austrian type-R

I´ve the Haltech e6k laying at home and I´m a bit confused about it.

My main question:
Should I cut the wires to the sensors from the stock harness and connect the Haltech wires to the stock harness leading to the stock sensors (I know the sesnors are working with the Haltech)? Or is it a MUST when I wire them together, so that the Haltech AND the stock ECU get the readings from all the sesnors.

The wires for those 3 ignition (trigger) sensors must be cut, so that the stock ECU can not control the ignition, correct? …..and those 24 teeth sensor and 1 teeth sensor, yada yady yada, must I do special work to those, that the Haltech gets the correct firing devices?

The 4 Injectors are disconect to the stock ECU and connect to the E6K. okay!

other q´s
What is about the Thermofan? Can It be controled by the stock ECU (I guess only when I don´t cut the coolant sensor, correct), otherwise it is out of function when it will be controled by the stock ECU.

What is about the fuel pump? Can it be controled by the stock ECU or MUST it be controled by the Haltech. Why should´nt it be controled by the stock ECU?

Man, so many questions, please help out, I want to understand when I beginn the install in 1-2 weeks.

When, my thinking above is correct, I´ll get some cels from the stock ECU, cause the injectors and triggers are´nt connected to the ECU, correct.

Sorry guys, my questions sounds like a newbie on this stuff. I hope I´ll getting this thing to work before I die.

BlueShadow

here is DirtyLude's install instructions, it is for a Lude but maybe you can see similarities. maybe he'll see this and offer some advice too.

http://www.hondaprelude.to/articles/inst-e6k.html

austrian type-R

Thanks! but I know this article already.

turbotypeR@SPEC

the haltech will replace your factory ecu.i had one and installed it in the same place as the factory ecu.i wound up cutting out the factory harness because if you don't,there will be a mess of wiring.as far as the trigger goes,use a crank sensor.it will be much better.i never could get it to work very good with a cam sensor.it will be much easier if you do a crank sensor in the first place.the ignition will be controled by the haltech.that is one of the reasons you buy a stand alone.you shouldn't have to use any factory sensors.the haltech should have came with all the sensors you need.the only thing you have to change from the factory ecu is that there are two wires you have to put together for the air conditioning.

BlueShadow

Doh!! *BlueShadow Slaps himself in the forehead*


turbotypeR is correct you want to replace the stock sensors with the Haltech supplied sensors.

DirtyLude

Use the stock triggers. The OBDII B18C5 has a crank trigger. There's no need to change.

Trying to leave the stock ECU in is going to be a hassle. I can't think of any reason to try. You have a Helms manual, right? You should be able to match up most of the wires yourself. All I did with the sensors is cut the stock wiring at the sensor and connect the Haltech supplied GM sensor. The only two sensors you need to replace is the Air Temp and Coolant temp, and you don't really need to replace those if you don't mind spending time redoing the coolant and air correction tables.

Sorry, I still haven't replied to your e-mail. I got very drunk last night.

austrian type-R

I know that with the two sensors, thanks.
do have headage? hehe
But can anyone explain me, when the stock ECU is removed, how will act my speed meter and rev meter? This meters are getting there signals from the ECU, correct?

About the triggers: Do I have to remove any of those teeth sensors and turn them 180 degs around like shown on your homepage? Are all 3 sensors located in the distributor? OR do I have to remove parts from the crank (like belts and pulleys) to get this sesnor?

I need a German manual for the Haltech, I get crazy with my english one and using a German workshop book for the car.


[Modified by austrian ITR, 5:45 PM 12/13/2001]

DirtyLude

You don't need to move any of the trigger sensors around if you plan to use sequential injection. If you want to run batch fire for some reason, you would have to phase the TDC wheel.

Your tachometer and speedometer are seperate from the ECU. The ECU is not needed to run these things.

Yes, I have a headache and Thursdays are the days I fly home.

austrian type-R

Okay,

Then it should not be such a big pain in the *** like I thought. I remove only the two sensor you mentioned with the Haltech suplied one. All other can be used, since they are compatible.

The cell light has no function anymore after the ECU swap?

I need to attach the fuel pump and the a/c to the Haltech ECU. All sesnors, ignition and injectors. Thats all about. Cool. It sounds that easy, so what´s the big deal on it. So much peaople talking about troubles with their standalones. Or maybe the hook up on a Honda engine is easier than on Toyotas or Nissans.


[Modified by austrian ITR, 6:15 PM 12/13/2001]

DirtyLude

You don't need to hook up the fuel pump directly to the E6K, you can use the stock fuel pump relay. I don't know what I was doing wrong before, but you should be able to hook the BLACK/YELLOW that goes to the E6K fuel pump relay directly to the fuel pump ECU wire.

Never did manage to try the A/C. You're going to have to hook the Aux In wire to the A/C request ECU wire and hook one of the PWM outputs up to the A/C clutch relay ECU wire.

austrian type-R

Thx very much!

You don´t need to answer my Email, cause my current questions are answerd, but there will be some in the future for sure. hehe

For some questions I can ask my tuner too. He was the reaon why I bought me the Haltech instead of Hondata. He has tuned more than 30 cars with the Haltech.

turbotypeR@SPEC

the stock tach will not work witout the ecu.at least it did not on mine.it does control the ignition.i hooked the tach wire to my msd box and mine worked just fine.you do not have to hook anything on the a/c to the ecu.there are two wires that i put together(don't remember which)on mine and it worked fine.