Just looking to see what can take a beating and not give many problems. Right now my setup is just a stock GSR motor and trans, turbocharged. Basically needing some help for what can handle 400whp and hard launches with slicks at the track?

Clutch?
Axles?
Transmission upgrades?
etc?

 

I'd say its always best to go overkill. Stage 5 or 6 DSS axles, high end multi-disc clutch, quaife diff, liberty gearset?

 

unnecessary. stock axles or dss stage 3;s
exedy twin disk is overkill but good.
quaife would be great for traction
stock gears

 

liberty gearset?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by locash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd say its always best to go overkill. Stage 5 or 6 DSS axles, high end multi-disc clutch, quaife diff, liberty gearset? </TD></TR></TABLE>

haha yea that'd be nice if you are working with an unlimited budget. 90% of people have a budget and that's WAY overkill for 400.

Clutch: Stage 3 will be plenty
Axles: Stock is fine, but DSS stage 3's would be more than enough
Diff: Quaife is un-needed unless you want more traction
Gearset? : Stock. If you destroy stock gears then it's not the gears fault. You're not driving right and that's the problem.

Sure I'd say get the best of the best if you want but that's just a lot of wasted money. Like, why spend 1700 for stage 5 axles that hold 800hp when you are only using 400? You can break stage 5's just as easy as stock if they are installed wrong or other stuff. Same with the clutch, why spend $1200 for a 700hp clutch when you're only using 400? Diff, why spend $900 on a diff when all it does it help give you more traction.


Modified by AF-P Dunc at 10:41 PM 4/30/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AF-P Dunc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Clutch: Stage 3 will be plenty
</TD></TR></TABLE>

What is the national standard for Stage 3?

 

National standard?? When I said stage 3, I was referring to an exedy simply because I had the stage 2 with 375whp/250wtq and it was fine.

 

nitro driveline !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AF-P Dunc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Diff: Quaife is un-needed unless you want more traction
Diff, why spend $900 on a diff when all it does it help give you more traction. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Uh, what?

Ever busted a open differential with 200whp? Many people have.

I dunno about you guys, but the last time I checked, 400whp front wheel drive hondas that make their peak power 6000-9000 aren't exactly the best thing for traction.


The very first thing you should do is get a quaife.
Bust axle, you replace the axle.
slipping clutch = don't get on it.
busted diff? = tranny go boom!

and then you'll be trying to sell your gsr gear stacks and then be tranny shopping.

 

clutchmasters stage 4
stock axles
obx lsd
410whp 283 tq

no problems here

 

A little applied pressure goes a long way. Why do you think domestics use trans brakes.

To keep them from snapping parts.


3.23 * 4.4 = me too lazy to calculate it, but it's something like 13.something


stock 170 hp times 13 = a lot (too lazy to calculate)

1st gear is a torque multiplier, add slicks and do several launches. See if you don't start snapping parts.

I can snap parts with a d15 + slicks.

brake boosting = differential killer

 

Brake boosting as in off the line or while rolling.

 

while rolling. that's why i say to get a lsd, cause it's stronger

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A little applied pressure goes a long way. Why do you think domestics use trans brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

To build a **** ton of boost on the line and launch much higher than you would be able to off the foot brake. Using a transbrake and having that vicious shock to your drivetrain is much, much harder on parts than footbraking it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Uh, what?

Ever busted a open differential with 200whp? Many people have.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, my open diff was perfectly fine at 375whp. Perhaps they weren't driving correctly? No part is going to like it when you dump the clutch haha.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I dunno about you guys, but the last time I checked, 400whp front wheel drive hondas that make their peak power 6000-9000 aren't exactly the best thing for traction.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Precisely, which that is what the quiafe would help haha.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AF-P Dunc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Diff: Quaife is un-needed unless you want more traction</TD></TR></TABLE>



This is so far from the truth...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">



This is so far from the truth...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha I'm glad everyone is picking that one comment out. So basically you're saying you have to have a quaife in order to get 400whp? That is what is far from the truth. Yes I agree they are stronger....but there main <U>function</U> is for traction.

