RIPPO

i have a question for all you people out here boosting...

i blew my crankshaft on my b18 in my ek and was wondering if i plan on boosting it soon is there any part down there that i should swap out as well so i don't do things twice?> help is greatly appreciated thanks

non-VTEC

you need to elaborate a little.......how did you "bust" the crankshaft?

chances are you need to replace the entire engine if that was the case..

DaveF

better check them clearances, balanced, and have your **** magnaflux'd next time

we are running over 800 whp with a stock LS crank

RIPPO

when i start the car it makes a loud knocking noise and after the car warms up it kinda goes away but then if you try to drive it then you can hear it. i thought the trans. fluid might have been empty or something so i took it to a shop to get it checked out and they said it's most likely the crankshaft. here's the list of what they would replace....

LABOR
1. Pull Out/Install Motor
2. Disassemble/Assemble Motor
-Replace Crankshaft
-Replace Oil Pump
-Replace Bearings
3. Recondition Rods
PARTS
1. Head Gasket
2. OE Lower Gasket and Seals
3. 1 set Engine Bearings
4. Coolant, Motor Oil/Filter, Trans Fluid
5. 1 OE Oil Pump
6. 1 Used Type-R Crankshaft

LilCivic04

just an idea, but have you check valve clearances? they tick to

tek_civic

what was your oil level like when this started?

it could be a rod bearing, usually those go before the crank.

this is what i did when this happend to me;

ran the engine, disconnected each plug wire until i found which cyl the knocking was comming from(it will stop when you pull the right wire). once i found which rod was the problem i dropped the pan and inspected the bearing. i found that the bearing had spun and there was very little bearing still left. i turned the crank and checked the end play and verticle play(which was ok). i poilished the crank with this polishing strip thing. then i installed new bearings and and plasti-gauged the rod cap/bearing. bolted the rest together and she has run fine for a long time now.

if this were a race motor i would probably have removed the crank and either replaced or regrinded it.

RIPPO

i did the same thing and it was cyl. #3. how much do you think that is gonna be to fix? and if im down there is there anything i should swap out if i plan on boosting it soon?

EnzoSpeed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RIPPO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i start the car it makes a loud knocking noise and after the car warms up it kinda goes away but then if you try to drive it then you can hear it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's a tell-tale sign of a spun bearing. Get a stethescope and pinpoint the noise, then get back to us.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i took it to a shop</TD></TR></TABLE>

That was your first mistake. Please, don't pay anyone anything until we've helped you here.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">6. 1 Used Type-R Crankshaft </TD></TR></TABLE>

You NEVER mix and match different cranks/blocks. That fact that the shop is willing to do so is a good indication of their level of incompetance.

99B16Si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You NEVER mix and match different cranks/blocks. That fact that the shop is willing to do so is a good indication of their level of incompetance.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Seriously? re-think what you just said, then edit your post.

bdavis

check your oil. if its shiny and there are little metal flakes then you spun a bearing. you can put a new crank in, but it will probably be easier if you pull the motor. you will have to pull the tranny and timing belt either way

mrbsponge

you can mix and match crankshafts all day long, but you should always keep the blocks main caps and end caps, they were meant for that block.

sounds like you spun a bearing, i just fixed this on a customers car last week

pull the motor apart and run it down to a mchine shop have the gauge the rod bearing journal and see if it can be polished out, if not source another crank and follow the service manuals rebuild step by step, not hard at all

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

I like how you think it was a busted crankshaft then said it went away when it warmed up... lol mmmkay

EJ1 wilcox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I like how you think it was a busted crankshaft then said it went away when it warmed up... lol mmmkay</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol. No doubt.

If he had a busted crankshaft it wouldn't even think of starting.

RIPPO

sounds funny but it's true when the car gets warmed up it doesn't make the knocking sound but the minute you try to drive it then it starts making that noise. ya i know it sounds freakin retarded but yah i dunno why it does it either.

RIPPO

i wish i had a damn cherry picker and all the tools to do it my self but i don't. and i live out in vegas now not cali so it's much harder to get shiet done out here

mrbsponge

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RIPPO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds funny but it's true when the car gets warmed up it doesn't make the knocking sound but the minute you try to drive it then it starts making that noise. ya i know it sounds freakin retarded but yah i dunno why it does it either.</TD></TR></TABLE>

reason is because of low oil pressure conditions

-on start up
-or give the car a quick throttle stab
-hold the E brake, and slowly let the clutch out in 1st gear


these conditions will give you low oil pressure, or somewhat trying to starve the bearings, and you will hear it tap, but when you rev it up it goes away....right

tek_civic

read what i wrote and others, tell us the cylinder it is, and we can tell YOU how to fix it. its really not a hard fix either. all you need are some basic hand tools. some plasti-gauge($1) some polishing band($2) and some grunt work. oh and new bearings and oil($40 or so).

as for while your down there. you could get a crank gurdle, whatever they call it. the piece of metal that ties all the main caps together to make the bottom end more solid and resistant to high hp and in-harmonics.

RIPPO

ya. i think i might need a new OP sensor too.