Damnit, the tapping noise
01-13-2006, 02:50 PM
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Damnit, the tapping noise
after building my motor, then cranking it up, and taking it for a granny of a test drive on the stock ecu i noticed a slight knocking sound, coming from my motor, being the paranoid engine builder i am (and being pretty pissed off) i took everything back apart and started inspecting the bearings, one was messed up.... i guess there was debri still in my crank from the weight reduction and micropolish.. so i took the crank back out of the motor took it to my machine shop and had them repolish it and check my rods and crank for roundness, everything turned out ok. Sooo, i reassembled the motor, and started it right up and went for another test drive, got home, listened for the knocking sound, and it wasnt there, but now there is this tapping sound, and the only place you can hear it is laying under the car (unlike the knocking that you could hear from the top also). so i took the damn thing apart again, and the bearings were perfect, so i had come to the conclusion that it was the tray that was rattling because the previous owner of the block stripped out just about every single bolt hole in the block, so i wasnt able to get any bolts in there at first, but i was able to this time...... well guess what tapping is still there and its pissing me off. ok, once again you can only hear it from the bottom of the car, second the sound comes from the are about where the main closest to the tranny, or the #4 rod is. so quite honestly im fed up with the **** and i really want to know what the hell the problem is and where the hell the sound is comeing from. so any advice, or things to check would be great help, i have assembled many motors and this is the only one that ive had trouble with, and its getting under my skin.
01-13-2006, 03:56 PM
#2
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Re: Damnit, the tapping noise (turbodohcsi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbodohcsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after building my motor, then cranking it up, and taking it for a granny of a test drive on the stock ecu i noticed a slight knocking sound, coming from my motor, being the paranoid engine builder i am (and being pretty pissed off) i took everything back apart and started inspecting the bearings, one was messed up.... i guess there was debri still in my crank from the weight reduction and micropolish.. so i took the crank back out of the motor took it to my machine shop and had them repolish it and check my rods and crank for roundness, everything turned out ok. Sooo, i reassembled the motor, and started it right up and went for another test drive, got home, listened for the knocking sound, and it wasnt there, but now there is this tapping sound, and the only place you can hear it is laying under the car (unlike the knocking that you could hear from the top also). so i took the damn thing apart again, and the bearings were perfect, so i had come to the conclusion that it was the tray that was rattling because the previous owner of the block stripped out just about every single bolt hole in the block, so i wasnt able to get any bolts in there at first, but i was able to this time...... well guess what tapping is still there and its pissing me off. ok, once again you can only hear it from the bottom of the car, second the sound comes from the are about where the main closest to the tranny, or the #4 rod is. so quite honestly im fed up with the **** and i really want to know what the hell the problem is and where the hell the sound is comeing from. so any advice, or things to check would be great help, i have assembled many motors and this is the only one that ive had trouble with, and its getting under my skin.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Does the tapping increase with engine revs?
Is it a tiny like sound, or dull?
Have you used a stethescope of some kind of listening device to try to pinpoint it?
Did you check piston to sidewall clearance?
Is the tapping always there, or only when hot or cold?
Head milled?
Thin headgasket?
Valves correctly adjusted?
Does the tapping increase with engine revs?
Is it a tiny like sound, or dull?
Have you used a stethescope of some kind of listening device to try to pinpoint it?
Did you check piston to sidewall clearance?
Is the tapping always there, or only when hot or cold?
Head milled?
Thin headgasket?
Valves correctly adjusted?
01-13-2006, 04:32 PM
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-i was thinking valves but you cant hear it from the top, and i have already adjusted them to spec
-because i cant be in to places at once i have not been able to rev to see if the sound gets lounder or what.
it does it all the time, from what i can tell, but like i said i cant hear it inside the car, or standing up looking at the motor, only laying on the ground underneath it.
-it is not piston slap because the cylinders were bored to the size of the 9.7:1 cp's.
-the head has been milled i actually think its been milled for the last time, and the head gasket is a stock thickness golden eagle 84mm headgasket and the pistons do not come above the gasket.
-i am not worried about valve to piston contact, or valve to head contact. the compression #'s are 208'ish, 205, 205, and 208'ish again.
-no smoke from the exhaust, car idles pretty good - acts like it has a vacume leak, but i know where that would be coming from. the one time i drove it, i went about a mile or so then it acted like it was throwing a map sensor code (stock ecu for initail crank, and mini-me break in) because i would give it gas and it would just like almost stall out.
