car drives really weird now after turbo is installed.
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car drives really weird now after turbo is installed.
ok first off ive got a y7 turbo'd now, my car idles really rough at 1500, like u can hear it rev up and down real quickly at 1500, and then i need to gas up to 2000 rpm before i can move otherwise it shakes violently, and then drives fine after that up until 5500 rpm, while getting on it it sounds like it backfires or misfires and i lose power. anybody know what it could be??
mods-log mani, te04h turbo, 2.5 full exhaust, no cat, dsm 450's, resistor box, intercooled.
mods-log mani, te04h turbo, 2.5 full exhaust, no cat, dsm 450's, resistor box, intercooled.
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Re: car drives really weird now after turbo is installed. (yoRt)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civic082382 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when was the last time you had your car tuned?</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Re: car drives really weird now after turbo is installed. (GT35R_EF)
it just has a phearable chipped ecu and because my car is a y7 it has a 3 wire iacv and john from phearable said he could disable it.
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Re: car drives really weird now after turbo is installed. (yoRt)
is it anything i should worry about too much? can i still get on it? i should get a dyno tune correct? and also whats the going rate for tuning a car of my status?
#7
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You can get on it, but it isn't a wise idea. God knows what your AFRs are like. The basemap could be close or it could be way off. I would suggest tuning before you're in need of a new motor.
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Re: (Schister66)
ive also had a few people respond to me saying i should get colder plugs and that will help with my top end misfire-ee sound.
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Re: (srmofo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yoRt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok first off ive got a y7 turbo'd now, my car idles really rough at 1500, like u can hear it rev up and down real quickly at 1500, and then i need to gas up to 2000 rpm before i can move otherwise it shakes violently</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yoRt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it just has a phearable chipped ecu and because my car is a y7 it has a 3 wire iacv and john from phearable said he could disable it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You answered your own question, disabling the iacv will cause that light throttle "shutter".
Secondly, get the car properly tuned by someone who knows what they are doing, this is obviously over your head.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yoRt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it just has a phearable chipped ecu and because my car is a y7 it has a 3 wire iacv and john from phearable said he could disable it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You answered your own question, disabling the iacv will cause that light throttle "shutter".
Secondly, get the car properly tuned by someone who knows what they are doing, this is obviously over your head.
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Re: (90sedan)
well no **** some of this is over my head thats y im asking what my car is doing
i think ive figured that my top end problem is from the plugs/wires and my bottom end problem may be because im getting too much voltage to the t.b. and it just stays at 1500? is there any way to change that?
i think ive figured that my top end problem is from the plugs/wires and my bottom end problem may be because im getting too much voltage to the t.b. and it just stays at 1500? is there any way to change that?
#12
Man U FTW
Are you really this dense? GET YOUR CAR TUNED. That's the problem.
You also need a set of colder plugs. Get a set of NGK BKR7e's and check that they're all gapped around .30". That will fix the breakup provided it isn't a fuel-related breakup. Then get the damn thing tuned before you blow up it and bitch about it.
You also need a set of colder plugs. Get a set of NGK BKR7e's and check that they're all gapped around .30". That will fix the breakup provided it isn't a fuel-related breakup. Then get the damn thing tuned before you blow up it and bitch about it.
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Re: (Schister66)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yoRt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well no **** some of this is over my head thats y im asking what my car is doing
i think ive figured that my top end problem is from the plugs/wires and my bottom end problem may be because im getting too much voltage to the t.b. and it just stays at 1500? is there any way to change that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have the iacv disabled. Therefor the throttle must be open a slight amount for the car to even idle. And that's why it is idleing at 1500rpms, otherwise the car will not run.
Get the car tuned and wire up the correct iacv. End of story.
i think ive figured that my top end problem is from the plugs/wires and my bottom end problem may be because im getting too much voltage to the t.b. and it just stays at 1500? is there any way to change that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have the iacv disabled. Therefor the throttle must be open a slight amount for the car to even idle. And that's why it is idleing at 1500rpms, otherwise the car will not run.
Get the car tuned and wire up the correct iacv. End of story.
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Re: (yoRt)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yoRt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what iacv can i wire up to my intake manifold? or how hard is it 2 switch from 3wire to 2wire iacv?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no its not hard, you just get the proper iacv(b16 style, ls style, d16....etc) just get a 2 wire plug style with the same bolt pattern. the get plug and wire it up to the correct wires.
you should get mad when people are telling you that your in over your head. don't push it, dont do anything harsh to it until you get tuned. the reason it prolly idles rough is you a/f are so rich at idle(ring wash out). base map is a base map, they should be relyed on... a f/i car.
no its not hard, you just get the proper iacv(b16 style, ls style, d16....etc) just get a 2 wire plug style with the same bolt pattern. the get plug and wire it up to the correct wires.
you should get mad when people are telling you that your in over your head. don't push it, dont do anything harsh to it until you get tuned. the reason it prolly idles rough is you a/f are so rich at idle(ring wash out). base map is a base map, they should be relyed on... a f/i car.
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Re: (ABK)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and then drives fine after that up until 5500 rpm, while getting on it it sounds like it backfires or misfires and i lose power.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like its going lean past 5500rpm... goodbye ringlands.
Sounds like its going lean past 5500rpm... goodbye ringlands.
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Re: (Flashmn)
ive diagnosed the misfire after 5500 to be because iam running the ngk vpower plugs, gapped at .45 or .48. ive come to find out that turbos also dont like platinum plugs or that much of a gap, but i bought a set of autolite copper plugs, that are the same part number as the 1 range colder plugs from ngk, so that will help my misfire, and my car ticks because i have an exhaust leak right at the d.p. which i got a copper gasket for now so that noise will be gone. just need to figure out a way to get an iacv on it.
the basemap is a phearable basemap, and if anybody has done any reading about john vega's work, he's a genius when it comes to this stuff so i dont feel like its my tune, i just need to fix a few little things.
the basemap is a phearable basemap, and if anybody has done any reading about john vega's work, he's a genius when it comes to this stuff so i dont feel like its my tune, i just need to fix a few little things.
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Re: (yoRt)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yoRt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive diagnosed the misfire after 5500 to be because iam running the ngk vpower plugs, gapped at .45 or .48. ive come to find out that turbos also dont like platinum plugs or that much of a gap, but i bought a set of autolite copper plugs, that are the same part number as the 1 range colder plugs from ngk, so that will help my misfire, and my car ticks because i have an exhaust leak right at the d.p. which i got a copper gasket for now so that noise will be gone. just need to figure out a way to get an iacv on it.
the basemap is a phearable basemap, and if anybody has done any reading about john vega's work, he's a genius when it comes to this stuff so i dont feel like its my tune, i just need to fix a few little things.</TD></TR></TABLE>
dude it doesn't matter if god himself made the base map the fact is it is indeed a BASEMAP its meant to safely get you from point a to a tuner nothing more
ask phearable and i bet he tells you the exact same thing
the basemap is a phearable basemap, and if anybody has done any reading about john vega's work, he's a genius when it comes to this stuff so i dont feel like its my tune, i just need to fix a few little things.</TD></TR></TABLE>
dude it doesn't matter if god himself made the base map the fact is it is indeed a BASEMAP its meant to safely get you from point a to a tuner nothing more
ask phearable and i bet he tells you the exact same thing
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