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Old 08-08-2013, 11:35 PM
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Default Can I drive it?

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Last edited by xesvuli420; 08-10-2013 at 12:47 PM.
Old 08-08-2013, 11:51 PM
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Default Re: Can I drive it?

Low load idle its no big deal . Check your plugs
Old 08-09-2013, 12:10 AM
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Default Re: Can I drive it?

17 - 20 is dangerous ... get all the vac lines hooked up... make sure R2 and R3 is cut in your ecu, set up your voltage tables set up for the wideband adjust the voltage correction (if needed) and add fuel... depending on what clutch you have shuttering is normal for a new clutch being let out just a little bit if its unsprung
Old 08-09-2013, 12:13 AM
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Default Re: Can I drive it?

whats your fuel pressure???
What plugs???
What engine???
Compression???
Have you set your timing using the S300???
Have you set up your TPS in S300???
Have you adjusted your map for the 550cc injectors???

What I'm trying to get at here is there probably a better map preloaded on the s300 that will better run the car then the map you were given...
Old 08-09-2013, 11:08 AM
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Default Re: Can I drive it?

Originally Posted by JDMAF
17 - 20 is dangerous ... get all the vac lines hooked up... make sure R2 and R3 is cut in your ecu, set up your voltage tables set up for the wideband adjust the voltage correction (if needed) and add fuel... depending on what clutch you have shuttering is normal for a new clutch being let out just a little bit if its unsprung
I will get the vac lines hooked up as soon as possible... But that's not effecting anything at idle is it?

What about the oil pressure?

R2 and r3? The only thing I cut was d10. Then I disabled eld in s300, and told the computer that d10 was now wideband.

As far as the voltage tables, I don't know if they need to be changed or not. What do I look for? I have the sheet that list the tables that came with the gauge.

Is there a way I can see what the s300 is saying I'm running at?
I have a cc stage 2.

Thanks
Old 08-09-2013, 12:16 PM
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Default Re: Can I drive it?

Go to the tuner open down pipe and be done with it. I got my base map from a very reputable place and T1 said my base map really sucked. Drive minimal amounts and go get tuned.
Old 08-09-2013, 12:22 PM
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Default Re: Can I drive it?

So it's safe to drive to the exhaust shop and to the tuner with those reading?

Just don't want to do anything to even take a chance in hurting the motor. I've spent way too much scrilla to go pop!

Thanks again
Old 08-09-2013, 12:25 PM
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Default Re: Can I drive it?

If my AFR's were 17-20 I wouldn't drive it. Pull some plugs they should be white as hell if your wideband is telling the truth.
Old 08-09-2013, 12:27 PM
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Default Re: Can I drive it?

you could always tow it...
Old 08-09-2013, 01:42 PM
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Default Re: Can I drive it?

Could the readings be off with the open DP??

Is there a way to see what the controller is telling the ECU?

Is there a way to test the gauge?
Old 08-09-2013, 06:24 PM
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Default Re: Can I drive it?

yes you must cut R2 and R3 resisters in the ecu for D10 to read correctly... they are mid left and low on the board...

What wideband do you have??? what your looking for is your 0v and 5v value... then click on the Closed loop advanced then input those values in the table that is named voltage / lambada conversion table. After that go to your "tables" click on the lambada overlay button right below the help menu... this will show you what the S300 sees...start the car, look at the gauge and then the screen are the readings the same??? if not you will have to go back to your closed loop advanced and mess with the voltage offset till the s300 and the wideband gauge match... typically it will be like -.21 or so

Once you have them reading the same or damn close.... go back to your tables click on the estimated fuel change button right next to the lambada overlay button you hit earlier... this will show you about what you will need to add to get to 14.7...

get used to hitting control+L now... so hit control L to clear the screen... while at idle give her a little gas, DO NOT rev the **** out of it... take it to like 2000 and let go... this will fill in a few boxes... you will notice that it likes to idle in the same place... click on that box and hold then drag a few boxes around it... they all should be close to the same... right click in this box you made select adjust and lets say all your boxes are around 7 or 8... so put a 7 or 8 in the percent adjustment.... if they are all -7 or -8 put -7 or -8... this will get you idling close to 14.7

this means nothing if you have not set your timing, tps, injector dead time and idle first... if you need help with that just ask...
Old 08-10-2013, 12:38 AM
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Default Re: Can I drive it?

Originally Posted by JDMAF
yes you must cut R2 and R3 resisters in the ecu for D10 to read correctly... they are mid left and low on the board...

What wideband do you have??? what your looking for is your 0v and 5v value... then click on the Closed loop advanced then input those values in the table that is named voltage / lambada conversion table. After that go to your "tables" click on the lambada overlay button right below the help menu... this will show you what the S300 sees...start the car, look at the gauge and then the screen are the readings the same??? if not you will have to go back to your closed loop advanced and mess with the voltage offset till the s300 and the wideband gauge match... typically it will be like -.21 or so

Once you have them reading the same or damn close.... go back to your tables click on the estimated fuel change button right next to the lambada overlay button you hit earlier... this will show you about what you will need to add to get to 14.7...

get used to hitting control+L now... so hit control L to clear the screen... while at idle give her a little gas, DO NOT rev the **** out of it... take it to like 2000 and let go... this will fill in a few boxes... you will notice that it likes to idle in the same place... click on that box and hold then drag a few boxes around it... they all should be close to the same... right click in this box you made select adjust and lets say all your boxes are around 7 or 8... so put a 7 or 8 in the percent adjustment.... if they are all -7 or -8 put -7 or -8... this will get you idling close to 14.7

this means nothing if you have not set your timing, tps, injector dead time and idle first... if you need help with that just ask...
holy crap... yea thats way over my head! lol

I talked to the makers of my wideband and my tuner about how to install everything to get it ready for tune, and neither one of them said anything about cutting resistors, or anything like that. They said to install the sensor, run it to the control box, and then to the gauge. If I wanted to I could hook up the control box via its analog output to the ecu by swapping out d10, and disabling ELD. That alone was extremely technical for me lol. Keep in mind Ive opened the smanager maybe 3 times. i am brand spanking new to this! Even smanager says "Note that if the ELD input (D10) is used then R136 and R138 (US ECUs) may need to be removed" so R2&3 or R136&138, neither, both..?

So to save my tuner extra work I tried to do this for him... I may have done more harm then good lol. other then that I haven't done anything. i'm not really sure what im doing at all. So much stuff over my head, and I just want to make sure my gauge is working, and that i can get my car to the tuner without exploding.

I want to learn but i need the beginners book!

No one has an opinion on my oil pressure?

thanks again guys.
Old 08-10-2013, 10:30 AM
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Default Re: Can I drive it?

Originally Posted by xesvuli420
No one has an opinion on my oil pressure?
Unless you don't have a honda, but I'll assume you have some sort of bseries.

So that oil pressure is normal.
Old 08-10-2013, 02:15 PM
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Default Re: Can I drive it?

sorry R2 and R3 are for Input B6 I apologize... Can't remember everything... lol
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