-the only codes that im throwing are like primary O2 and secondary O2 heater.
-i do have a stethescope but i didnt feel the need to pull it out because i can pretty much pin point the sound without one.
-because i cant be in to places at once i have not been able to rev to see if the sound gets lounder or what.
it does it all the time, from what i can tell, but like i said i cant hear it inside the car, or standing up looking at the motor, only laying on the ground underneath it.
-it is not piston slap because the cylinders were bored to the size of the 9.7:1 cp's.
-the head has been milled i actually think its been milled for the last time, and the head gasket is a stock thickness golden eagle 84mm headgasket and the pistons do not come above the gasket.
-i am not worried about valve to piston contact, or valve to head contact. the compression #'s are 208'ish, 205, 205, and 208'ish again.
-no smoke from the exhaust, car idles pretty good - acts like it has a vacume leak, but i know where that would be coming from. the one time i drove it, i went about a mile or so then it acted like it was throwing a map sensor code (stock ecu for initail crank, and mini-me break in) because i would give it gas and it would just like almost stall out.
-the only codes that im throwing are like primary O2 and secondary O2 heater.
-i do have a stethescope but i didnt feel the need to pull it out because i can pretty much pin point the sound without one.
01-13-2006, 05:23 PM
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Re: Damnit, the tapping noise (turbodohcsi)
Is this a bogus thread? Why would you take your motor apart every time you hear a noise? I did'nt even get half way through the paragraph before writing this, I'm amazed. Twice you took it apart!?! Did you think of tying to figure out the problem before taking it apart? Wow, you know if you engine is knocking it may need to be tuned? 
lots of possibilities, but stop taking it apart and try to figure it out first! 
lots of possibilities, but stop taking it apart and try to figure it out first!
01-13-2006, 05:35 PM
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Re: Damnit, the tapping noise (turbodohcsi)
sorry bro, I'm not trying to be rude. my best guess would have been the piston slap or valves. maby you should check for something around the timing belt. or just somthing loose around the engine bay. looks like you covered a lot af bases already.
01-13-2006, 05:53 PM
#7
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Re: (turbodohcsi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbodohcsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-i was thinking valves but you cant hear it from the top, and i have already adjusted them to spec
-because i cant be in to places at once i have not been able to rev to see if the sound gets lounder or what.
it does it all the time, from what i can tell, but like i said i cant hear it inside the car, or standing up looking at the motor, only laying on the ground underneath it.
-it is not piston slap because the cylinders were bored to the size of the 9.7:1 cp's.
-the head has been milled i actually think its been milled for the last time, and the head gasket is a stock thickness golden eagle 84mm headgasket and the pistons do not come above the gasket.
-i am not worried about valve to piston contact, or valve to head contact. the compression #'s are 208'ish, 205, 205, and 208'ish again.
-no smoke from the exhaust, car idles pretty good - acts like it has a vacume leak, but i know where that would be coming from. the one time i drove it, i went about a mile or so then it acted like it was throwing a map sensor code (stock ecu for initail crank, and mini-me break in) because i would give it gas and it would just like almost stall out.
-the only codes that im throwing are like primary O2 and secondary O2 heater.
-i do have a stethescope but i didnt feel the need to pull it out because i can pretty much pin point the sound without one. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I would reccomend you have someone rev the engine lightly while you are underneath to further narrow down the possabilities.
Aftermarket pistons are notorious for slapping due to higher silicone content. You could very well be hearing this sound. I have personally never run CP's, so I can't speak for them. JE's and SRP's both slap, and those I HAVE personall heard.
More details on the build please. You mentioned mini me, and you also mentioned 84mm. Details, please
-because i cant be in to places at once i have not been able to rev to see if the sound gets lounder or what.
it does it all the time, from what i can tell, but like i said i cant hear it inside the car, or standing up looking at the motor, only laying on the ground underneath it.
-it is not piston slap because the cylinders were bored to the size of the 9.7:1 cp's.
-the head has been milled i actually think its been milled for the last time, and the head gasket is a stock thickness golden eagle 84mm headgasket and the pistons do not come above the gasket.
-i am not worried about valve to piston contact, or valve to head contact. the compression #'s are 208'ish, 205, 205, and 208'ish again.
