EDIT: Starting issue resolved, please read on....


Modified by Boost Creep at 2:50 AM 10/13/2003

 

Check for spark, Check for fuel. Also make sure all the wires are appropriately grounded. I remember once my fuel pump would not pump because of one of the ground wires near the thermostat was loose

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRV Monster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check for spark, Check for fuel</TD></TR></TABLE>

Any ideas? I have new BKR7E spark plugs, maybe I should try the old ones?

 

Check for spark. Do you have an MSD? If so you can bypass it by wiring the white and red wires directly to the coil. Check fuses, also check fuel.

 

How can I check fuel? I don't have a MSD...

 

IF the afc doesnt turn on then it wont start. I had that problem once. Try double checking all your wiring.

 

check for fuel, pull your fuel return line off,turn the key for 1 second,if fuel comes out then your getting fuel,if it does not come out then your not getting fuel.

check your spark,pull out a spark plug,connect it to the wire and lay it on the valve cover,then turn the key over and see if you see the spark jumping or if you can hear it jumping.

do a compression test

check your timing marks on the crank and cams

check to make sure there is no oil or water in the cylinders,use a flashlight

pull all your plugs and see if they smell like fuel

 

Well it started, but it seems my head gasket is leaking oil. I have no idea why or how. It's only losing oil from that spot. Maybe the head warped?

 

Did you have the head milled or the block decked at all? If so, are you using stock dowel pins? Sometimes you have to file or sand down the dowel pins if you've removed any material from the head or block, otherwise the head will sit on top of the dowels, and the h/g won't seal properly.

 

Didn't have either done =\

I'm about to do a compression test. If the head is warped, will the compression be off? Will post results soon...

Is it possible my head bolts are no good? I reused the stock ones.


Modified by Boost Creep at 2:46 PM 10/12/2003

 

did you tighten the head bolts in the right order and to spec?

use a new headgasket?

 

Did you put the 2 dowel pins back on ? between the head and block

stan

 

We tightened the head gasket in the right order, and according to spec (63ft/lbs). I used copper spray. Was I supposed to torque the bolts a little more? I don't think the dowel pins were ever removed. I just got home from work. Gonna do the compression test soon, and post results.

 

Now I'm really scared. Here is what happened. Keep in mind that the motor was just rebuilt.

As stated earlier, there is a slight oil leak from where the head meets the block. I discovered it may be coming from a little bit higher. It could be a cam seal. I removed the spark plugs to do a compression test. I did the test from left to right (dizzy to timing belt) The first two spark plugs looked brand new (plugs are brand new). The 3rd was dark brown, and the fourth was light brown. I then did the compression test, and got the following results. Keep in mind I did it from left to right, so the first # corresponds to the cylinder closest to the distributor.

185, 60 , 175, 180

60?! I have no clue why this is 60. Maybe my leak has to do with the head gasket? I don't think it's leaking around that area though. I'm very frustrated at this point. I've put way too much time/blood/work/tears/sweat into the car and I'm starting to think it's not worth it.

Anyway, right before I did the compression test, I bought a head from a friend. I thought maybe mine was warped from removing the head bolts in the wrong order ( ). I also ordered a new head gasket. Now I'm afraid these won't solve my problem.

Any help/input/advice would be greatly appreciated. I just want to be back on the road


Modified by Boost Creep at 3:55 AM 10/13/2003

 

the headgasket could definitely have caused that, as could a warped head. if its from the cam seal obviously not though... id take the head off and have it checked as well as examining the headgasket. also, if it IS your headgasket, your oil should be milky and your coolant should be becoming milky as well. Bubbling coolant is another sign. Theres other ways to check it but that is usually the quickest.
sam

 

I haven't driven the car since the rebuild. When I started it, I noticed the oil leak and didn't drive it. The oil that is leaking seems to be very clean.

 

gotcha. id see if its the cam seal thats leaking and then come back and talk to us agian. too many confounding variables.

 

Even if it is the cam seal that's leaking, I still don't know why that cylinder's compression is so low. I have a feeling if I put the new head and head gasket on, the leak will be gone, but the compression on that cylinder will still be low.

The car starts up perfectly, idles fine, sounds great. I just don't understand...

 

Just took the car around the block. It's a little boggy. Didn't go over 3kRPM though and gave it very little throttle. I took a video of the motor running. Would the car even start/run if the 60psi compression issue had to do with the bottom end?

 

One more question...sorry this is tearing me up. If I did a leakdown test, and it was the head or head gasket, where would the pressure exit from?

 

hell yea... ive seen motors with like 30 compression in each cylinder start.