Hello. Here is my set up. B18 gsr, 2.0l, crank, rods, sleeves,pistons, built head. Makes 637whp on a precision 5862 turbo at 28 psi. Tune on s300.

It has now been in the car for 3 years, and has had 2 headgaskets.



Anyway.
I am running temps of 250degrees as far as my gauge says. I am waiting to confirm it it that hot.

Aftermarket gauge that is hooked up to my upper radaitor hose by the head. Its reading 250degree pretty much all times.

Factory gauge reads normal.



My question is. Is these temps normal temps for coolant by the head? I know tgat should be the hottest temps, but 250?

 

Ok let's start with stop driving that caravan if your hitting temps that high. You r got major issues you should NOT be anywhere close to that temp. Generally a motor running that hot has issues

 

It's ran 250 since day one. For 3 years.

 

Can anyone confirm the temp of the upper radiator hose, with sleeves.

If it's a problem, I will start diagnosis.

 

I would say your gauge is wrong. My AEM Digital temp gauge reads from the factory spot on the head.

I drive the car here in Phx AZ and at a stop light it may get up to about 201 degrees.. Once the car is moving and driving around 193-197 degrees when it is 110 degrees outside.

If your car truly was 250 degrees for 3 years the motor would be done long ago. In a stock car if the Bezel Temp Gauge is sitting at the top at H that temp is around 230 and your car is completely overheating.

 

whats your engine management say

 

250 is the prime headgasket popping zone

A properly setup car should see coolant temps similar to every other Honda or be slightly elevated. What's killing you is the half core and nothing to divert air to the radiator. Seeing how you don't have ac, removing the condenser provided a large opening for air to bypass the radiator (path of least resistance) so a step in the right direction would be to take a sheet of plate aluminum and make a big air diverter to fit in place of the missing ac components. It should extend from the unibody of the right side of the opening all the way to the radiator, overlapping the front right edge of the radiator slightly (if looking st the car head on) it should also extend from the lower core support to the upper core support so that air has no place to go but through the radiator

Also, what temo thermostat are you using? You need at least something in the 160-180 range

Also what coolant? In warmer weather I always recommend water wetter(above freezing since water wetter has no freeze protection) and distilled water and in colder weather ethylene glycol and distilled water (if there is a chance of frost/cold weather or it's winter)

Secondary to that is what kind of fan? Cheap eBay slim fans have horrendous cfm ratings. A decent spal fan is what you need

Also what ems are you using? What are the fan on and fan off values? I suggest lowering fan on to 180-200 and fan off between 170-180 depending on how well and quick you can get temps to drop with the fan on

 

Thank you wantboost, ans az_civic. That is all i needed to know.

Az is your aftermarket gauge hooked up to the upper hose by the head?
My factory gauge reads not over heating.

Wantboost:
I want to say the gauge is bad, i am going to find someone with a lazer temp reader.

I like your air dam idea. I have spal fan, and oem honda coolant.



I dont understand which gauge is correct, or if the coolant in that area should be about that temp.

 

i have a similar water temp (ebay) set up like yours but it's closer to radiator. temp on gauge has been pretty close with temp reading on s300.

 

Ok, i found a buddy with a lazer temp reader. 250 on my gauge is 193 on the hose. Lol i was wondering why i wasnt throwing a code. :-)

Thread wasnt pointless. I plan to make ducting to my radaitor. After more research, i plan to make a fan shroud, and relay power the fan.

 

Yea I'd say your gauge is pretty fuckered lol