-no smoke from the exhaust, car idles pretty good - acts like it has a vacume leak, but i know where that would be coming from. the one time i drove it, i went about a mile or so then it acted like it was throwing a map sensor code (stock ecu for initail crank, and mini-me break in) because i would give it gas and it would just like almost stall out.
-the only codes that im throwing are like primary O2 and secondary O2 heater.
-i do have a stethescope but i didnt feel the need to pull it out because i can pretty much pin point the sound without one. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I would reccomend you have someone rev the engine lightly while you are underneath to further narrow down the possabilities.
Aftermarket pistons are notorious for slapping due to higher silicone content. You could very well be hearing this sound. I have personally never run CP's, so I can't speak for them. JE's and SRP's both slap, and those I HAVE personall heard.
More details on the build please. You mentioned mini me, and you also mentioned 84mm. Details, please
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01-13-2006, 08:49 PM
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"Is this a bogus thread? Why would you take your motor apart every time you hear a noise? I did'nt even get half way through the paragraph before writing this, I'm amazed. Twice you took it apart!?! Did you think of tying to figure out the problem before taking it apart? Wow, you know if you engine is knocking it may need to be tuned? lots of possibilities, but stop taking it apart and try to figure it out first! "
-i did try figuring it out first, and thats why i decided to take an hour or two and break the motor down just to be safe. the first time finding the f'd up main bearing, and the second time, not finding anything. and no this wasnt done in just one weekend, cause im just now recovering from having my tonsils out. and besides like i already said, im a paranoid engine builder.
-and as for being piston slap, i have also ran srp's and wisecos in other motors so im pretty sure i know piston slap when i hear it, and besides piston slap goes away when the motor is warm, this doesnt.
-and i dont need to check by the timing belt cause i can hear it clear as day right beside the transmission, but when the clutch is pressed in the sound does not change (already checked that)
-when i said mini-me, i just meant the type of break in that i perform on motors when done with them. but the setup (which is why im paranoid and trying to prevent stuff from getting worse) is:
block:
84mm darton sleeved b18c1
9.7:1 cp pistons
eagle rods
golden eagle h.g.
lightend/micropolished crank
complete rotating assembly balance
head:
1mm oversized intake ferrea valves
.5mm oversized exhaust ferrea valves
skunk2 pro series springs and retainers
ferrea bronze valve guides
ferrea valve seals
new valve seats
3angle
a little combustion chamber work
and i think thats about it for the head
j.g. intake manifold with phenolic insert
turbo kit:
nuekin ramhorn
nuekin a/c compatible 3" downpipe
tial 44mm wastegate
t3/t67 h.o.
3" exhaust, no resonator, magnaflow muffler
golden eagle oil filter adapter
hks ssq bov
greddy large intercooler
other crap:
complete msd igntion
precision 1000cc injectors
aem ems
aem uego
and i maybe be leaving out some stuff, but yall get the idea
oh yeah, all this is in a 2000 Si, and i can still legally pass emissions and i retain a/c and p/s.
-i did try figuring it out first, and thats why i decided to take an hour or two and break the motor down just to be safe. the first time finding the f'd up main bearing, and the second time, not finding anything. and no this wasnt done in just one weekend, cause im just now recovering from having my tonsils out. and besides like i already said, im a paranoid engine builder.
-and as for being piston slap, i have also ran srp's and wisecos in other motors so im pretty sure i know piston slap when i hear it, and besides piston slap goes away when the motor is warm, this doesnt.
-and i dont need to check by the timing belt cause i can hear it clear as day right beside the transmission, but when the clutch is pressed in the sound does not change (already checked that)
-when i said mini-me, i just meant the type of break in that i perform on motors when done with them. but the setup (which is why im paranoid and trying to prevent stuff from getting worse) is:
block:
84mm darton sleeved b18c1
9.7:1 cp pistons
eagle rods
golden eagle h.g.
lightend/micropolished crank
complete rotating assembly balance
head:
1mm oversized intake ferrea valves
.5mm oversized exhaust ferrea valves
skunk2 pro series springs and retainers
ferrea bronze valve guides
ferrea valve seals
new valve seats
3angle
a little combustion chamber work
and i think thats about it for the head
j.g. intake manifold with phenolic insert
turbo kit:
nuekin ramhorn
nuekin a/c compatible 3" downpipe
tial 44mm wastegate
t3/t67 h.o.
