and make a jumper plug to plug the hall sensor into that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're getting an rpm signal during cranking, then the power and ground have to be ok. Email me your AEM cal file and let me check it out. </TD></TR></TABLE>
that too
that too
if you have an aftermarket ecu that can use the hall effect signal it gives a much more stable and precise cam/crank position signal to the ecu for more accurate fuel and ign timing
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The only thing I can conclude from my findings is that the sensor may be bad. I used another aem and the same problem. I checked voltage at the aem to both sensor wires and they were both -4.90 or so. I love how we get to the finish line and we began to cramp up. This is definitely frustrating, but that comes with the territory.
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