burping in my overflow bottle..Blown HG?
#1
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burping in my overflow bottle..Blown HG?
After boosting a lot, my overflow bottle seems to "burp" air out of the RAD. is this a sign of boost seeping into the coolant?
no milk in the oil yet tho.
no milk in the oil yet tho.
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Re: burping in my overflow bottle..Blown HG? (Turbo E 604)
could be...or there could just be air in the coolent system (not from the headgastket leaking)...ide bleed the cooling system first...and try running a compression check if you are worried about it
#4
Re: burping in my overflow bottle..Blown HG? (gritsak)
me2. Had/still having this problem. Torqued arps 85lbs & it helped out a lil' but, i'm still pouring coolant in2 overflow bottle.
#5
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Re: burping in my overflow bottle..Blown HG? (Turbo E 604)
I have blown a headgasket in the passed and suffered the SAME problems you are describing.
It is either:
1) There is air in your coolant system and it needs to be bled out (as mentioned before).
2) Your head studs are backing out
3) Blown head gasket.
You should also check your radiator while at idle for TINY TINY bubbles arising to the fluids surface. Keep in mind compression tests are misleading and cylinder leakdown tests can also be misleading from time to time. Most likely if you are overfilling your reservoir ONLY under heavy load, then it's time to yank your head before more damage occurs. More damage can consist of toasted pistons due to running lean with the addition of coolant into the combustion chamber.
Are you overheating as well when you take the motor into boost?
It is either:
1) There is air in your coolant system and it needs to be bled out (as mentioned before).
2) Your head studs are backing out
3) Blown head gasket.
You should also check your radiator while at idle for TINY TINY bubbles arising to the fluids surface. Keep in mind compression tests are misleading and cylinder leakdown tests can also be misleading from time to time. Most likely if you are overfilling your reservoir ONLY under heavy load, then it's time to yank your head before more damage occurs. More damage can consist of toasted pistons due to running lean with the addition of coolant into the combustion chamber.
Are you overheating as well when you take the motor into boost?
#6
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no overhaeating at all. the thing will make a "glunk" noise, like a water cooler, then its kind quiet and "glunk" again. not all the time tho.
also i'm not losing any coolant either.
also i'm not losing any coolant either.
#7
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Re: (Turbo E 604)
It is possible you have too much fluid in your radiator. I would do the following since you are not overheating:
Remove radiator cap
Let car run until fans kick on twice
install radiator cap
bleed coolant for any air at thermostat housing
The reservoir is there to catch any excess fluid and will also suck the fluid back into system when needed. It works as a vacuum..... read below, I don't feel like typing this process out. I would say you are ok but if the reservoir is filling up over capacity and leaking coolant, then you have a problem.
Ok here is some more info from how things work.com
Pressure Cap
The radiator cap actually increases the boiling point of your coolant by about 45 F (25 C). How does this simple cap do this? The same way a pressure cooker increases the boiling temperature of water. The cap is actually a pressure release valve, and on cars it is usually set to 15 psi. The boiling point of water increases when the water is placed under pressure.
Cutaway of radiator cap and reservoir
When the fluid in the cooling system heats up, it expands, causing the pressure to build up. The cap is the only place where this pressure can escape, so the setting of the spring on the cap determines the maximum pressure in the cooling system. When the pressure reaches 15 psi, the pressure pushes the valve open, allowing coolant to escape from the cooling system. This coolant flows through the overflow tube into the bottom of the overflow tank. This arrangement keeps air out of the system. When the radiator cools back down, a vacuum is created in the cooling system that pulls open another spring loaded valve, sucking water back in from the bottom of the overflow tank to replace the water that was expelled.
Remove radiator cap
Let car run until fans kick on twice
install radiator cap
bleed coolant for any air at thermostat housing
The reservoir is there to catch any excess fluid and will also suck the fluid back into system when needed. It works as a vacuum..... read below, I don't feel like typing this process out. I would say you are ok but if the reservoir is filling up over capacity and leaking coolant, then you have a problem.
Ok here is some more info from how things work.com
Pressure Cap
The radiator cap actually increases the boiling point of your coolant by about 45 F (25 C). How does this simple cap do this? The same way a pressure cooker increases the boiling temperature of water. The cap is actually a pressure release valve, and on cars it is usually set to 15 psi. The boiling point of water increases when the water is placed under pressure.
Cutaway of radiator cap and reservoir
When the fluid in the cooling system heats up, it expands, causing the pressure to build up. The cap is the only place where this pressure can escape, so the setting of the spring on the cap determines the maximum pressure in the cooling system. When the pressure reaches 15 psi, the pressure pushes the valve open, allowing coolant to escape from the cooling system. This coolant flows through the overflow tube into the bottom of the overflow tank. This arrangement keeps air out of the system. When the radiator cools back down, a vacuum is created in the cooling system that pulls open another spring loaded valve, sucking water back in from the bottom of the overflow tank to replace the water that was expelled.
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#8
Re: burping in my overflow bottle..Blown HG? (Mulan)
Removed my plugs earlier & found coolant sitting top of 2nd & 3rd cyclinder. Blown HG i dunno, How can u tell a blown head gasket? It's already off, think i jus change it 4a piece of mind.
QUESTION: Should i go back with the same mr.gasket mls (i already have 1) or should i hit up the H dealership 4a stockie?
Also, 3 of my arps did start backing out of block could b d`culprit .
Check those studs ladies & gentlemen.
YO PrecisionH23a thanks 4tha advice man
Please excuse the thread jack Turbo E 604 Best of luck on finding out your overflow problem.
BIGup Honda-Tech
Modified by Mulan at 9:30 AM 4/6/2004
QUESTION: Should i go back with the same mr.gasket mls (i already have 1) or should i hit up the H dealership 4a stockie?
Also, 3 of my arps did start backing out of block could b d`culprit .
Check those studs ladies & gentlemen.
YO PrecisionH23a thanks 4tha advice man
Please excuse the thread jack Turbo E 604 Best of luck on finding out your overflow problem.
BIGup Honda-Tech
Modified by Mulan at 9:30 AM 4/6/2004
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Re: burping in my overflow bottle..Blown HG? (Mulan)
I would go with an OEM headgasket.
As far as your ARP studs, make sure you insteall them WITH the moly lube. I would also torque EACH stud into the block at 10ft*lbs. Then, install the moly lube for the top bolts and torque them in the necessary 3 stage torque.
As far as your ARP studs, make sure you insteall them WITH the moly lube. I would also torque EACH stud into the block at 10ft*lbs. Then, install the moly lube for the top bolts and torque them in the necessary 3 stage torque.
#11
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Re: burping in my overflow bottle..Blown HG? (PrecisionH23a)
yes OEM is the best headgasket IMO! i would go with AEBS studs i like their design better not saying ARP is inferior i just prefer to use AEBS
#12
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Re: burping in my overflow bottle..Blown HG? (Turbo E 604)
The headgasket might be leaking under boost, pushing pressure into the coolant resivour.
drive around for a while without boosting and see if you still have the overflow issue.
drive around for a while without boosting and see if you still have the overflow issue.
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