3" exhaust, no resonator, magnaflow muffler
golden eagle oil filter adapter
hks ssq bov
greddy large intercooler
other crap:
complete msd igntion
precision 1000cc injectors
aem ems
aem uego
and i maybe be leaving out some stuff, but yall get the idea
oh yeah, all this is in a 2000 Si, and i can still legally pass emissions and i retain a/c and p/s.
01-14-2006, 11:48 AM
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Re: (94whtgsr)
and why wouldnt i? the stock ecu is setup to run slightly richer settings then the motor needs, and with my mods, it probably just made the a/f ration a lil more stable, until it threw the code for the 2 O2 sensors... then it just skipped over to its pre-programmed map and made me run even more rich. so that leaves the only way for my motor to be damaged is by boost, well i dont know if you personally have one, but it is very easy to keep a t3/t67 h.o. from boost when driving like a granny. and besides i like to know if there is any problems or codes being thrown and the stock ecu always makes that easier to find out. and once again, where i live emission are pretty strict, there is no way i could of passed without my stock ecu able to run my car (oh yeah, and i only have 310's running off the stock ecu).
01-14-2006, 03:57 PM
#12
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Re: (turbodohcsi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbodohcsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and why wouldnt i? the stock ecu is setup to run slightly richer settings then the motor needs, and with my mods, it probably just made the a/f ration a lil more stable, until it threw the code for the 2 O2 sensors... then it just skipped over to its pre-programmed map and made me run even more rich. so that leaves the only way for my motor to be damaged is by boost, well i dont know if you personally have one, but it is very easy to keep a t3/t67 h.o. from boost when driving like a granny. and besides i like to know if there is any problems or codes being thrown and the stock ecu always makes that easier to find out. and once again, where i live emission are pretty strict, there is no way i could of passed without my stock ecu able to run my car (oh yeah, and i only have 310's running off the stock ecu).</TD></TR></TABLE>
1). Running 310's on the stock ECU will make the engine run RICH. Running overly rich on a new engine is not a good thing. Washing the cylinder walls with fuel will not allow those rings to seat correctly and you will need to start from scratch. So you were incorrect about the "only way" the motor could be damaged as being from boost.
2). Anyone who is worth a damn when it comes to building an engine would have that thing on a wideband when they first fired it and certainly before it was driven even at 1% throttle for that matter.
3). Just because you have a "chipped" ECU doesn't mean its not going to throw certain codes. The program I am using has everythign a stock ECU has enabled and will throw the EXACT same codes (if it had a problem) that a stock ECU would. Just because you have a stock ECU doesn't mean your more likley to find an issue
4). I might agree with you on the emissions garbage, but I honestly don't think you have it ANYWHERE as bad as we do in California, and I can pass just fine with my chipped ECU. Yeah, I even told the smog guy about it. They don't care. If its the right ECU, your in the clear. Chipped or not, they could care less. The numbers best line up though. Considering you are running a stock ECU on 310's I would say your HC would be VERY high. Tunning it and getting it set correctly would only help emissions, not hurt them.
5). What you need to do is remove the oil pan and rotate the crank by hand. Shake things around (rods, etc), look for wear. If something it hitting, you should be able to see it. It shouldn't take much. People can sit here and give you ideas after ideas, but its ultimately up to YOU to do the investigation.
1). Running 310's on the stock ECU will make the engine run RICH. Running overly rich on a new engine is not a good thing. Washing the cylinder walls with fuel will not allow those rings to seat correctly and you will need to start from scratch. So you were incorrect about the "only way" the motor could be damaged as being from boost.
2). Anyone who is worth a damn when it comes to building an engine would have that thing on a wideband when they first fired it and certainly before it was driven even at 1% throttle for that matter.
3). Just because you have a "chipped" ECU doesn't mean its not going to throw certain codes. The program I am using has everythign a stock ECU has enabled and will throw the EXACT same codes (if it had a problem) that a stock ECU would. Just because you have a stock ECU doesn't mean your more likley to find an issue
4). I might agree with you on the emissions garbage, but I honestly don't think you have it ANYWHERE as bad as we do in California, and I can pass just fine with my chipped ECU. Yeah, I even told the smog guy about it. They don't care. If its the right ECU, your in the clear. Chipped or not, they could care less. The numbers best line up though. Considering you are running a stock ECU on 310's I would say your HC would be VERY high. Tunning it and getting it set correctly would only help emissions, not hurt them.
