I had a PWR. It fit fine, looked fine, but it had problems w/ sending coolant into the overflow. Don't know if it was a bad cap or what, but everytime I ran the car hard i would end up w/ a overflow tank full of coolant. Swapped it out for a stock radiator and the problem stopped. I do like the C&R cause it comes w/ a nice fan already assembled on it all pretty like. Im lazy so thats appealing to me. If I were to do it again I wouldn't have bought an aftermarket radiator at all. At least not till the stock one blew up or cracked.

 

whats the relationship with blowing a HG and the radiator?

 

Remember if you are putting a 1/2 sized rad in your EF that only the C&R is the right (EF) height. I tried using a PWR 92+ civic rad with Z10 crossmember thinking it would work. The Placeracing crossmember sits lower and will allow this setup. However the PWR was a great deal and I would use it if it fit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by azulito &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remember if you are putting a 1/2 sized rad in your EF that only the C&R is the right (EF) height. I tried using a PWR 92+ civic rad with Z10 crossmember thinking it would work. The Placeracing crossmember sits lower and will allow this setup. However the PWR was a great deal and I would use it if it fit. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Racerxadam is having the same problem. Apparently Z10 has 2 traction bars available just for this application. ---&gt;1 for stock sized radiator, and 1 for half sized.

 

well the 99/00 SI comes stock with a SINGLE core rad.
i decided i migth aswell upgrade and got a pwr one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cramerox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the relationship with blowing a HG and the radiator?</TD></TR></TABLE>
With a leaking HG, boost goes into the coolant passage, putting a lot of pressure on the radiator and any hoses connected to it.

 

Arent the cores the same, just ones a full sized and ones a half sized?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DIRep972 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a PWR. It fit fine, looked fine, but it had problems w/ sending coolant into the overflow. Don't know if it was a bad cap or what, but everytime I ran the car hard i would end up w/ a overflow tank full of coolant. Swapped it out for a stock radiator and the problem stopped. </TD></TR></TABLE>Definitely the cap. PWR got a bad batch of caps a while back.

 

I just had the opportunity to read this post. I would like to share some of our knowledge about cooling systems. The majority of our radiator business is in Nextel Cup, IRL, CART and other forms of professional motorsports. That has allowed us to do a lot of testing of our products. There are a lot of good points in this post, but some of the information is a bit misleading.

Heat rejection in a radiator is a function of air flow / velocity and water flow. As far as air flow we need to look at how much stuff is in front of the radiator. If you have a front mount intercooler on your car it is a large restriction on air flow to your radiator. We have done wind tunnel testing on our radiators. The results of those tests have shown that air entering a radiator 200mph, exits the radiator at 14mph. Granted, this is a 4” thick 22 fin per inch super speedway radiator, but this illustrates the point.

On a turbo charged daily driven Honda making 350whp our average speed on the highway is maybe 75- 80mph. By the time the air goes through the front mount intercooler with 10 to 15 fins per inch. We can safely say that we have lost 60-70% of the air flow velocity. At this point if you have a radiator that is too thick or with too dense of a fin count, it will stall the air flow before it even enters the radiator. So, when you are selecting a radiator for a particular application thicker and a denser fin count is not always better.

As for water flow, the less restriction in the system the better. The more times you can cycle the water through the system the more efficient it is.

The radiator is the center of the cooling system. Although if the other components of the cooling system are not up to the task there will be problems. The pressure at which the system operates is vary important. We supply 19-21 psi caps with all of our radiators. Raising the pressure in the system raises the boiling of the water, as well as improving the water contact to the back side of the combustion chamber. All aluminum radiators must use distilled water and a water conditioner. Not only does this cool better but it prevents oxidation inside the radiator. In the winter months run 50% distilled water, a water conditioner and 50% coolant.

If you have any questions feel free to email me.


Kevin VanCleave
C&R Racing

kevinv@crracing.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The C&R is a much better quality radiator. Look at the two next to each other and there's no question about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

good post Kevin and welcome to H-T.