 

Ok before I get flamed on again, let's take a look at what Quaife says on their website:

From what I read they talk about traction for 95% of the article and there are two lines describing strength.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quaife Website &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The Quaife torque biasing differential enables your car to accelerate quicker and corner faster. How?

By getting the power to the ground!

The Quaife Differential powers both drive wheels under nearly all conditions, instead of just one. With an ordinary open differential, standard on most cars, a lot of precious power is wasted during wheelspin under acceleration. This happens because the open differential shifts power to the wheel with less grip (along the path of least resistance). The Quaife, however, does just the opposite. It senses which wheel has the better grip, and biases the power to that wheel. It does this smoothly and constantly, and without ever completely removing power from the other wheel.

In drag-race style, straight-line acceleration runs, this results in a close to ideal 50/50 power split to both drive wheels, resulting in essentially twice the grip of an ordinary differential (they don't call open diffs "peglegs" for nothing).

In cornering, while accelerating out of a turn, the Quaife biases power to the outside wheel, reducing inside-wheel spin. This allows the driver to begin accelerating earlier, exiting the corner at a higher speed.

The Quaife also controls loss of traction when the front wheels are on slippery surfaces such as ice and snow or mud, providing the appropriate biased traction needed to overcome these adverse conditions. The Quaife Differential provides constant and infinitely variable drive. Power is transferred automatically without the use of normal friction pads or plates seen in other limited-slip designs.

The Quaife's unique design offers maximum traction, improves handling and steering, and puts the power where it is needed most. A definite advantage whether on the track or on the street.

The Quaife is extremely strong and durable and since the Quaife is gear operated, it has no plates or clutches that can wear out and need costly replacement.

The Quaife is great for street driving or racing. Racers don't have to put up with locking mechanisms or spools that created unwanted understeer under power, or in the case of front-drive cars, even tear the steering wheel out of their hands when cornering. Because it behaves like an open differential during ordinary driving, street drivers will have trouble telling it's there until pushing the car's limits.

The Quaife has been proven in everything from SCCA Rally to Formula 1. It provides autocrossers with such an advantage, it has become "required" equipment for a winning effort.

More and more auto manufacturers are specifying the Quaife ATB Differential as original equipment in their high performance models - for good reason - it works! </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

that's because everyone is tired of seeing half-*** broken setups.

400whp on the street without an LSD is pretty much worthless. Races from 90mph rolls = retarded.

 

i would not suggest anyone making 400whp to not get an lsd. quaife is super strong, lifetime warranty, will hook up big time, and will pull much straighter than open diff. i think its unsafe to make that much power open diff. u be sliding all over the streets

 

you need LSD, I dont have one, and I have aprox 400whp, on street tires (michellins) they can spin into 4th... I regret not buying a LSD before all this turbo ****. ALSO dont forget about good traction bars/suspention because that will save your drivetrain

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by N20civicB18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need LSD, I dont have one, and I have aprox 400whp, on street tires (michellins) they can spin into 4th... I regret not buying a LSD before all this turbo ****. ALSO dont forget about good traction bars/suspention because that will save your drivetrain</TD></TR></TABLE>

there ya go.

 

Have you also bought stickier tires?

 

im probably running close to 400 hp (so far just street tuned) and with an open diff, stock axles, Full race trac bars, and bfg g fore ta drag radials, my car handles great I start getting some wheel hop at the end of third and into forth, but i need balljoints, tie rods, and an alignment too

 

You don't HAVE to buy a Quaif... OBX is not that bad at all provided you properly disassemble and reassemble with better bolts before use.

I'm just saying that an LSD will easley knock 1/2 a second off your 1/4 mile time.
Its like a night and day comparison. A good clutch and LSD are the most important IMO.