5). What you need to do is remove the oil pan and rotate the crank by hand. Shake things around (rods, etc), look for wear. If something it hitting, you should be able to see it. It shouldn't take much. People can sit here and give you ideas after ideas, but its ultimately up to YOU to do the investigation.
01-14-2006, 04:14 PM
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i have done the investigation, thats is why i am looking for more ideas. i mean i just reassembled the motor a day or so ago, checking the main and rod bearings, and checking for clearence with the oil squirters, making sure that the windage tray was tight, etc.
-and i honestly dont really know if i believe in washing the cylinders out, i have never had it happen, i dont know anyone personally that has had it happen, and i believe my compression numbers proved that i avoided it once again.
-and i didnt catch if your car was obd2 or 1, but with my car i have to have the ecu scan done, i cant have the sniffer test done. if i could get the sniffer done then i woulda just got tested with the aem and the uego hooked up. but on a side note i had also ran the motor with the uego, and a slight tuning job, and kept an eye on real time readings and they were pretty damn perfect. so i guess you could say i broke it in on the aem, and hooked the stock ecu up to help diagnose.
-and i honestly dont really know if i believe in washing the cylinders out, i have never had it happen, i dont know anyone personally that has had it happen, and i believe my compression numbers proved that i avoided it once again.
-and i didnt catch if your car was obd2 or 1, but with my car i have to have the ecu scan done, i cant have the sniffer test done. if i could get the sniffer done then i woulda just got tested with the aem and the uego hooked up. but on a side note i had also ran the motor with the uego, and a slight tuning job, and kept an eye on real time readings and they were pretty damn perfect. so i guess you could say i broke it in on the aem, and hooked the stock ecu up to help diagnose.
01-14-2006, 04:38 PM
#14
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Re: (turbodohcsi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbodohcsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have done the investigation, thats is why i am looking for more ideas. i mean i just reassembled the motor a day or so ago, checking the main and rod bearings, and checking for clearence with the oil squirters, making sure that the windage tray was tight, etc.
-and i honestly dont really know if i believe in washing the cylinders out, i have never had it happen, i dont know anyone personally that has had it happen, and i believe my compression numbers proved that i avoided it once again.
-and i didnt catch if your car was obd2 or 1, but with my car i have to have the ecu scan done, i cant have the sniffer test done. if i could get the sniffer done then i woulda just got tested with the aem and the uego hooked up. but on a side note i had also ran the motor with the uego, and a slight tuning job, and kept an eye on real time readings and they were pretty damn perfect. so i guess you could say i broke it in on the aem, and hooked the stock ecu up to help diagnose.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then if you already had it apart and reassembled it, whats the problem? Perhaps you are overly concerned about something so small? You said you took it all apart, inspected EVERYTHING and found nothing wrong. Its a noise you only hear if you are under the car and no time else. Its just a clicking sound, could it be the exhaust? I mean, I honestly don't know what else to advise you of. Sorry.
-and i honestly dont really know if i believe in washing the cylinders out, i have never had it happen, i dont know anyone personally that has had it happen, and i believe my compression numbers proved that i avoided it once again.
-and i didnt catch if your car was obd2 or 1, but with my car i have to have the ecu scan done, i cant have the sniffer test done. if i could get the sniffer done then i woulda just got tested with the aem and the uego hooked up. but on a side note i had also ran the motor with the uego, and a slight tuning job, and kept an eye on real time readings and they were pretty damn perfect. so i guess you could say i broke it in on the aem, and hooked the stock ecu up to help diagnose.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then if you already had it apart and reassembled it, whats the problem? Perhaps you are overly concerned about something so small? You said you took it all apart, inspected EVERYTHING and found nothing wrong. Its a noise you only hear if you are under the car and no time else. Its just a clicking sound, could it be the exhaust? I mean, I honestly don't know what else to advise you of. Sorry.
01-14-2006, 04:46 PM
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thanks for your help man, and im sorry if i seem like im getting rude at any point in time, im just really frustrated. and i thought about the exhaust, so i took a pry bar and pryed it away from everything and it kept doing it. so im just out of ideas myself, and i was just hoping for more. but thanks for your help so far.
01-14-2006, 05:02 PM
#17
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Re: (turbodohcsi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbodohcsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there something like that in the transmission that could make the tapping sound? flywheel, clutch, pp?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, certainly. Using the stethascope, can you hear anything in the tranny or the bellhousing area? If somoene pushes on the clutch, does the noise go away?
Yes, certainly. Using the stethascope, can you hear anything in the tranny or the bellhousing area? If somoene pushes on the clutch, does the noise go away?
01-14-2006, 05:03 PM
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-no i do not hear anything with the stephescope, not even the tapping sound.... anywhere.
ok, i may have a new break through. i have an oil leak, and i couldnt hear the sound when the oil didnt leak, but when the motor was revved (sound went away) and the oil started leaking, here came the tapping. so im think since the oil escapes from the motor that im loosing pressure and its causing it to knock a little? good theory? also looking for other theories still. ps the oil leak is coming from the oil pump area, its either a bad gasket or possibly come from in between the oil pump and the block, but the sound is on the other side of the motor, next to the flywheel
Modified by turbodohcsi at 4:32 AM 1/15/2006
ok, i may have a new break through. i have an oil leak, and i couldnt hear the sound when the oil didnt leak, but when the motor was revved (sound went away) and the oil started leaking, here came the tapping. so im think since the oil escapes from the motor that im loosing pressure and its causing it to knock a little? good theory? also looking for other theories still. ps the oil leak is coming from the oil pump area, its either a bad gasket or possibly come from in between the oil pump and the block, but the sound is on the other side of the motor, next to the flywheel
Modified by turbodohcsi at 4:32 AM 1/15/2006
01-14-2006, 08:22 PM
#19
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Re: (turbodohcsi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbodohcsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-no i do not hear anything with the stephescope, not even the tapping sound.... anywhere.
ok, i may have a new break through. i have an oil leak, and i couldnt hear the sound when the oil didnt leak, but when the motor was revved (sound went away) and the oil started leaking, here came the tapping. so im think since the oil escapes from the motor that im loosing pressure and its causing it to knock a little? good theory? also looking for other theories still. ps the oil leak is coming from the oil pump area, its either a bad gasket or possibly come from in between the oil pump and the block, but the sound is on the other side of the motor, next to the flywheel
Modified by turbodohcsi at 4:32 AM 1/15/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
It would have to be one MEAN oil leak to cause your oil pressure to drop like that. Also, THAT much of a loss of pressure would cause some knocking all over, not just in one isolated area...
ok, i may have a new break through. i have an oil leak, and i couldnt hear the sound when the oil didnt leak, but when the motor was revved (sound went away) and the oil started leaking, here came the tapping. so im think since the oil escapes from the motor that im loosing pressure and its causing it to knock a little? good theory? also looking for other theories still. ps the oil leak is coming from the oil pump area, its either a bad gasket or possibly come from in between the oil pump and the block, but the sound is on the other side of the motor, next to the flywheel
Modified by turbodohcsi at 4:32 AM 1/15/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
It would have to be one MEAN oil leak to cause your oil pressure to drop like that. Also, THAT much of a loss of pressure would cause some knocking all over, not just in one isolated area...
01-14-2006, 08:30 PM
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Re: (Hybrid93Eg)
very good point, and since my oil pressure guage still reads really good numbers i guess that was a bad thought.... damnit, back to the drawing board.
01-15-2006, 09:55 AM
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Re: (Bailhatch)
seei thought about the flywheel dust sheild, and ive got all the bolts in it, and they are tight, and i dont think its my exhaust cause it really only sounds like it coming from one cylinder, its like tap..... tap..... tap...... tap, not like taptaptaptaptap. im kinda worried (because my machine shop is starting to dissapoint me) that they may have not put one of the wrist pin locks back into the correct spot, and that it may have came out and the tapping that i hear is actually the wrist pin grinding into the wall.
01-15-2006, 11:03 AM
#23
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Re: (turbodohcsi)
The flywheel has no dust shield, its an inspection cover. I thought you took the whole thing apart already in search of the noise? Wouldn't you have noticed the damage to the walls at that time?
01-17-2006, 10:36 AM
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Re: (turbodohcsi)
uh, exactly how loud is the tapping. Could it be a hose or oil line or maybe the turbo might be out of balance. or maybe a lost motion assembly. Although you said it was under, not in the head.........hmmm......scrap that one. I had forgoten to put that washer which holds the timing belt in place on the main pulley once and got a tapping sound. I new what it was right away and turned off the motor. maybe there is something which is warped just enough to cause this sound. Just some ideas.
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